Buying Guide: Non-Bordeaux-style red blends
About the category: It’s somewhat ironic that this is a category defined by what it is not, rather than by what it is! This is a catch-all class of wines, covering anything other than typical Bordeaux blends. Having said that, the wines could contain a high proportion of the five typical Bordeaux grape varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
The real interest is provided by the ‘other grapes’ that are used for blending, be they Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Zinfandel, Grenache, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barocca.or Viognier. These grapes are closely aligned with the Rhône region or the broader Mediterranean area, and they.add a definite spice and excitement to the wines.
So it’s no surprise that this is a bit of a will-o’-the-wisp – difficult to buttonhole or clearly define. And that’s where the charm lies. It is abundantly clear that South Africa’s winemakers are having fun experimenting and that there is some serious blending going on, with top-notch wines created as a result. The purpose of any blend is to make the whole greater than the sum of its individual parts. As De Grendel winemaker Charles Hopkins stated, this is a class that could happily stick up its hand to represent Brand South Africa. “It’s so exciting what is happening here – and there are so many positives among these wines.” A view that was ultimately echoed by the entire panel after reviewing all the wines that scored 4 or 4½ Stars in a fi nal taste-off – and elevating one wine to the exalted 5-Star level.
Key findings: This is most definitely a category that is going places – because of the broad scope allowed it. Overall, it excites – and one grape excites more than most: Shiraz. It was the singular most popular blending component. “There’s no doubt that Shiraz is a varietal that is suited to South African conditions and that the age of the plantings and vines has now improved,” said panellist James Pietersen, who has judged this class a number of times.
The best examples were wines that showed subtlety and nuance rather than sheer power. They were made according to an Old-World template, but with New- World ripeness and generosity of fruit. Interesting that restraint and complexity were features of the top examples. Spice and slight exoticism, cracked pepper and.minerality allied to succulent black.fruit, lively acidity and a plushness of texture make for both drinking and intellectual pleasure.
Another brief point is the value that is.on offer here. A 5-Star wine for R69.50.is.a.steal in anyone’s terms – and.the quality and price ratio in the 3- and 3½-Star bracket is fantastic.
Just as this category is described by what it’s not, one of the positives is the lack of negatives. All too often panels criticise a category because of the high incidence of faults or shoddy winemaking. The non-Bordeaux category impressed because there wasn’t too much evidence of greenness and that distinctly vegetal herbaceous character, which the European critics slate. There were a few examples of Brettanomyces, just as there were a few examples where the wood was overplayed, creating wines that were clumsy, a touch bitter and astringent and where the fruit was never given the opportunity to express.itself.
But, ultimately, tasting these 133 wines and awarding one 5 Star, seven 4½ Stars and five 4 Stars was a genuine pleasure and offers great hope for South Africa’s winemaking future.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Whale Pod Syrah Malbec 2010 (Creation Wines)
CELLAR PRICE: R69.50
Alc 14.5% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.63
Syrah 82%, Malbec 18%. Blackcurrant fruit and biltong meatiness on the nose. The palate is plush and textured with layered black fruit and spice galore. Some savoury olive notes add complexity to the whole. Deliciously lengthy aftertaste. Drink now to 2013.
FM 18 | RP 18.5 | JP 18 | CH 18 | NB 17
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R42.50
Alc 15.01% RS 1.8g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.61
Cabernet Sauvignon 52%, Shiraz 48%. Aromas of ripe black cherry and plum enhanced by smoky tendrils that carry through to the palate. Broad soft palate with lavender nuance livened by cracked pepper zip. Full-bodied with a long finish. Drink now to 2014.
FM 17.5 | RP 19.5 | JP 17 | CH 17 | NB 17
Joostenberg Bakermat 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R110
Alc 14.5% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.65
Cabernet Sauvignon 52%, Syrah 33%, Merlot 9%, Touriga Nacional 5%, Viognier 1%. The Port variety in the blend shows itself in a distinct spice on nose and mouth. Fruitcake richness tempered by toasty oak. Good body and length. Drink now to 2014.
FM 16.5 | RP 17.5 | JP 18.5 | CH 16 | NB 17
Creation Syrah Grenache 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.8% RS 2.8g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.72
Syrah 80%, Grenache 20%. Whiffs of freshly turned earth and cocoa give way to slightly brooding flavours of ripe black plum, molasses and clove spice. A leanly muscular mouthfeel without being a bruiser. Has the quality to last well. Drink now to 2016.
FM 16.5 | RP 19 | JP 17.5 | CH 16 | NB 19
Sijnn 2008 (Malagas Wine Company)
ARP: R160
Alc 14.26% RS 1.9g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.73
Shiraz 40%, Mourvèdre 29%, Touriga Nacional 22%, Trincadeira 9%. Fynbos and spice aromas on the nose give way to abundant fleshy plum, maraschino cherry and blackcurrant fruit in the mouth along with a cigar-box note. Vibrant and lively, structured and spicy – but dry. Drink now to 2014.
FM 16 | RP 17.5 | JP 18.5 | CH 16 | NB 18
Idiom Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Alc 14.5% RS 3.5g/l TA 6g/l pH 3.54
Shiraz 76%, Mourvèdre 21%, Viognier 3%. Hedgerow fruit with some herbs and even a note of salty liquorice on the bouquet. The same elements can be found in the softly fruited mouth. Toasty oak is a touch prominent but adds tannic grip. Drink now to 2014.
FM 16.5 | RP 16.5 | JP 18 | CH 16 | NB 18
Ernie Els Proprietor’s Blend 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R210
Alc 14% RS 2.6g/l TA 6.2g/l pH 3.71
Cabernet Sauvignon 62%, Shiraz 21%, Merlot 5%, Cabernet Franc 5%, Malbec 5%, Petit Verdot 2%. Black cherries with a touch of fynbos scrub on the nose. On the palate the cherry fruit and luscious succulence make for a soft, rounded mouthfeel. Hint of smoked meat adds interest, along with its undeniably firm
structure and fine dry tannins. Drink now to 2016.
FM 16.5 | RP 18 | JP 17.5 | CH 16.5 | NB 19
The Library Collection Edition: MB 2007 (Waterford Estate)
CELLAR PRICE: R320
Alc 13.6% RS 2g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.6
Shiraz 50%, Mourvèdre 40%, Grenache 10%. Berries and spice with a hint of violets. Fynbos and cracked pepper flavours vie with some liquorice earthiness. Lovely balance and texture. A harmonious savoury
wine that lingers long on the tongue. Drink now to 2016.
FM 17 | RP 17.5 | JP 18 | CH 17 | NB 18
★ ★ ★ ★
Remhoogte Estate 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R96
Alc 15% RS 2.6g/l TA 5g/l pH 3.69
Merlot 40%, Cabernet Sauvignon 23%, Shiraz 22%, Pinotage 15%. Macerated prune and brush of the tar brush on the nose. Lively spicy mouthfeel with abundant black berry fruit. Some liquorice and tarry earth notes. Strong but elegant and gentle. Long finish. Drink now to 2013.
FM 18 | RP 17 | JP 15.5 | CH 16 | NB 16
Mary le Bow 2007 (Terrace Road)
CELLAR Price : R100
Alc 13.85% RS 2.2g/ℓ TA 5.9g/ℓ pH 3.44
Shiraz 50%, Merlot 32%, Cabernet Sauvignon 18%. Mulled wine and glühwein-spice aromas. The dried orange zest and Rancio character follow to the palate, which is textured and gentle, with ample black fruit. Well-judged oak. Good structure and length overall. Drink now to 2015.
FM 16.5 | RP 17.5 | JP 16.5 | CH 17 | NB 19
Spier Creative Block 3 2009
CELLAR Price : R112
Alc 14.75% RS 4.4g/ℓ TA 6g/ℓ pH 3.61
Shiraz 84%, Mourvèdre 12%, Viognier 4%. Whiff of curry leaf with lavender and maraschino cherry beneath. Blueberry fruit sweetness is followed by roasted hazelnuts and nutmeg spice. Toasty spicy oak makes itself felt. Gentle, appealing texture and length of flavour. Drink now to 2015.
FM 16 | RP 16 | JP 16 | CH 16 | NB 16
Lingen 2009 (Stark-Condé)
CELLAR Price : R135
Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/ℓ TA 5.7g/ℓ pH 3.78
Cabernet Sauvignon 45%, Shiraz 45%, Petit Verdot 10%. Perfumed floral/violet aromatics. Succulent, juicy entry. A savoury palate with red and black berry fruit, tempered by light herbal nuances. Newly turned earth too. Dry fine tannins. Long aftertaste. Drink now to 2017.
FM 16 | RP 16.5 | JP 16 | CH 16 | NB 17
La Motte Pierneef Collection Shiraz Viognier 2008
CELLAR Price : R189
Alc 13.53% RS 3.1g/ℓ TA 5.5g/ℓ pH 3.45
Shiraz 89%, Viognier 11%. Plum spice and toasted nuts and hint of violets on the nose. The same can be found on the palate, with some earth and cocoa grip too. Feminine lightness but still structured. Lithe and lissom – the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Drink now to 2017.
FM 16 | RP 16 | JP 17 | CH 16 | NB 17
★ ★ ★ ✩
Jason’s Creek Classic Red 2009 R35
Stellekaya Boschetto Red 2009* R45
Manley Thatch House Red 2009* R50
Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2006 R70
Diemersfontein Summer’s Lease Shiraz Mourvèdre 2009 R73
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2009* R80
Stellekaya Cape Cross 2006 R95
Spier Creative Block 3 2008 R112
Hoopenburg Integer Syrah Mourvèdre Carignan 2008 R115
Bushmanspad The Menno 2009 R120
Saronsberg Full Circle 2008 R135
Allée Bleue L’Amour Toujours 2008 R140
Bellingham The Bernard Series Small Barrel S.M.V 2007 ARP R163.74
KWV The Mentors Canvas 2009* R195
Backsberg Family Reserve Red 2005 R197
Rijk’s Estate The Master 2007 R250
★ ★ ★
Saint Raphael Smooth Red NV* ARP R26.78
Koelenhof Wynkelder Koelenberg 2009 R28
Landskroon Paul Hugo Red 2010* R29
Music by D’Aria 2010* (D’Aria) R35
Edenhof Bin 409 2008 (Schalkenbosch) R45
Koelenbosch Nineteenfortyone 2008 (Koelenhof) R50
Joostenberg Shiraz Merlot 2009* R55
Oude Denneboom Eland Shiraz Mourvèdre Grenache 2008 R55
Mont Rochelle “Artemis” 2007 R58
Zevenwacht The Tin Mine Red 2009* R58
Boschendal 1685 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 R68
Edgebaston The Berry Box 2009* R69
Edgebaston The Pepper Pot 2010* R69
Hazendal Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 R70
Thokozani Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2010 R73
Tokara Zondernaam Shiraz 2009* R75
Ashton Kelder Roodewal 2010 R80
South Atlantic Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 R85
Flagstone Dragon Tree 2008* (Constellation Wines) R86
KWV Cathedral Cellar Triptych 2009 R89
Lynx SMV 2010* R90
Ernie Els Big Easy 2010 R120
Delaire Botmaskop 2008 R130
Zevenwacht Z 2008 R144
Boschendal Reserve Collection Grande Reserve 2009 ARP R146.16
Sumaridge Epitome 2007 R172
Idiom Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2008 R180
Zwalu 2009 R200
Emineo Liber III 2007 R222.30
Keermont 2008 R228
★ ★ ✩
Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010* R25
Tulbagh Winery Shiraz/Pinotage 2011* R25.50
Eagle’s Cliff Shiraz/Pinotage 2008* R30
Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010 R37.67
Flat Roof Manor Shiraz/Mourvèdre/Viognier 2009* R40
DC Shiraz Mourvèdre 2010 R43
Oak Lane Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2010* (Beau Joubert) R45
Kumkani Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon 2007* R49
Flagstone Longitude 2010 (Constellation Wines) R49.95
Melck’s Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010* (Muratie) R55
Remhoogte Aigle Noir 2009 R58
Havana Hills Du Plessis Reserve Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007 (Du Plessis Family Vineyards) R60
Backsberg Elbar 2007 R65
Landskroon Paul de Villiers Reserve 2009 R68
Tierhoek Grenache Syrah 2009 R70
Waverley Hills Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2009 R70
Schalkenbosch Stratus 2007 R75
Tormentoso Syrah Mourvèdre 2009 R79
Black Pearl Oro Shiraz Mourvèdre 2009* R85
Groenland Premium Antoinette Marié 2008 R85
Lammershoek Zinfandel Syrah 2007 R85
Nativo 2008 (The Hughes Family Wines) R85
Darling Cellars Premium Kroon 2007 R89
Lammershoek Roulette 2007 R105
Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2006 R106
Bergsig Icarus 2008 R115
Rijk’s Private Cellar Bravado 2004 R120
Grand Vin De Glenelly 2007 R125
Allée Bleue L’Amour Toujours 2007 R140
Sumaridge Epitome 2008 R160
Mont Destin Passioné 2009 R200
★ ★
Swartland Dry Red 2010* R24
Kumala Zenith Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010* R28
Landskroon Cinsaut Shiraz 2009 R32
Villiera Down to Earth Touriga Nacional Shiraz 2010 ARP R37.20
Hartenberg Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009 R42.50
Edenhof Bin 409 2009 (Schalkenbosch) R45
Overgaauw Touriga Nacional Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 R58
Groenland The Classic Collection Antoinette Marié 2007 R59.50
Asara Cape Fusion 2009 R60
Lynx Vino Tinto 2009* R60
Thelema Mountain Red 2008* R60
Amani Pendana Shiraz 2008 R70
Cederberg Cederberger 2008 R70
Boplaas Ring of Rocks Family Reserve CMT 2007 R75
Amani Forest Myers 2009 R78.92
Stellekaya Hercules 2007 R80
Lazanou Organic Vineyards Syrah Mourvèdre 2009 R90
Kyburg 33 Latitude 2008 R100
Kronendal Mirari 2008 R105
Blaauwklippen Barouche Wheels of Fortune 2009 R130
Beau Joubert Reserve 2009 R150
Emineo Liber II 2007 R222.30
The Gypsy 2007* (Ken Forrester) R295
The Library Collection Edition: MB 2004 (Waterford Estate) R350
★
Du Toitskloof Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2011* R29
John B Cabernet Sauvignon Tinta Barocca 2010* (Rietvallei) R29.95
Tulbagh Winery NV* R33
Allée Bleue Starlette Rouge 2007 R35
Swartland Merlot Shiraz 2010* R35
Bon Courage Hillside Red Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010 R40
Dieu Donné Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2009 R45
Hill and Dale Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010 R45
Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2010* R55
Jordan Chameleon Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008* R59
Virgin Earth High Five 2007 (Du Plessis Family Vineyards) R60
The Cloof Cellar Blend 2008* R75
Ken Forrester Renegade 2006* R85
Leopard Frog Kiss and Tell Reserve Limited Release 2005 R100
Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2008 R184
Four non-Bordeaux-style red blend wines tasted did not receive a Star rating.
PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap
