Buying guide: Dessert wines (unfortified)
Soetes, stickies, liquid nectar, ambrosia… all describe sweet wines. Fiona McDonald reports on our latest panel tasting of Noble Lates, Natural Sweets and Straw wines.
In Sauternes the cool evening mists that linger until late the following morning play a vital role in fostering fungal infection.
But this is not just any vrot, but the highly desirable noble rot - botrytis cinerea.
Anyone who has seen an electron microscope photograph of botrytis will recall the long, thin proboscis which pierces the grape's skin and penetrates deep into its flesh, sucking out water and concentrating the sugars within.
It's this concentration - and consequent low juice yields - that make Noble Late Harvest wines so special. But it's not just the sweetness that counts - it's the balance with acid, the elegance and structure and heartbreaking beauty of the wine. Liquid amber, ambrosia or nectar of the gods are just a few of the more whimsical terms used to describe it.
France's Sauternes, with its renowned Chateau d'Yquem, is not the only region famous for its sweet wines. There's Hungary with its glorious Tokay and Germany's trockenbeerenauslese wines.
But South Africa has a number of great examples as well. Günter Brözel introduced the country to the magic of Nederburg Edelkeur and Eminence, winning wide acclaim for these.
WINE magazine's panel has confirmed other stunners over the years - awarding Stellenzicht's Weisser Riesling NLH 1998 a coveted five star rating in the latest round-up.
Since WINE's inception eight years ago only 10 local wines have been deemed worthy of five star status. They have to be exceptional wines, wines of distinction, world class and the panel felt that in this one, they had tasted near perfection.
"It's a beautiful wine!" was Buitenverwachting winemaker Hermann Kirschbaum's summation.
"My top scorer," said wine writer Dave Biggs.
Colin Frith of Boland Wine weighed in with "international class - my best wine of them all" - while Darling cellarmaster Abé Beukes said it had "lovely concentration and balance".
Panel Chairman Dave Hughes said in typically understated fashion that it was "damn nice wine!"
Other delights reviewed included two vin de Paille (Straw) wines and a Natural Sweet which scored 4½ stars.
What IS a natural sweet? While the old saw of "natural sweets used to be failed Noble Late Harvests" was trotted out, there was some debate.
It is a bit of an ephemeral category with the requirements being simply that it have a minimum alcohol of 6,5% and the residual sugar be at least 30g/l. There is no top limit on this.
The consensus of opinion is that while everyone grapples to come to terms with it, there is a definite need for the category. It was pointed out that wines such as Klein Constantia's Vin de Constance and De Wetshof's Mine D'Or couldn't be categorised otherwise.
Hermann said: "As a winemaker there's a nice gap to use. I'd hate to see it disappear but there is a problem from both a judging and consumer perspective.
"You can make two different styles. If your noble is not quite up to the standard you think it should be, you can step it down to a Natural Sweet - or you can start with the intention of making a Natural Sweet from the word go. Since you don't get botrytis every year, it gives you some flexibility."
The requirements for Noble Late Harvest are strictly defined: the wines must be botrytised, and their minimum sugar must be above 50g/l.
Colin Frith put the category in perspective: "What we're seeing here is a reflection of three dry winters which led to a lack of botrytis in the vineyards. A number of them were well-made wines with good flavour - but it's mainly on the 98s that you get that marmalade and citrus identifiable as botrytis."
He also pointed out that, stylistically, it was obvious that South Africa is moving away from the Germanic style brown, raisiny wines to lighter, more elegant and classic French styles.
"I'd like to take my hat off to these winemakers who made noble in difficult vintages," said Hermann.
Both he and Abé Beukes enjoyed the wines that showed a bit of wood although Hermann expressed some concern at the way Muscat flavours could be mistaken for botrytis character.
"It's nice but it doesn't always fit into a classic botrytis wine." Soetes lover Dave Biggs hailed the selection and variety.
"I liked that there were not too many that were overly sticky and sweet. There were so many with nice acid and balance; good clean wines." Straw wines are made from grapes picked ripe and then laid out to dry on straw mats.
The judges rated both the Fairview and de Trafford 4¡ stars, commenting on the complexity and ripe fruit flavours
The final word went to Abé: "a heavenly tasting, "but I just hope that we have better rain this year so that we can get some more botrytis!"
Tasting Notes
4 stars
Stellenzicht Weisser Riesling 1998 NEETHLINGSHOF PRICE: R57.00 The first ever Noble Late to get a five star rating from WINE! Simply gorgeous. Brilliant green gold. Almost flower-scented nose with clean, tangy botrytis, characteristic honey, pine, peach, citrus and dried apricot esters. Complex, flavoursome and eminently drinkable. Savour this one in 4 to 6 years.
3 stars
Morgenhof 1998 CELLAR PRICE: R59.80 Bright medium yellow. Slight burnt nose with more wood and slight nuttiness. Full, syrupy mouth with loads of fruit… clean and citrus with barley sugar boiled sweets on the finish. Drink anytime.
IV Spears 1998 SPIER CELLARS' PRICE: R60.00 Yellow. Clean elegance with botrytis and straw esters; also ripe, tangy fruit: mango, guava, dried apricot. Not over-sweet or cloying. Smooth, clean mouthfeel and good balance. Drink now to 6 years.
Neethlingshof Weisser Riesling 1998 CELLAR PRICE: R66.00 Brilliant yellow, dab of green. Oak and marmalade leading onto a pine nose; some sunny botrytis. Loads of fruit, some citrus. Sweet with almost tannic dryness on the finish. Crisp and clean. Drink in 2 to 4 years.
Vergelegen Sémillon 1998 CELLAR PRICE: R70.03 Yellow gold. Peppery Sauvignon Blanc character, wet wool and some spicy oak and botrytis follow onto a palate with coffee in the background. Smooth and silky with fresh citrus finish. Drink now to 6 years.
Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc Botrytis 1998 CELLAR PRICE: R75.00 Bright gold. Pine and botrytis character with citrus and tropical whiffs. Rich and mellow on the palate, showing good fruit and acid balance with complex citrus and more botrytis. Long finish. Drink now to 6 years.
Boland Century 2000 (1998 Vintage) CELLAR PRICE: R75.00 Deep gold. Gorgeous pine and terpene nose, heavy Muscat character. Rich, oily mouth - wonderfully balanced with a basketful of nectarines, naartjies, marmalade and sweet-sour flavours. Drink now to 10 years.
Signal Hill Creme de Tete 1998 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R80.00 Copper-gold hue. Slight Chardonnay nose; oak and marmalade with some raisins. Very complex: sweet and oily mouth offering burnt character on marmalade, fresh fruit and hints of tobacco. Velvety feel. Drink now to 6 years.
3½ stars
Dieu Donné 1997 R18.50 Nederburg 1999 R28.18 Zonnebloem 1996 * R33.50 Nederburg Eminence Muscat 1999 ** R44.00 Elixir Noble Late Harvest 2000 (SAVISA)R45.00
3 stars
Slanghoek 1998 R22.00 Villiera Inspiration 2000 (Chenin Blanc) R45.00 Nederburg Edelkeur Chenin Blanc 1998 ** R54.00 Avontuur Above Royalty 1999 R62.00 Signal Hill Creme de Tete 2000 * R75.00 De Wetshof Edeloes 1998 R300.00
2 stars
Delheim Edelspatz 2000 R34.50 Bon Courage 2000 R40.00 Vera Cruz 1998 (Delheim) R40.00 Ken Forrester "T" 1999 * R77.00
1 star
Amani Charlotte Botrytised Chenin Blanc 2000 R50.00 Simonsig Vin de Liza 1999 R55.00
