Buying guide: Non-Bordeaux style red blends

Disappointing was the one word that summed up this tasting.

The judges, honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters and chairman of the panel Colin Frith, with Cape Wine Masters Allan Mullins, Dick Davidson, Jenny Ratcliffe and CWM student Dr Rolene Bauer, were expecting more bells and whistles.

After all, this is a category which had judges raving last year. In his post-tasting report, chairman of the 2004 panel Tony Mossop wrote that he felt Pinotage-based blends could be the best of the class.

Last year saw 110 wines tasted with seven (Shiraz-based) 4 Star wines, three (Pinotage-based) 4 Star wines and one "other" 4 Star - a total of 11 wines scoring 4 stars.

This year round there were five 4 Star wines and one 4½ Star out of 121 wines tasted (4,9% of all wines) - and these displayed a definite Shiraz bias, with just one, the Kaapzicht Steytler Vision 2002, containing any Pinotage.

Other than Shiraz and Pinotage, some of the grapes used for these blends included Grenache, Mourvèdre, Touriga Nacional, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Barbera ... to mention just a few.

The wine with most varieties in the mix was Akkerdal Wild Boar, which got 3½ Stars for its Malbec, Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo, Barbera, Roobernet, Cabernet Franc and Pinotage blend. How's that for a grape soup!

"There was a tremendous variance in quality, from really commercial examples, to some which were quite obviously the result of a winemaker mopping up the odds 'n sods left over in tank, to some very nice, elegant, balanced wines," said Frith.

Mullins surmised (correctly) that there were "probably some big name wines that didn't shape up - and we would have expected them to do well".

One reason he advanced was the panel's lack of consensus over the two-day tasting. "The panel never seemed to be able to co-ordinate good scores other than on a few occasions."

"I don't think I've ever been on a panel which has had such a large divergence of scores," agreed Frith, "but we said before we started that this would be a subjective category … and it was."

Another point made was that all too often the best fruit went into a winery's flagship - either a single-varietal wine or a Bordeaux-style blend. The panel commented that they'd had the impression that a lot of young wine was used - from first-crop fruit being blended away. "Give them a year or two of maturity and those elements - the Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo and even some port varietals - will be bottled on their own," said Mullins.

Davidson felt that Shiraz-based blends way outperformed any of the Pinotage-based blends. "And the Cabernet-dominated ones were also much nicer than Pinotage."
However, Bauer said she'd enjoyed the Pinotage blends - "and I'm not a Pinotage fan".

"I thought the Merlot-based blends were diabolical," said Ratcliffe, "but I'm prejudiced against Merlot blends because of that green herbaceous character you get on South African Merlot."

She mentioned some of the discussion which took place at a recent Cape Winemakers Guild seminar on blends. "Brands are important when it comes to this category." Something Mullins agreed with: "These blends are so difficult to sell - unless you have an established brand such as Kaapzicht or Beyerskloof, for example."

Ratcliffe was also critical of the Cape Blend lobby. "If we try and market a Cape Blend, the only people who understand what that means are ourselves! It has no relevance to anyone other than South Africans."

Ratcliffe summed it up by saying that she was generally disappointed with the standard - too many wines fell into 2½ Star territory. "These wines could be so much nicer if the winemakers just devoted a bit more attention to them - but the reality is that varietal wines and Bordeaux-style blends come first…"

 

The Scores
121 wines tasted

5 Stars: 0
4½ Stars: 1 (0,8%)
4 Stars: 5 (4,1%)
3½ Stars: 16 (13,2%)
3 Stars: 27 (22,3%)
2½ Stars: 32 (26,5%)
2 Stars: 13 (10,7%)
1 Stars: 13 (10,7%)
0 Stars: 2 (1,7%)

RED BLENDS AUDITED RATINGS

Mont du Toit Le Sommet 2002
Cellar Price: R468
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz) Cassis, spice and liquorice nose. Lovely rich chocolate, mulberry, cigar box flavours on a layered palate. Good mouthfeel. Complex and full-bodied. Elegant with powerful smoky finish. Drink now or in 5 years.
CF 17 RB 16 DD 14 AM 17 JR 17

Spier Vintage Selection
Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2003
Cellar Price: R75
Bold meat and peppery spice aromas. Black cherries, earth and meat flavours. Ripe and balanced. Touch leafy. Wood apparent but integrated. Structure firm but soft. Drink now or in 3 years.
CF 15,5 RB 16,5 DD 16 AM 15 JR 16,5

Yonder Hill Shiraz Merlot 2003
Cellar Price: R125
Whiffs of violets, smoke and vanilla. Juicy palate with ripe blueberries and smoked meat. Pepper too. Texture and balance are good. Long, soft finish. Drinking well now but can go 4 years.
CF 14,5 RB 16,5 DD 15 AM 15,5 JR 17,5

Kaapzicht Steytler Vision
Cape Blend 2002
Cellar Price: R150
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Merlot) Blackberry nose. Palate full of berry, mocha, cigar box. Delicious and elegant. Good complexity. Soft structure and good finish. Will drink well now or over 4 years.
CF 16 RB 15,5 DD 15 AM 15,5 JR 16,5

Rust en Vrede Estate 2002
Cellar Price: R270
(Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot) Cinnamon spice and lead pencil whiffs. Very ripe fruit creates coffee, chocolate and vanilla notes. Balance of fruit and tannin is good. Nice length of flavour. Modern wine. Drink now or over the next year.
CF 15 RB 16 DD 16 AM 14 JR 17,5

Saxenburg
Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2003
Cellar Price: R450
Red berry and violet aromatics. Cedary oak flavours balanced with red berry fruit. Some earthiness. Firm ripe tannins. Great texture and mouthfeel. Chocolate on generous finish. Drink now or over 6 years. (Tasted pre-release)
CF 15 RB 16 DD 14,5 AM 17,5 JR 16

Vrede en Lust Simond 2003 R39,95
Remhoogte Aigle Noir 2003 R45
Clos Malverne Cape Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2001 R54,90
Black Pearl ORO 2003 R70
Warwick Three Cape Ladies Cape Blend 2003 R100
Steenberg Catharina 2003 R110
Akkerdal Wild Boar 2003 R115
Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2003 R128
Graceland Three Graces 2003 R130
L'Avenir Black Label Reserve 2003 R135
Mary le Bow 2003 (Flagstone) R148
Remhoogte Bonne Nouvelle 2003 R150
Mas Nicolas Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (Nico van der Merwe) R220
Spice Route Malabar 2002 R270
De Trafford Elevation 393 2003 R300
Columella 2002 (Sadie Family) RP R450

Brampton OVR 2004 (Rustenberg)* R38
Flagstone Strata Cape Blend 2002* R38,50
Kaapzicht Estate Red Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 R39
Backsberg Elba 2003 R42
Cederberg Cederberger 2003 R45
Overgaauw Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 RP R55,19
Groot Constantia Merlot Shiraz 2003 R59
Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2001 R59
Clos Malverne Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2001 R59,50
Havana Hills Lime Road No. 1481 2003 R61,29
Flagstone Dragon Tree 2003 R62
Vergenoegd Terrace Bay 2002 R62
Babylon's Peak Babylon 2004 R65
Diemersfontein Summer's Lease 2003 R69
Glenhurst 2001 (Quoin Rock) R70
Fairview Caldera 2003 R70
Raka Figurehead 2004 R78
Akkerdal Passion 2004 R80
Remhoogte Estate 2003 R89
De Meye Trutina 2002 R90
Clos Malverne Auret Cape Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2001 R98
Beyerskloof Reserve Synergy Cape Blend 2002 R107
Grangehurst Nikela 2000 R110
Grangehurst Cape Reserve Blend 2003 AAP R146,19
Flagstone The Music Room 2003* R165
Plaisir de Merle Grand Plaisir 2002 R195
Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Syrah Mourvèdre 2003 R220

Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2004 R24
Dieu Donné Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 R28
DC Shiraz Mourvèdre 2004 (Darling Cellars) R37,20
Hill & Dale Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 (Stellenzicht) R39
Clos Malverne Devonet Merlot Pinotage Cape Blend 2004 R39,90
Glen Carlou Tortoise Hill Red 2003 R40
Mont Destin CMS 2002 R49
Kaapzicht Bin 3 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 R49
Middelvlei Pinotage Merlot 2003 R49,50
Boplaas Kuip & Clay Reserve 2003 R50
Kumkani Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Omnia)* R55,70
Clos Malverne Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 R59,50
Beyerskloof Synergy Cape Blend 2002 R62
Carisbrooke Alan Paton Reserve 2001 R65
Goats do Roam in Villages Red 2004 (Fairview) R65
Fairview SMV 2002 R65
Ingwe Amehlo 2002 R68
Diemersfontein Heaven's Eye 2003 R69
Graham Beck The William 2001 R75
Lammershoek Roulette 2004 R75
Joostenberg Bakkermat 2003 R75
Stellekaya Cape Cross 2003 R75
Goat Roti 2003 (Fairview) R80
Mulderbosch Faithful Hound 2003 R84
Mont Destin Fourteen Eighty Two 2002 R90
Neethlingshof Lord Neethling Laurentius Limited Release 2001 R93
Newton Johnson Syrah Mourvèdre 2004 R100
Guardian Peak SMG 2003 (Engelbrecht Els) R110
Clos Malverne Limited Release Auret Cape Blend Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2001 R115
Mont du Toit 2002 R130
De Trafford Roobernet Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 SO R135
Rijk's Bravado 2001 R175

Stellendrift Merlot Pinotage 2004 R24
Wildekrans Caresse Marine Cape Red Blend 2004 R30
Heron's Nest Cellar Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Pinotage 2003 (Clos Malverne) RP R35
Nederburg Baronne Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003 R34,30
Goats do Roam 2004 (Fairview) R35
Hazendal Reserve Red 2002 R37
L'Avenir L'Ami Simon 2004 R39
Joostenberg Merlot & Shiraz 2003 R39,50
Devon Hill Bluebird 2002 R42
Mont du Toit Hawequas 2003 R45
Villiera Limited Release Cellar Door
Cape Blend 2002 R45
The Cloof Cellar Blend 2004 R49,75
Overgaauw Touriga Nacional Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 RP R50
Kanonkop Kadette 2004 R50
Zevenwacht The Tin Mine 2003 R50
Raka Spliced 2003 R55
Virgin Earth High 5ive 2004 (Havana Hills) R61,29
Vriesenhof Enthopio 2002 R65
Post House Penny Black 2003 R80
Mont du Toit Les Coteaux 2003 R90
Simonsig Frans Malan 2002 R91
Bonfoi Ouverture 2002 R100
Lourensford Seventeen Hundred 2003 R115
Dornier Donatus 2002 R120
Chocolate Block 2004 (Boekenhoutskloof) RP R150

Chateau Libertas 2004 (Distell) RP R22
Kanu Rockwood 2004 R32
Kaapzicht Classique Red 2003 R34
Weltevrede Tricolore 2003 R35,50
Devon Hill Four Stars 2002 R36
Stellekaya Boschetto Rosso Red 2003 R38
Cloof Bush Vines CPS 2004 R49,75
Guardian Peak Frontier 2003 (Engelbrecht Els) R50
Dellrust Three Vines 2003 R65
Onyx Kroon 2002 (Darling Cellars) R72,20
Jacques de Savoye Cara 2002 (Vrede en Lust) R74,95
Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2002 R130
Engelbrecht Els 2003 R200

also tasted
Ken Forrester Shiraz Grenache 2003 R54
Asara Cape Fusion 2001 R65

PRICES: Wines in each star category are listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

AAP Approximate auction price
RP Retail price
SO Sold out
* Bottled under screwcap

Tasting Panel: Honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Colin Frith (chair) (CF), Cape Wine Master student Dr Rolene Bauer (RB), and Cape Wine Masters Jenny Ratcliffe of Warwick Estate (JR), Allan Mullins (AM) and Dick Davidson (DD).