Buying guide: Pinotage and Pinotage blends

About the category: Pinotage, one of the trump cards of South African wine, owes its existence to Abraham Izak Perold. In 1925, the professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University crossed the varieties Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (also called Hermitage, as Cinsaut was then known in the Cape). This was in an effort to create a local variety with the best characteristics of its parents – the classic Pinot taste of Burgundy with the easy-to-grow, diseaseresistant qualities of Cinsaut. It took nearly two decades for that experiment to bear fruit, literally. It was in 1941 that the first experimental bottling of Pinotage occurred. Among other attributes of the new wine was the brilliant red colour produced, so unlike either lighter red parent.

 

The majority of the world’s plantings of Pinotage are found in South Africa where it makes up about 6.7% of the vineyard area. Pinotage is now planted throughout South Africa's recognised viticultural area. The result is wines that reflect the character of their terroir and highlight the diversity of SA's wine viticultural regions.

Pinotage is considered a symbol of SA’s distinctive winemaking traditions. There is a considerable bank of knowledge about how to grow Pinotage vines successfully and how to craft rich and rewarding wines from these grapes. The Pinotage Association (founded in 1995) has invested considerably in assisting to develop guidelines for viticultural and winemaking practices to assure quality improvement and consistency for the local and international market. A full range of styles is made, from easy-drinking quaffers to barrel-matured wines intended for cellaring.

Pinotage is South Africa's signature variety. It typically produces deep red varietal wines with opulent berry flavours and occasional notes of tropical fruit.

Characteristically, there is harmony between the fruit and wood and a classical balance on the palate between acid and tannins. Pinotage is very versatile and is frequently used in distinctive Cape blends.

Key findings: In this tasting, both Pinotage and Pinotage blends were assessed. The Pinotage category has shown growth, with the panel reviewing more than 150 submissions this year compared to 134 in 2010 and 95 in 2009. In addition, quality has improved, with an increased number of excellent wines identified among the entries. Five wines were awarded 4½ Stars and another 13 achieved 4 Stars. In addition, 58 wines were awarded 3 to 3½ Stars. There were few winemaking faults identified and there was a range of wines to suit every need: from superb-quality, age-worthy wines, to delightful early drinking, everyday wines at very good value. The Pinotage wines were well made and displayed a range of unique characteristics, delivering great fruit depth, elegance and finesse in the top tier.

In the Pinotage blend category, producers were invited to submit wines that contain a minimum of 30% Pinotage – the unofficial requirement for a Cape Blend. As with the Pinotage, quality has increased considerably. We evaluated 35 entries, resulting in two 4½ Stars and a further six 4 Star awards. The panel agreed that Pinotage brings a unique quality to blends, especially the concentrated berry flavours and tannin structure. Blends with Pinotage as a component can undoubtedly hold their own. Winemakers are using their blending skills to craft exciting wines with a Pinotage base. The number of wines made in an elegant, medium-bodied style is increasing, as found in this tasting. Is this blend South Africa’s international wine calling card?

PINOTAGE
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
River Grandeur 2009*
(Viljoensdrift)
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Alc 14.64% RS 3.6g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.53
Upfront black cherries, dark plums and chocolate on the nose. Palate oozes sweet dark fruit mingling with smooth oak tannin balanced by a refreshing acidity and a persistent savoury finish. Drink now – 2013.
DB 17 | WB 18 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 18

Spencer Bay 2008
(Namaqua Wines)
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Alc 14.1% RS 2.9g/l TA 6.3g/l pH 3.49
Milk chocolate, plums and walnut aromas on the nose. The palate zings with juicy ripe black cherries and plums. A firm tannin backing and a bright acidity. Savoury aftertaste. Drink now – 2014.
DB 18 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 18

Boland Cellar Reserve No 1 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R77
Alc 14.29% RS 2.3g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.89
Ripe plums and spicy oak on the nose. Full-bodied with mulberry, dark cherry and spice on the palate. Finely balanced with a fi rm tannin grip and smooth, savoury aftertaste. Drink now – 2013.
DB 17 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 17

Windmeul Reserve 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Alc 15.49% RS 2.8g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.45
Aromas of blackberry, plums and vanilla oak on the nose. The palate is broody and rich with sumptuous bright blueberry and plum fruit supported by balanced tannins and a fresh acidity. Drink now – 2014.
DB 17 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 17

Rijk's Reserve 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R190
Alc 15.24% RS 2.2g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.66
Mulberry, fynbos and a hint of dark chocolate on the nose. Elegant, juicy sweet fruit wrapped around a core of ripe, fi rm tannin. Never-ending savoury-sweet aftertaste. Drink now – 2016.
DB 17 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 17

★ ★ ★ ★
Allée Bleue Starlette 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R34
Alc 15.29% RS 1.8g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.88
Nose displays sweet plums and spice. Inviting juicy black berries and spice on the palate,  accessible tannins and a savoury moreish finish. For early enjoyment. Drink now – 2012.
DB 17 | WB 16 | CF 17 | WP 16 | CH 15

Windmeul Kelder 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R36
Alc 14.69% RS 1.9g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.45
Fynbos and ripe plums on the nose. Palate is juicy and sweet, balanced by a firm tannic grip and a lively acidity. Drink now – 2012.
DB 17 | WB 16 | CF 17 | WP 16 | CH 15

Meerkat 2009*
(Schalk Burger & Sons)
CELLAR PRICE: R40
Alc 14.45% RS 4.3g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.49
Violet, black cherry and vanilla on the nose. The palate abounds with flavours of ripe mulberry and savoury plums. Medium-bodied with well-structured tannins and a long aftertaste. Drink now – 2012.
DB 17 | WB 16 | CF 17 | WP 16 | CH 16

Neethlingshof 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R60
Alc 15.4% RS 2.9g/l TA 6.33g/l pH 3.25
Pure blackberry and spice on the nose. The palate is smooth and mellow with a lovely balanced melange of ripe plums, dark berries, chocolate and vanilla spice with a lifting, savoury finish. Drink now – 2013.
DB 16 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 16

The Very Posh Pinotage 2008
(Cloof)
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Alc 15.5% RS 4g/l TA 6.2g/l pH 3.74
Nose offers red cherry, fynbos and plum. Rich and robust on the palate with plum, cherry and raspberry fruit balanced by fi rm grippy tannins and a refreshing acidity. Drink now – 2013.
DB 17 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 15 | CH 16

Spencer Bay 2007
(Namaqua Wines)
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Alc 14.28% RS 2.6g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.61
Earthy, dark berries on the nose. The palate is rich with loads of sweet plums, robust oak flavours and a bright acidity. Medium-bodied with a savoury aftertaste. Drink now – 2013.
DB 16 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 16

Durbanville Hills
Rhinofields 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R116
Alc 14.67% RS 2.5g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.52
Deep ruby with ripe plums and violet aromas. Pure, juicy dark berry fruit on the palate with soft, integrated tannins and a lively finish. Drink now – 2013.
DB 18 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 16 | CH 15

Rijk's Private Cellar 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R130
Alc 14.78% RS 2.5g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.5
Deep ruby colour with dark fruit and vanilla on the nose. The palate seduces with rich plum compote, mulberry and balanced tannins and acidity. Smooth and rich finish. Drink now – 2013.
DB 16 | WB 17 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 16

Neethlingshof
The Short Story Collection
The Owl Post 2009
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R132.39
Alc 14.38% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.5g/l pH 3.7
Powerful blockbuster nose oozes ripe, sweet black fruit, oak, spice and leather with excellent balance and tannin integration. For the long haul. Drink 2012-2016.
DB 15 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 19

Spier Private Collection 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R148
Alc 14.56% RS 2.9g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.62
Lavender, plums, fynbos and mulberry on the nose. Full-bodied with rich berries balanced
by powerful tannins and acidity. Lingering savoury finish. Drink now – 2015.
DB 18 | WB 17 | CF 16 | WP 16 | CH 16

Pella Thomas Se Dolland 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R150
Alc 14.04% RS 2.8g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.57
Spicy plum compote and sweet vanilla on the nose. Full-bodied with luscious, dense dark berries and sweet spice mingling with supple tannins and a delicious acidity. Drink now – 2015.
DB 16 | WB 17 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 17

Bosman Family Vineyards 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Alc 14.27% RS 3.1g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.7
Plums, mulberry, vanilla and dark chocolate on the nose. Full-bodied with sweet, rich black fruit, firm, ripe tannins and a long savoury aftertaste. Drink now – 2016.
DB 18 | WB 16 | CF 15 | WP 16 | CH 17

Neil Ellis
Vineyard Selection 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R200
Alc 14.5% RS 1.69g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.61
Intense vibrant ruby with a highly perfumed nose of lavender, black cherry and fynbos. Firm, ripe tannins and a bright acidity round off this elegant wine. Lingering sweet spice aftertaste. Drink now – 2015.
DB 17 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 16 | CH 18

★ ★ ★ ✩
Fives Reserve 2010 (Van Loveren) R36.92
Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley) R42
Rooiberg Winery Reserve 2009 R59.50
Remhoogte 2009 R75
Jacksons Limited Release 2009 (Stanford Hills) R75
Boland Cellar Reserve No 1 2008 R77
Springfontein Terroir Selection 2007 R85
Kaapzicht 2008 R90
Warwick Old Bush Vines 2009* R95
Devon Heights 2007 (Waterstone Wines) R96.90
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2008 R125
Kanonkop Pinotage 2009 R139
Springfontein Jonathan's Ridge Single Vineyard 2008 R139
KWV Mentors 2009 R140
Lesebo 2008 (Spier) R149
Southern Right 2009 R150

★ ★ ★
Eagle's Cliff 2010* R30
Drostdy-Hof Winemakers Collection 2010 ARP R32
Tall Horse 2010 ARP R32
Welmoed 2010 R34
Horse Mountain 2010* R36.48
Jason's Hill 2009 R39
Simonsvlei Premier Selection 2009* R40
Broken Stone 2007 (Slaley) R47
StellenRust 2008 R50
Hartenberg 2007 R55
Nederburg The Winemaster's Reserve 2009 R57
Rhebokskloof Estate 2009 R62
Eikendal 2009 R65
Devon Rocks 2008 R70
Devon Rocks 2005 R70
Maison de Teijger 2008 R75
Fort Simon 2007 R75
Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2008 ARP R78.72
Slaley 2006 R79
Meerendal 2006 R80
Rijk's Touch of Oak 2009 R85
Signatures of Doolhof 2008 (Doolhof) R86
Simonsig Woolworths 2008 R89.95
Onderkloof Schapenberg Single Vineyard 2007 R90
Beaumont 2008 R95
Tukulu 2008 ARP R95.77
Diemersdal Reserve 2009 R96
Beyerskloof Reserve 2008 R100
Greywacke 2008 Cape Chamonix R100
Sumaridge 2008 R110
Sumaridge 2007 R110
Indalo 2008 R110
Allée Bleue 2008 R120
Wildekrans Barrel Select Osiris 2008 R125
Indalo 2007 (Swartland) R130
Rijk's Private Cellar 2007 R130
The Bernard Series Bush Vine Pinotage 2009 ARP R142
Scali 2006 R145
Simonsig Redhill 2008 R198
Tokara 2008 R220
L'Avenir Grand Vin 2007 R250
Lanzerac Pioneer 2008 R275

★ ★ ✩
Africa Five 2010 (Waterstone Wines) R29.70
Zidela 2008 R30
Simonsvlei Lifestyle 2009* R31
Bernheim's Casual Collection 2010 R31
Perdeberg 2010 R31.50
Du Toitskloof 2009 R33
Van Loveren African Java 2010 R35.33
Landskroon 2009 R42
Woolworths Reserve 2008 ARP R42.50
Golden Vine 2010 (Waterstone Wines) R45.90
Spier Signature 2009 R49
Hill and Dale 2009 ARP R49.71
Beyerskloof 2010 R50
Zonnebloem 2009 ARP R50
Pearlstone 2009* (Rhebokskloof) R52
Zevenwacht 2009 R56
Diemersdal 2009 R58
Simonsig 2008 R59
Villiera 2008 ARP R60
Neethlingshof 2006 ARP R65.34
Doolhof Dark Lady 2010 R70
Cloof 2008 R75
Boland Cappupinoccinotage 2010* R79
Slaley 2007 R80
Manley 2009 R85
Welbedacht 2008
(Schalk Burger & Sons) R95
Laibach 2008 R95
L'Avenir 2008 R100

★ ★
Greendale 2009* (Withington Wines) R28
Aan de Doorns 2010 R30
KWV 2010 R30
Bovlei 2009 R30
Riebeek Cellars Collection 2010 R31
Rooiberg Winery 2009 R34.50
Douglas Green 2009 ARP R40
Springfontein Red of Sopiensklip 2008 R42
Whalehaven 2009 R48
Badsberg Mocha Fusion 2010 R48
River Grandeur 2008 (Viljoensdrift Wines) R58
The Winery of Good Hope Bush Vine 2010* R59
Devon Rocks 2007 R65
Simonsvlei Ja-Mocha 2010 R70
Wildekrans 2008 R70
Jacobsdal 2008 ARP R70.46
Durbanville Hills 2007 R72
Diemersfontein 2010 R75
SAAM 2009 R79
Lanzerac 2009 R88
Mountain River 2009 R91.20
Marklew Cape Flora 2009 R95
Romond Rebus Single Vineyard Selected 2009 R110
Welgegund 2009 R125
Campagnies Wijn 2007 (Oude Compagnies Post) R125
Neethlingshof The Short Story Collection The Owl Post 2008 ARP R125
Beyerskloof Diesel 2008 R400

★
Swartland 2010* R36
Alvi's Drift 2010* R37
Hawksmoor at Matjieskuil 2006* R42
Boplaas 2008 R43
De Waal 2009 R59
Boplaas Family Reserve 2008 R75
Clos Malverne Le Café Basket Pressed 2010 R76
Marianne 2005 R96
Marianne 2004 R96
De Waal CT De Waal 2007 R129
Flagstone Writer's Block 2008 R195
De Waal Top of the Hill 2007 R239

PINOTAGE BLENDS
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
River Grandeur Cape Blend 2009* (Viljoensdrift)
CELLAR PRICE: R39.50
Alc 14.6% RS 3.5g/l TA 5.5g/l pH 3.4
66% Shiarz, 34% Pinotage. Leather, earth, violet and blackberry aromas. Full-bodied, ripe mulberry, spicy plums, rich vanilla on the palate supported by powerful tannins. A lingering savoury fi nish. Drink now – 2014.
DB 17 | WB 17 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 17

Kumkani Merlot Pinotage 2007* (the company of wine people)
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R49.99
Alc 14.5% RS 2.6g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.5
50% Pinotage, 50% Merlot. Mince pie, fynbos, cherry and smoke on the nose. Elegant with ripe red berry fruit, spicy vanilla, firm integrated tannins and superb balance. Drink now – 2014.
DB 18 | WB 16 | CF 17 | WP 16 | CH 18

★ ★ ★ ★
Beyerskloof Synergy Cape Blend 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R75
Alc 14.5% RS 1.6g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.7
45% Pinotage, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 11% Shiraz. Plums, hedgerow fruit and savoury spice on the nose. Generous fleshy black fruit and spice is reined in by firm, ripe tannins and a refreshing acidity. Drink now – 2016.
DB 16 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 17 | CH 18

Painted Wolf Guillermo 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R100
Alc 14.5% RS 2.6g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.5
90% Pinotage, 5% Shiraz, 3% Mourvèdre, 2% Grenache. Spice, black pepper and blackberry on the nose. The palate oozes dark berry fruit, chocolate and sweet vanilla spice. Juicy and fleshy with smooth tannins. Drink now – 2014.
DB 16 | WB 16 | CF 17 | WP 17 | CH 16

Bellingham St Georges Cape Blend 2006
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R102
Alc 14% RS 2.9g/l TA 6.3g/l pH 3.4
35% Pinotage, 25% Shiraz, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Nose offers spicy leather, hedgerow fruit and smoke. Spiced plum, mulberry, sweet oak. Elegant and understated with a smooth savoury conclusion. Drink now – 2015.
DB 18 | WB 16 | CF 16 | WP 16 | CH 16

Simonsig Frans Malan Cape Blend 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.5% RS 2.6g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.5
64% Pinotage, 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot. Sweet plum, cassis and vanilla spice on the nose. The palate shows plum and Christmas cake with bold tannins and a lifting acidity. Drink now – 2017.
DB 18 | WB 17 | CF 15 | WP 16 | CH 16

Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Merlot 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Alc 14.4% RS 2.2g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.8
48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Pinotage, 10% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot. Red and black berries with herb garden perfumes. Ripe fruit, plum pudding cloaked in well-judged oak, integrated tannins and a sweet-savoury fi nish. Drink now – 2014.
DB 15 | WB 15 | CF 15 | WP 17 | CH 18

Wildekrans Jake White Selection Limited Edition Cape Red 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R300
Alc 14.4% RS 3.3g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.6
50% Pinotage, 25% Shiraz, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. Perfumed nose of blueberry, fynbos, violets and leather. Full-bodied and mouthfi lling palate of black fruit compote with a savoury spice overlay, sweet balanced tannins and a lingering savoury aftertaste. Drink now – 2015.
DB 16 | WB 16 | CF 15 | WP 16 | CH 17

★ ★ ★ ✩
Lindsay's Whimsy Cape Blend 2007* (Slayley) R29
Tormentoso Bush Vine 2009* (MAN Vintners) R75
Altydgedacht Tintoretto 2009 R105
StellenRust Handmade JJ Picalot 2008 R105
Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2006 ARP R175.02

★ ★ ★
Du Toitskloof Cellar Pinotage, Merlot, Ruby Cabernet 2010* R27
Eagle's Cliff Shiraz, Pinotage 2008* R30
Balance Pinotage Shiraz 2009* (Overhex Wines International) ARP R31.95
MAN Vintners 2010* R45
Inkspot Vin Noir 2009* (Cloof) R45
Warwick Three Cape Ladies Cape Blend 2008 R105
Clos Malverne Reserve Basket Pressed 2009 R140
Idiom Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Cabernet Franc, Merlot 2007 R180
Kaapzicht Steytler Vision Cape Blend 2007 R250
Ashbourne 2007
(Hamilton Russell Vineyards) R395
Beyerskloof Faith 2008 R450

★ ★ ✩
Heron's Nest Cellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage 2009 (Clos Malverne) R20
Bellingham Pinotage with a dash of Petit Verdot 2009 ARP R46
Painted Wolf The Den 2010* R50
Alvi's Drift AD Drift Fusion 2008 R92
Welbedacht Hat Trick 2007 (Schalk Burger & Sons) R150

★ ★
Happy Dragon Pinotage, Shiraz 2010 (Cloof) R30
Dragonridge Jack's Red 2008 R55
Clos Malverne Auret Cape Blend 2009 R160

★
Bernheim's Casual Collection Red Select NV* R27
Conradie Family Vineyards Pinotage, Cabernet Sauvignon 2008* R40

PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap