Buying guide: Merlot
Both wine critics and wine makers expressed feelings of doubt about the difficult 2002 harvest almost before the last tanks had finished bubbling in the cellars. The comparative drought of the previous few seasons had been well and truly broken during the sodden winter of 2001, the wettest for four decades. The trouble was, the rain didn't know when to stop, so farmers were hard pressed to control the downy mildew which flourished in the damp spring conditions. Those who managed to spray it to death relished the relatively cool ripening season as 2002 got underway, only to start the harvest in the usual sweltering February heat wave. All this dictated virtual berry-by-berry selection to guarantee any sort of quality, and to cap it all, autumn '02 arrived rather early for late ripeners like Cabernet Sauvignon.
So here we are with WINE magazine's first comprehensive look at 2002 reds, with 75 Merlots on the bench. How do they stack up? Compared with the previous two vintages, not all that well in terms of top quality wines.
Our panel only uncovered a single 4 Star, Steenberg's chunky yet fruity offering. A pretty fine collection of 3½ Star awards, however, including quite a few of the usual suspects such as Thelema and Spier. The regularly stellar De Trafford was one of the many 3 Star wines, accompanying other Merlot "specialists" like Hartenberg, Longridge, Groot Constantia and Rust en Vrede. Just under half achieved at least 3 Star ratings - quite a bit better than the 40-odd percent for 2000 and 2001. So a vintage of fair average quality - with a distinct lack of top-notch wines.
"Unexciting" was Colin Frith's verdict. "Lots of 2½ and 3 Star wines - 'above average' to 'good'. Competent winemaking, considering the conditions, but not too much Merlot character. I didn't find my notes had key words associated with the variety, such as 'soft', 'plummy', 'supple'…"
Like all of us on the panel, Frith remarked on the rapid development apparent in many samples, evidenced by a premature tawny hue around the glass rim, signalling early drinking.
Dick Davidson wished some of the winemakers had "read" their wines a bit better and tempered their use of oak somewhat to suit the lighter fruit quality of the vintage. "They should have opted for softer, less wooded, more fruity wines," he felt.
Clive Torr agreed, and noted that he had struggled a bit to find harmonious, balanced wines, hence the paucity of 4 Star ratings.
"They ranged from the 'tutti-fruity' style to the over-ripe, porty style, with not enough harmony in between. But the consumer loves Merlot - it's the red version of Chardonnay, almost a brand in its own right. But I think we realise now that it's the ideal blending partner - even the finest Merlot-based wines, from the Right Bank in Bordeaux, are never solo examples, but blended with a complementary variety such as Cabernet Franc."
Our discussion covered all of the usual topics which have surfaced over the past few years at this tasting. For instance, Merlot is extremely site-specific, requiring some clay sub-soil for moisture retention, to mitigate against possible moisture stress and the resultant green flavours. And the vine's vigorous growth, together with its propensity to develop tannins rapidly and to soak up wood like a sponge, leading to lack of balance. That there are comparatively few real Merlot "specialist" cellars is also notable - almost everyone has some Merlot in their vineyards, but few devote it to a signature wine.
An interesting point is that many cellars de-classified their top-of-the-line Bordeaux blends in 2002, so there may well be more Merlot around to be sold as a single-variety wine. The 2005 Diners Club competition, being judged in October this year, should be interesting: the category is Merlot, from any vintage. Maybe the winner will emerge from 2002?
Steenberg Merlot 2002
Cellar Price: R94 SO
Classic aromas of fruitcake, mulberries and a whiff of mint chocolate, all echoed on the firm, fruit-forward palate. A full-bodied, solidly structured but elegantly balanced wine, showing cool-climate freshness and a dose of grainy tannins on the finish - one for the cellar. Drink now to 2012.
TM 15,5 CF 15,5 FM 14,5 CT 17 DD 16
Porcupine Ridge Merlot 2002 (Boekenhoutskloof)
Approximate Retail Price: R43,95
Spicy mocha and coffee aromas, with some meaty undertones. Impressively structured, with layers of chocolate and blackcurrant flavours and a ripe, zesty finish showing a hint of liquorice. Drink now to 2010.
TM 16 CF 15,5 FM 13 CT 15,5 DD 16
Somerbosch Merlot 2002
Approximate Retail Price: R47
Complex whiffs of Christmas pudding, with hints of smoked meat and cigar box, indicating some serious oaking in good barrels. Ripe, rich and supple in the mouth. Enjoyable now, but will last at least 6 years.
TM 17 CF 15,5 FM 14,5 CT 15 DD 15
Fairview Merlot 2002
Approximate Retail Price: R61,95
Bright, juicy aromas - mulberry jam, fruit pastilles - a real fruit bomb of a wine. Hints of dark chocolate and fennel on the palate, with firm, dry tannins adding grip to the finish. Drink now to 2010.
TM 15,5 CF 15,5 FM 15 CT 15 DD 16
Sterhuis Merlot 2002
Cellar Price: R70
Smoky cigar-box and prune aromas show ripeness in this fat, soft example. Spicy fruitcake flavours dominate, with earthy chocolate and herb flavours adding an intriguing dimension. Drink now or hold for up to 5 years.
TM 16 CF 14 FM 16,5 CT 16 DD 14,5
Ridgeback Merlot 2002
Cellar Price: R70
Shows intense aromas of wood smoke, prunes and cassis fruit. A big, chunky wine, with bags of ripe berry fruit absorbing the spicy vanilla notes from the obvious wood treatment. One for lovers of French oak. Drink now to 2012.
TM 15,5 CF 15 FM 13 CT 16 DD 16
Bredell's Merlot 2002
JP Bredell's Price: R74
Powerful plum jam and vanilla aromas. Densely structured and chunky, with plenty of locked-up flavours - toasted nuts, marzipan and crushed red berries. Will repay patience and drink well till 2012.
TM 16 CF 15,5 FM 14,5 CT 15 DD 16
Stark Merlot 2002
Stark-Condè Price: R89
Aromas of green olives, red berries and a hint of pencil-box oak. A sweetly fruited, modern style of Merlot, packed with energy, but ready to drink now. Very ripe, but balanced and supple on the finish. Drink now to 2010.
TM 15,5 CF 15 FM 15 CT 15,5 DD 16,5
Spier Private Collection
Merlot 2002
Cellar Price: R95
Whiffs of ripe blackberries and cassis fruit - some menthol too. Sweetly fruited on the palate, offering chocolate and macerated plum flavours, with an attractive chunkiness to the fennel-flavoured finish. Could do with a year in the cellar before enjoying over the next 5 or 6 years.
TM 16 CF 15 FM 16,5 CT 15 DD 14
Thelema Merlot Reserve 2002
Cellar Price: R150
A seriously wooded wine, showing complex, smoked meat and mocha aromas, with some of that hallmark terroir-driven mintiness. Dense and full-bodied, the ripe berry fruit is framed with firm, grainy tannins. Drink from 2006 to 2015.
TM 15,5 CF 15,5 FM 15 CT 17 DD 14
TM = Tony Mossop, CF = Colin Frith, FM = Fiona McDonald, CT = Clive Torr, DD = Dick Davidson
L'Ormarins Barrique Select Merlot 2002 TBA
Camberley Merlot 2002 NCA
Bovlei Reserve Merlot 2002 R32,50
Stellenbosch Hills Merlot 2002 R35,50
Guardian Peak Merlot 2002 ARP R41,95
Robert Alexander Merlot 2002 SO R45
Durbanville Hills Merlot 2002 ARP R53
Bonfoi Merlot 2002 R57
Anura Merlot 2002 R69
Groot Constantia Merlot 2002 R69
Bilton Merlot 2002 R70
L'Ormarins Merlot 2002 SO R73
Slaley Merlot 2002 R75
Thelema Merlot 2002 R80
Radford Dale Merlot 2002 ARP R80,65
Longridge Merlot 2002 R83
Lanzerac Merlot 2002 SO R85
Quoin Rock Merlot 2002 R85
La Cave Merlot 2002 (Wamakersvallei) R87,58
Hartenberg Merlot 2002 R88
Luca and Ingrid Bein Merlot 2002 R90
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem Merlot 2002 R95
Havana Hills Du Plessis Reserve Merlot 2002 ACP R98
Rust en Vrede Merlot 2002 R105
De Trafford Merlot 2002 SO R110
Koelenhof Merlot 2002 R27,50
Kleine Zalze Merlot 2002 R36
Darling Cellars "Six Tonner" Merlot 2002 ARP R39,95
Dieu Donne Merlot 2002 R46,90
Hazendal Merlot 2002 R49
Seidelberg Merlot 2002 R49
Zevenwacht Merlot 2002 R52
Hoopenburg Merlot 2002 R53
Stony Brook Merlot 2002 R55
Laibach Merlot 2002 R60
Cowlin Merlot 2002 ARP R63,85
Overgaauw Merlot 2002 R65,80
KWV Reserve Merlot 2002 R69
Kanu Limited Release Merlot 2002 R70
Jordan Merlot 2002 R71,50
Cordoba Merlot 2002 ACP R73
Rickety Bridge Merlot 2002 R75
Fleur du Cap Merlot Unfiltered 2002 ARP R75,10
Graceland Merlot 2002 SO R80
Plaisir de Merle Merlot 2002 ARP R97
Mount Rozier Merlot 2002 ARP R100
Bellingham Spitz Merlot 2002 ARP R119
Riebeek Cellars Merlot 2002 R24
Robertson Winery Merlot 2002 SO R24,65
Lindiwe Merlot 2002 R29
Welmoed Merlot 2002 R37
Douglas Green Merlot 2002 ARP R38
Du Toitskloof Merlot 2002 ARP R45
Niel Joubert Merlot 2002 ARP R47,55
Deetlefs Merlot 2002 R51
Groote Post Merlot 2002 R52
Sentinel Merlot 2002 R64
Iona Merlot 2002 R65
Mischa Estate Merlot 2002 R75
Vergenoegd Merlot 2002 R80
Meinert Merlot 2002 ARP R83,50
Rooiberg Merlot 2002 R26
Landskroon Merlot 2002 R36
Lushof Merlot 2002 ARP R59
Ernst & Co Merlot 2002 R60
PRICES: Wines in each star category are listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP: Approximate retail price
ACP: Approximate cellar price
SO: Sold out
TBA: Price to be announced
NCA: Not commercially available
WINE TASTERS: Cape Wine Masters Tony Mossop (chairman), Dick Davidson and Clive Torr, honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Colin Frith and WINE magazine editor Fiona McDonald.
