Buying guide: Pinotage

Pinotage
audited ratings

About the category: This cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut (also called Hermitage, hence the contraction) was first engineered by Stellenbosch University's Professor Abraham Perold in 1925.

Perhaps the variety's greatest attribute is the depth of fruit it delivers, but it needs careful winemaking if rustic, inelegant wines are to be avoided.

In SA, Pinotage is the eighth most widely planted variety, making up 6% of the total area under vineyard at the end of 2008.

Key findings: The Pinotage category is growing, with the panel reviewing 134 submissions this year compared to 95 in 2009 and 87 in 2008.

It is encouraging that there are far less outright technical faults than in the past, but then there are still not as many wines of excellence as might be hoped for.

Over 50% of the line-up ended up in the 2- to 2½-Star bracket, wines that, while not unappealing, are ultimately rather basic and undemanding.

This is more or less the case with all categories but Pinotage's credentials as a source of superlative wine are not nearly as well established as those of Cabernet Sauvignon, for instance, and an increasing number of entrants to the market producing dead-ordinary stuff is not going to win over the variety's many sceptics.

Stylistically, there were a lot of big, sweet, easy wines (or beginner's red, if you will), of which the various examples of coffee Pinotage make up a sub-group.

The panel was asked to put all prejudices and preconceptions aside regarding such wines and to take each on its own merits. In this regard, it is interesting to note Boland Cappupinoccinotage 2009 being rated a very worthy 3½ Stars: oak-derived coffee and chocolate flavours can work, if combined with sufficient juicy fruit.

What constitutes really great, distinctive Pinotage? Among the top performers were a number of wines made in a full-bodied, seriously oaked style, such as the Laroche L'Avenir Grand Vin 2007, Beyerskloof Reserve 2007 and Kanonkop 2007.

These are what most wine enthusiasts probably consider as exemplifying quality Pinotage but there is another emerging style that should not be overlooked, where the wines are more medium bodied and Pinot Noir reminiscent.

These include wines such as Darling Cellars Onyx 2008, Stanford Hills Jacksons 2008, Springfontein Jonathan's Ridge 2008 and Southern Right 2009. They share finesse and elegance, but such wines are sadly few and far between.

Does the industry subscribe to this style or should we expect Pinotage always to be macho?

BEST VALUE - TOP 5 WINES ON PRICE
Wines rated 2½ Stars or better and recommended for particularly good value on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per bottle of the
134 wines assessed:
Name of wine Rating Price
1. Simonsvlei Lifestyle 2008 3½ Stars R29
2. Botha Kelder 2009 3 Stars R28
3. Van Loveren Five's Reserve 2008 3 Stars R29.30
4. Du Toitskloof 2008 3 Stars R31
5. Wamakersvallei Bain's Way 2008* 2½ Stars R27

ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR?
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 134 Pinotage wines assessed: R87
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 8 wines rated 4 to 4½ Stars: R138
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 37 wines rated 3 to 3½ Stars: R84
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 73 wines rated 2 to 2½ Stars: R81
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 16 wines rated less than 2 Stars: R93

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Darling Cellars Onyx 2008
CELLAR PRICE R74
Alc 14.8% RS 2.1g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.68
Complex nose showing cherry, floral fragrance
and an earthy note. The palate shows
juicy red fruit and vanilla upfront that give
way to a spicy, savoury finish. Drink now or
over the next three years.
CE 16 CA 17 HJ 17 FR 16.5 WB 18

Môreson 2008
CELLAR PRICE R135
Alc 14.5% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.67
Dark fruit, floral fragrance, fynbos and
coffee on the nose. The palate is full but
shows excellent structure with concentrated
fruit, well-judged oak and fresh acidity. Long
finish. Keep for one to three years.
CE 18 CA 18 HJ 16 FR 17.5 WB 19

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Diemersdal 2008
CELLAR PRICE R65
Alc 14% RS 2g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.6
Ripe plummy fruit on the nose and palate.
Soft, rounded tannins and fresh acidity.
Very approachable - drink now or over the
next two years.
CE 15 CA 17.5 HJ 16.5 FR 16.5 WB 15.5

Stanford Hills Jacksons 2008
CELLAR PRICE R75
Alc 14.5% RS 2.7g/l TA 4.95g/l pH 3.76
Complex nose showing dark berries, floral
fragrance and a leafy note. Palate is full but
elegant with pure dark fruit matched by fine
tannins and fresh acidity. Persistent finish.
Keep for one to three years.
CE 17 CA 15 HJ 16 FR 17 WB 16

Windmeul Reserve 2008
CELLAR PRICE R75
Alc 14.74% RS 3.9g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.62
Mélange of fruit and toasty oak on the nose.
The palate is rich and full with lots of sweet,
juicy fruit, firm tannins and fresh acidity.
Drink now or over the next three years.
CE 16 CA 16.5 HJ 15.5 FR 16.5 WB 17

Bosman Family Vineyards 2008
CELLAR PRICE R180
Alc 14.35% RS 3.3g/l TA 5.2g/l pH 3.63
Dark fruit, chocolate and oak spice on the
nose. Rich and full with sweet, clean fruit,
good tannic grip and bright acidity. Keep for
two to three years.
CE 16 CA 17.5 HJ 15.5 FR 16.5 WB 17.5

Lanzerac Pionier 2007
CELLAR PRICE R250
Alc 15% RS 2.49g/l TA 5.75g/l pH 3.63
Brooding nose showing dark berries and
attractive oak spice. The palate is rich and
full but balanced. Sweet, ripe fruit, firm
tannins and fresh acidity. Long, dry finish.
Keep for two years.
CE 16.5 CA 15.5 HJ 15.5 FR 16 WB 16.5

Laroche L'Avenir Grand Vin 2007
CELLAR PRICE R250
Alc 14% RS 4.4g/l TA 6.06g/l pH 3.45
Brooding nose showing dark fruit, spice and
smokiness. The palate is full but balanced
with optimally ripe dark fruit, fine tannins
and tangy acidity. Has good ageing potential
- keep for at least two more years.
CE 17 CA 15.5 HJ 15.5 FR 17 WB 17

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Simonsvlei Lifestyle 2008 R29
Boland Cappupinoccinotage 2009* R42.50
Spier Signature 2009 R44
Simonsig 2007 R55
Kumkani 2006* (the company of wine people) R63
Wildekrans 2008 R67
Jacobsdal 2007 ARP R70.46
Deetlefs 2007 R75
Spier Vintage Selection 2007 R75
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2008 ARP R82
Painted Wolf 2008 R89
Beyerskloof Reserve 2007 R100
Springfontein Jonathan's Ridge 2008 R129
Clos Malverne Reserve 2007 R140
Southern Right 2009 R150
Kanonkop 2007 R170

★ ★ ★ three stars
Botha Kelder 2009 R28
Van Loveren Five's Reserve 2008 R29.30
Du Toitskloof 2008 R31
Greendale 2009* ARP R35
Simonsvlei Premier Selection 2008* R37
Koelenbosch 2007 R40
Landskroon 2007 R40
Fantail 2008 (Morgenhof) R48
The Winery of Good Hope 2009* R49
Jonkheer 2008 R52
Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2008 R200
Eikendal 2008 R55
Riebeek Cellars Reserve 2008 R65
SAAM Mountain 2008* R70
Meerendal 2006 R77.50
Chamonix Greywacke 2007 R90
Warwick Old Bush Vines 2008* R95
Spier Private Collection 2007 R148
Simonsig Redhill 2007 R180
Simonsig Redhill 2008 R180
Flagstone Writer's Block 2008* R195
(Constellation Wines SA)

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Wamakersvallei Bain's Way 2008* R27
Perdeberg 2009* R28.50
Tall Horse 2009 (DGB) ARP R30
Swartland 2009* R31
Van Loveren 2008 R32.30
Africa Five 2006 (Waterstone Wines) ARP R34
Stellenrust 2009* R40
Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley) R42
Darling Cellars Old Blocks 2008 R43
Painted Wolf The Den Pinotage 2009* R48
Hill & Dale 2008 (Stellenzicht) ARP R49.71
Bovlei Centenary Collection 2008 R50.50
Backsberg 2008 R51
Zevenwacht 2008* R53
De Leuwen Jagt 2008 (Seidelberg) R53.50
Mooiplaas 2006 R55
Villiera 2007 R56.40
Viljoensdrift River Grandeur 2008 R58
Conradie Single Vineyard R60
Barrel Selection Reserve 2008
Indalo 2008 (Swartland Winery) R60
Durbanville Hills 2008 R67
Diemersfontein 2009 R69
Seidelberg 2008 R71
Welbedacht 2007 (Schalk Burger & Sons) R75
Fort Simon 2007 R76
Slaley 2007 R79
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2007 ARP R82
Kaapzicht 2007 R85
Delheim 2008 R89
Beaumont 2007 R95
Lanzerac 2008 R95
Deetlefs Oak Matured 2008 R110
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2008 R110
Groot Constantia 2007 R110
Laroche L'Avenir 2007 R120
Seidelberg Roland's Reserve 2007 R123
Rijk's 2006 R130
KWV The Mentors 2007 ARP R135
Welgegund 2009 R150
Bellingham Pinotage R160
with a dash of Petit Verdot 2008 (DGB) ARP
Tokara 2007 R190
DeWaal Top of the Hill 2005 R220

★ ★ two stars
Bakenskop 2009 R21
De Wet 2008* R28
Riebeek Cellars 2008* R30
Bovlei 2008 R30.50
Welmoed 2008 (the company of wine people) R33
Meerkat 2008* (Schalk Burger & Sons) R35
Douglas Green R40
Vineyard Creations 2009 (DGB) ARP
Stellendrift Kruispad 2005* R40
Broken Stone 2007 (Slaley) R42
Arniston Bay Reserve 2007* R46
(the company of wine people)
Hawksmoor at Matjieskuil
Lightly Oaked 2006* R50
Hartenberg 2005 R65
Hartenberg 2006 R65
Boplaas Family Reserve 2008 R68
Knorhoek 2008 R68
Devon Rocks 2007 R75
Stellenzicht R78.71
Golden Triangle 2007 ARP
Le Manoir de Brendel 2007 R79
Slaley 2006 R79
Signatures of Doolhof 2007 R80
Bilton 2008 R90
Laibach 2007 R95
Morkel 2008 (Bellevue) R100
Reyneke 2008 R100
Allée Bleue 2007 R120
Southern Right 2007 R150
Southern Right 2008 R150
Savanha African Anthology R185
Lesebo 2007 (Spier)
Rijk's Reserve 2006 R190
DeWaal Top of the Hill 2007 R220
Delheim R275
Bush Vine Barrel Selection 2007 (1.5l)
Montagu Wine & Spirit Co. 2008 R43.50
Bon Courage 2008 R50
Knorhoek 2007 R68
Hawksmoor at Matjieskuil R75
Vanburgh 2007*
Remhoogte 2008 R75
La Cave 2006 (Wamakersvallei) R80
Manley 2006 R80
Tukulu 2007 ARP R95.77
Devon Hill 2002 R161
Ashbourne 2005 R395
(Hamilton Russell Vineyards)

ALSO TASTED
Sizanani 2008* (Bellevue) R27
Neethlingshof 2005 ARP R65.38
Onderkloof 2004 R90
DeWaal CT De Waal 2007

PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated

ARP Approximate retail price
* Bottled under screwcap

WINE TASTERS: Christian Eedes(chair) (CE), Wine Judging Academy graduates Carrie Adams of retailer Norman Goodfellows (CA), Higgo Jacobs (HJ) and Francois Rautenbach of Singita Game Reserves (FR) and wine business consultant Wendy Burridge (WB).