Buying guide: Merlot

One had hoped for more wines bursting with flavour. Instead we were reminded mostly of American Merlot rather than French Bordeaux . . . some fine wines, but too many on the boring side. WINE's tasting panel assesses what's currently on-shelf.

When South Africa first started producing large quantities of Merlot around five years ago, some thought its quality and sales potential such that the variety might become more popular than Pinotage. Sadly, this seems less likely at the start of the new millennium, judging from the WINE panel’s review of recent releases.

It’s not so much that we’re producing bad Merlots. In fact many of the wines currently on sale are good. But the show-stoppers are too few and far between – only a couple rated a clear 4 Stars by consensus after discussion among the panellists. And what was particularly notable was the big-name producers whose wines slipped below the 3 Star quality tier this year – above average, but below expectation for the category.

Colin Frith (Picardi-Rebel wine buyer and honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters) questioned the ripeness of the grapes – he believes they are still being picked too green. The winemaker on the panel, Jean Daneel, stressed the importance of a slow ripening period and the care that should be taken in grape selection. Daneel found many of the Merlots harsh and noted a lack of "harmonious, balanced wine".

Furthermore, in response to CWM Allan Mullins’ question about using the correct wood, Daneel explained that the tight-grain wood used in Merlot maturation had become prohibitively expensive for winemakers who were compromising by purchasing barrels made in part, at least, from more porous wood. He added that the origin of wood was also very important, and that much of what was being imported from Russia and the East was inappropriate, delivering tannins that are too harsh.

But perhaps we are simply drinking these Merlots too early? "Not necessarily," said Daneel. He believes that whilst the wines might last a little longer they will probably not improve.

Are we any different from California? A few outstanding Merlots have been made there for years, but the recent trendiness of this variety, possibly because the populace find it easy to pronounce, and because the media have latched onto its supposed easy-drinking reputation, has also resulted in a flood of … boring wines, according to some observers.

Perhaps, like Pinot Noir in Burgundy, it’s only in its homeland that Merlot is most likely to really deliver – on the right bank of the Gironde in Bordeaux. There are a few Cape wine cellars, at least, who’d disagree . . .
Tasting notes

4 stars

IV Spears Reserve 1998 Spier cellars price: R60 Deep plum colour with bright crimson rim. Whiffs of olives, cloves, fennel and smoke. Clean oak nose with hints of eucalyptus. Ripe fruit and mulberries on palate ending in a long juicy finish. Drink now to 4 years. (Aug release).

Boschendal 1997 Cellar price: R48.42 Deep, almost opaque purple with brick/orange rim. Ripe raspberry and strawberry aromas with hints of mint. BIG 'sweet' mouth - milk choc, malt, mulberry, vanilla, soft supple tannin. Oak dominant. Excellent texture and balance. Long finish. Drink now to 4 years.

Veenwouden 1997 Cellar price: R55 (SOLD OUT ex-cellar) Deep ruby-black. Sandy, rooty nose with hints of olive and eucalyptus. Coffee, chocolate and caramel in the mouth. A little treacly. Ripe berries with good wood and fruit structure. Drink now or within next 2 years.

3½ stars

Vera Cruz 1998 Delheim price: R75 Deep ruby hue with pale brick rim. Toasty, gamey nose with ripe youngberry undertone, following through onto the palate. Vanilla and oak in the mouth. Excellent structure. Long mid-palate and clean plumy finish. Will develop well. Keep for 1 to 4 years.

Dieu Donné 1998 Cellar price: R37.50 Deep ruby-black. Dusty, jammy, mulberry and plum nose with smoky oak background. Wild flavours and weedy, but well-balanced fruit. Strong tannins, vibrant and juicy. Very concentrated, but supple. Drink now to 5 years.

Elephant Pass 1998 Cellar price: R40 Good deep plum hues. Complex claret aromas with clean berries and barley. Slightly metallic nose. Gamey, barnyard whiffs. Firm palate with tightly packed fruit - especially mulberries, plums and cassis. Soft, sweet, juicy and supple, with some bramble and redcurrant. Lingering finish. Enjoy now to 3 years.

Laibach 1998 Cellar price: R35 Deep ruby, crimson rim. Big, smoky, ripe plum nose. Coffee and cassis notes. Full, juicy mouth flavours, blackberry, raspberry, vanilla, clean oak. Savoury, developing well. Soft tannins, long palate. Lots of potential. Keep up to 8 years.

Uiterwyk 1998 Cellar price: R33 Ruby-black with crimson rim. Youthful cassis and pepper aromas with hints of Ribena, blackberry, violets and oak. Carries into robust, long mid-palate with sweet and succulent mouth: mocha flavours, bags of red berries, supple tannins and shortish, oaky finish. Drink within next 5 years.

Remhoogte 1998 Cellar price: R35 Good plum colour. Nose shows cassis, oak, chocolate and coffee. Plum, cherry, mulberry and liquorice in the mouth. Somewhat herbaceous. Oak on the palate with supple blackberry finish. Allow to develop. Drink within next 3 years.

Jordan Cobbler's Hill Single Vineyard 1997 Cellar price: R55 Good ruby, plum colour. Complex coffee and spice aromas. Big, generous mouthfeel with soft-yielding black and red berries. Smoky oak. Medium bodied, with classic claret character. Quite tannic with long finish. Drink now to 3 years.

Môreson 1997 Cellar price: R75 Blackish plum colour with orange brick rim. Complex, tarry, clove and spice aromas with some smoky, ripe plum. Fat, jammy palate with soft fruit and wood. Soft tannins. Some cherries and liquorice in the background. Long finish. Drink within 4 years.

Meinert 1997 Cellar price: R45 Blackish plum hues with russet rim. Packed, ripe berry nose with complex undergrowth, tobacco and dust aromas. Hints of fennel. Berries, char and oak carry through to create a complex palate. Developing well. Drink within next 3 years.

Delaire 1997 Cellar price: R105 Blackish-plum in colour with brick-crimson rim. Classic claret aromas with coffee and layers of soft berries and chocolate on the nose. Fruit and acid on a long palate. Some eucalyptus. Lots of flavour. Complex. High acid, rather hard finish. Wood showing. Needs time. Keep for between one and 4 years.

3 stars

Vlottenburg 1998 R17.00 De Leuwen Jagt 1998 (Seidelberg) R18.50 Seidelberg 1998 R23.00 Welmoed 1998 R24.95 Villiera 1998 R28.00 Delheim 1997 R29.35 Cape View 1998 (Kaapzicht) R30.00 Jordan 1998 R38.00 Verdun 1997 R38.00 Overgaauw 1998 R38.50 Fairview 1998 R40.00 Kanu 1998 (Goedgeloof) R40.00 Longridge 1998 R40.00 Steenberg 1998 R42.00 Buitenverwachting 1995 R45.00 Rickety Bridge 1997 R45.00 Rust en Vrede 1998 R45.00 Morgenhof 1997 R46.00 Bredell's 1998 R47.00 de Trafford 1998 R50.00 Hartenberg 1996 R56.50

2 stars

De Villiers 1999 R15.00 Robertson Co-op 1999 R16.00 Landskroon 1998 R21.00 Country Cellars 1998 (Spar)† R21.99 Drostdy Hof 1998 R22.00 Neil Joubert 1998 (Klein Simonsvlei) R22.50 Helderkruin 1998 R25.00 DC 1998 (Darling Cellars) R25.50 Woolworths (La Motte) 1998 R28.99 Zonnebloem 1997† R28.00 Fleur du Cap 1997† R32.40 Vergenoegd 1997 R33.00 Hoopenburg 1999 R33.50 Kaapzicht 1997† R35.00 Bloemendal 1998 R37.00 Avontuur 1998 R38.00 Boplaas Reserve 1998 R38.00 Delaire Green Door 1998 R38.00 Wildekrans 1998 R39.95 Cordoba 1996 R40.00 Warwick 1997 R40.00 Louisvale 1996 R42.90 Thelema 1997 R45.00 Plaisir de Merle 1997 R56.00 Meerlust 1995†† R77.50

1 star

Bovlei 1997 R20.40 Rooiberg 1998 R23.00 Eikendal 1998 R28.50 Rhebokskloof 1997 R29.50 WhaleHaven 1997 R30.00 Laborie 1997 R30.40 Hercules Paragon 1998 (Simonsvlei) R36.50 Stellenzicht 1996† R43.50 Woolworths Terroir Walker Bay Wildekrans 1997† R44.99 Meerlust 1989 (magnum) R650.00

† Only available from the farm †† Sold out at the cellar ††† Approximate retail price – all other prices ex-cellar

WINE Tasters: Dave Hughes (panel chairman), Allan Mullins CWM, Jean Daneel, Tony Mossop CWM and Colin Frith

Procedures: Tasting done 'blind'. Wines poured at 18ºC. The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 to 17; 3 Star = 15; 2 Star = 14; 1 Star = 13 out of 20; No Star = less than 13. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus. (Wine identities not revealed to panellists until publication of the assessments).