Buying guide: Italian varieties

Italy is one of the world's three biggest wine producing countries (France and Spain being the others). In 2005, total output amounted to approximately 50.6 million hl. And it has a long history of wine, with the country's Roman legions having facilitated the spread of viticulture to a large part of western Europe some 2 500 years ago.

Today, Italy has as much potential for fine wine as France or any other country although production is hugely fragmented: the total area under vineyard is 765 000ha tended by 606 000 growers, making for an average of 1.3ha/grower (compared to 22.7ha per grower in South Africa).

It must also be understood that Italian viticulture remains firmly wedded to traditional indigenous varieties whose number has been estimated as over 2 000. The Oxford Companion to Wine (1999) relates that of the country's 20 most-widely planted grapes, only Merlot is an obvious import while Sangiovese is by far the most prevalent (albeit in strains of varying distinction).

The two areas of Italy that have the highest profile are Piedmont in the northwest and Tuscany situated more centrally.

Piedmont is most famous for Nebbiolo and Barbera. Of the two, Nebbiolo is responsible for the highly regarded wines of Barolo and Barbaresco. Barbera on the other hand has a reputation for being a workhorse variety but there are some producers such as the maverick Angelo Gaja who use it to make very fine wines.

Central Italy is totally dominated by Sangiovese, localized clones being responsible for the prestigious Brunello di Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Though Italian varieties have traditionally not been exported with much success, it is intriguing to note more and more South African producers working with them. Hence WINE magazine's tasting of local examples, alongside some not too expensive wines from the mother country.

The exercise proved divisive. Dave Hughes, panel chairman and honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters said that he "got the feeling right the way through that the imported wines had been hotly stored at some stage" with the result that many appeared unduly tired.

Allan Mullins, Woolworths wine selector and Cape Wine Master suggested that old Italian was an acquired taste and advised that the imported examples that had been around for a while should be drunk immediately.

Roland Peens of Wine Cellar, a wine brokerage and cellaring firm and Cape Wine Master in training took a more sanguine view suggesting that many still had great potential to age.

Peens admitted that too often he found the South African wines sweet and confected while he appreciated the imported wines for showing "restrained red berry character, dry tannins and mouth-watering acidity".

Just how conflict-ridden the tasting became is demonstrated by what happened with the Monchiero Rocche Barolo 2000: Hughes, Mullins and wine farmer Lorna Hughes scored it very low (13.5, 13 and 13 respectively) while Peens and myself scored it high (17.5 and 16). It ended up getting a rating of 2½ Stars.

Peens argued that the local examples, whether from Nebbiolo, Barbera or Sangiovese, often lacked varietal character. On the other hand, Hughes contended that "green doesn't come in one shade" and that the local wines were perfectly legitimate.

On the whole, however, the South African examples performed well enough to suggest that Italian varieties have a promising future here. As Lorna Hughes put it, "Italy is in. Everybody loves Italian food and the two countries have similar climates".

NEBBIOLO

Steenberg Nebbiolo 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R100 SO
Aromas of red berry fruit and some eucalyptus. Palate shows layers of sweet fruit and firm tannins. Drink now or over five years.
DH 18 AM 16 RP 15.5 LH 17 CE 15

Sandrone Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d'Alba 2001(Italy)
Caroline's Fine Wines PRICE: R257
Rose petals, tar and some oxidation on the nose. Juicy fruit, some tertiary savouriness and fine tannins on the palate. Full bodied but balanced. Long, dry finish. Drink now or over five years.
DH 15 AM 15 RP 18 LH 16 CE 16

Idiom Nebbiolo 2004 (Whalehaven) R120
Fontanafredda Serralunga d'Alba Barolo 2000 (Italy) (The Wine Cellar) RP R223
Prunotto Bussia Barolo 1999 (Italy) (Antinori) (Terroir) RP R332

Prunotto Barbaresco 1999 (Italy) (Antinori) (Terroir) RP R215

Ca'Bianca Barolo 2002 (Italy) (Melgab) RP R188.10
Monchiero Rocche Barolo 2000 (Italy) (Caroline's Fine Wines) RP R228

BARBERA

Riverstone Family Reserve Barbera 2004 (Merwida) R45
Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera 2005 (Italy) (The Wine Cellar) RP R65

Calissano Barbera d'Asti 2003 (Italy) (Melgab) RP R51.30
Altydgedacht Barbera 2003 R55
Renosterbos Barbera 2005 (Hof Street) R60
Prunotto Barbera d'Alba 2002 (Italy) (Antinori) (Terroir) RP R84

SANGIOVESE (single varietals or blends including a significant portion)

Anura Sangiovese 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R85 SO
Ripe dark fruit, some floral notes and oak whiffs. Palate is rich and opulent. Lots of dark fruit matched by ample but supple tannins. Needs to develop. Keep for three years.
DH 16.5 AM 17 RP 16.5 LH 15.5 CE 15

Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico 2003 (Italy)
Woolworths PRICE: R99.99
Black cherry aromas. Palate is medium bodied. Layers of berry fruit and soft, supple tannins. Appealing savoury character. Long finish. Drink now or over three years.
DH 16 AM 16 RP 16 LH 15.5 CE 17

Idiom Sangiovese 2004
whalehaven PRICE: R120
Black fruit, oak whiffs - some floral notes. Palate is full bodied with sweet, juicy fruit and ripe tannins. Drink now or over three years.
DH 14.5 AM 18 RP 16.5 LH 16 CE 15

La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino 1999 (Italy)
The Wine Cellar PRICE: R495
Dark berries and herbs. Full bodied and concentrated. Ripe fruit matched by firm but elegant tannins. Also spice and earthy notes. Long finish. Drink now or over 10 years.
DH 13 AM 18 RP 17 LH 16 CE 17


Agostinelli Sangiovese 2005 (Fairview) SO R35
Havana Hills Italian Job 2004 R46.78
Woolworths Fiasco Rosso Sangiovese di Toscana 2004 (Italy) RP R49.95
Antinori Toscana 2001(Italy) (Terroir) RP R110
Mellini Vigneti La Selvanella Chianti Classico
Riserva 2001 (Italy) (Melgab) RP R142.50
Bouchard Finlayson Hannibal 2004 R130

Raka Sangiovese 2005 R50
Renzo Masi Chianti Riserva 2002 (Italy) (Melgab) RP R80
Nederburg Private Bin Sangiovese Barbera Nebbiolo 2001 AAP R166

Monterosso Socrate Sangiovese 2004 SO R35
Terra del Capo Sangiovese 2004 (L'Ormarins) (Wine Concepts) RP R70

also tasted
Carobbio Leone Sangiovese
Toscano 1999 (Italy) (Caroline's Fine Wines) RP R229

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

AAP Average auction price
RP Retail price
SO Retail price

Wine tasters: Honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Dave Hughes (DH) (chair) and Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins of Woolworths (AM), Roland Peens of The Wine Cellar (RP), wine farmer Lorna Hughes (LH) with WINE magazine deputy editor Christian Eedes (CE).