Buying guide: Dessert wines
Muscadels may continue to charm, but mediocrity marks most of the newly released Noble Late Harvests, and some confusion dogs the Natural Sweets. Christian Eedes reports on WINE's recent dessert wine tasting.
Sweet dessert wines have long been a category for which South Africa has justifiably been renowned, but when the WINE magazine panel assessed the current crop, results were a little disappointing. Out of 25 Noble Late Harvest wines tasted, only one 41/2 Star and three 4 Star ratings were achieved; out of 6 Natural Sweets, no wines rated above 31/2 Stars and out of two Straw Wines, only one rated 4 Stars.
What gives? Noble Late Harvest wines depend on the occurrence of noble rot (botrytis cinerea) in the vineyard. This fungus attacks the skin of the grape, causing much of the juice to evaporate. As the grapes wither, their sweetness and flavour become powerfully concentrated. "Botrytis is the magic fairy dust that makes these wines special," as panel member and CWM Irina von Holdt put it. The lower the incidence of noble rot, the less character the resulting wine will show. Notable then that many of the wines in the line-up were from the hot vintages of 2000 and 2001, when conditions were not conducive to botrytis.
Panellist and Darling Cellars winemaker Abé Beukes detected a lack of concentration and low glycerol levels on many of these wines.
The 2002 vintage saw better botrytis, and though the panel did not identify any "brilliant wines", the general feeling was that with age, these would gain complexity. "With the right acidity and balance, these wines definitely improve with age," said panellist and Cape Wine Master Alan Mullins. The highest scoring wine was the Klein Constantia Noble Late from the 1998 vintage, further proof of the benefits of some ageing.
The overall quality was deemed good, with very few wines displaying faults. The fact that only a handful achieved outstanding quality was due to vintage difficulties, not lack of ability on the part of local winemakers. "Over the years, our winemakers have learnt many lessons about making this style of wine and have become quite experienced. We should definitely persist with Noble Late," said Beukes.
Discussing the Natural Sweet category, the panel observed there was a lack of clarity as to its precise definition, with any wine not affected by botrytis and with more than 30 g/l residual sugar being included. Consequently, the category tended to be a bit of a "mixed bag", encompassing anything from the less serious (very low in alcohol) to the famed Klein Constantia Vin de Constance.
The appreciation of Straw Wines was not hampered by any loose specifications.
To make this type of wine, grapes must be picked at a very ripe stage, then dried on straw mats to concentrate them further. The panel enjoyed the "novelty" of this style of wine and agreed it possessed "a real point of difference". They awarded the De Trafford Vin De Paille 2001 no fewer than 4 Stars.
Muscadels evoked much discussion, and though there weren't too many that scored very highly, the panel was inclined to regard these wines fondly for sentimental reasons. Drinking them should be occasion-based was the general consensus: excellent after a day's fishing or paired with a rich cheese like Gorgonzola on a cold winter's eve.
"We all love them, and once or twice a year succumb to them," remarked Ross Gower, panellist and former winemaker at Klein Constantia. "There are more stories to go with drinking Muscadel than just about any other style of wine."
Irina von Holdt pointed out that consumers tend to be unimaginative when it comes to matching wine with dessert. "As a general rule, the wine should be sweeter than the dessert. Muscadel goes very well with steamed or baked puddings. It has a natural place at the end of the meal. I wish consumers would look at the Muscadel category more intelligently, as it solves a problem."
The Monis Vintage Muscadel 1992, winner of the Trophy for Best Fortified Muscat at the Fairbairn Capital Trophy Wine Show 2002, again proved its credentials with a 41/2 Star rating.
NOBLE LATE HARVEST WINES
KLEIN CONSTANTIA NOBLE LATE HARVEST 1998
CELLAR PRICE: R150.00
An elegant wine with honey and dried apricots on the nose. Shows superb concentration of flavour on the palate. Good botrytis and lively acidity. Wood well judged. Long finish. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
LIEVLAND NOBLE LATE HARVEST RESERVE 1997
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R45.00
Elegant rather than powerful. Creamy, somewhat shy nose. Appealing bottle age. On the palate, well-rounded and sweet, showing apricot and pineapple flavours. Well integrated. Drink now or keep for up to 2 years.
BOLAND NOBLE LATE HARVEST 1998
CELLAR PRICE: R55.00
Very deep colour. Unusual nose showing mint along with some raisin notes. Good balance between sugar and acid. Silky mouthfeel. Very spicy including mint on the palate. Drink now or keep for up to 2 years.
NEDERBURG AUCTION RESERVE EDELKEUR 2000
AVERAGE AUCTION PRICE: R101.88
Peaches and cream on the nose. Very sweet, with unctuous, oily mouthfeel. Good flavour con- centration, lovely balance and long finish. Drink now or keep for up to 4 years.
NEDERBURG NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2002
CELLAR PRICE: R35.28
Peach and apricot on the nose. Succulent, big mouthfeel. Good fruit profile, good balance between sugar and acid but little botrytis character. Drink now or keep for up to 2 years.
BON COURAGE NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2002
CELLAR PRICE: R49.00
Complex nose. Honey and beeswax aromas as well as jasmine. Light-bodied with fresh, bright acids balanced by vigorous apricot flavours. A luscious wine. Drink now or keep for up to 2 years.
SLANGHOEK NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R70.00
Big botrytis nose with apricots, pineapple and honey aromas. Very sweet and soft on the palate, perhaps lacking a thread of acid. Lighter style, being graceful not powerful. Drink now.
CAPE POINT NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R92.00
Tangy apricot and spice on the nose. Gorgeous botrytis. The palate has a grassy, herbal character with elegant, precise flavours. Sémillon prominent. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
T NOBLE LATE HARVEST 2000 (KEN FORRESTER)
APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R111.00
Peaches and cream aromas on the nose. Medium-bodied, with lovely balance and creamy texture. Uncork now or resist temptation for up to 3 years.
Beaumont Goutte d'Or 2001 R55.00
Simonsig Vin de Liza Noble Late Harvest 2002 R75.00
Spier Private Collection Noble Late Harvest 2000 R80.00
Onyx Noble Late Harvest 2002 R90.00
Avontuur Above Royalty 2000 R98.00
Asara Noble Late Harvest 2002 R110.00
De Wetshof Edeloes 2000 R173.00
Rudera CWG 2002 (average CWG auction price) R194.12
Bon Courage Noble Late Harvest 2001 R49.00
Villiera Inspiration Noble Late Harvest 2001 SO R55.00
Kanu Kia-Ora Noble Late Harvest 2001 R62.00
Neethlingshof Weisser Riesling NLH 2001 SO R70.00
Rudera Noble Late Harvest 2002 R99.00
L'Avenir Vin de Meurver 2000 R65.00
Robertson Almond Grove Riesling Wide River Noble Late Harvest 2001 R27,50
Nederburg Auction Reserve Eminence 2000 R62,32 (average price per bottle at the 2003 Nederburg Auction)
NATURAL SWEET WINES
JOOSTENBERG NATURAL SWEET 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R50.00
On the nose, cream and tropical fruit. Full-bodied with rich, ripe flavours and good balance. Long, zesty finish. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
KLEIN CONSTANTIA VIN DE CONSTANCE NATURAL SWEET WINE 1997
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R220.00
Made in a serious style. Complex nose, layered with aromas including honey and marmalade. On the palate, an earthy, almost mushroom quality. Big mouthfeel and very tangy. Oak tannins noticeable. Very dry finish. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
Meerendal Natural Sweet 1999 R20.00
Bon Courage Weisser Riesling Natural Sweet 2002 R35.00
Buitenverwachting Natural Sweet 2000 R50.00
STRAW WINES
DE TRAFFORD STRAW WINE 2001
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R120.00
Complex nose showing coconut, barley sugar, honey and tropical fruit including pineapple. Lots of flavour concentration and good balance on the palate. Well-rounded mouthfeel: silky and supple. Very sweet. Long finish. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
Sylvanvale Vine-Dried Chenin Blanc 2000 R95.00
WHITE MUSCADEL WINE
BOLAND MUSKADEL 1997
CELLAR PRICE: R25.00
Distinctively old style. Raisins, nuts and honey on the nose. Beautiful fruit, as well as some caramel on the palate. Showing bottle age. Very sweet with silky mouthfeel. Long finish. Drink now or keep for up to 5 years.
BAKENSKOP WIT VOLSOET MUSKADEL 2000
CELLAR PRICE: R17.70
Muscat along with resinous, treacle aromas on the nose. A fat, lush mouthfeel. Spirit prominent on finish. Drink now or keep for up to 5 years.
NUY MUSCADEL 2002
CELLAR PRICE: R17.10
On the nose, a hint of eucalyptus and honey as well as typical grapy aromas. Good fruit on the palate. Very sweet but balanced by acid. Long finish, with spirit lending grip. Drink now or keep for up to 5 years.
AVONDALE MUSCAT BLANC 2001
CELLAR PRICE: R27.60
Complex nose showing Muscat, honey and spice. Rich grapy flavours. Lush mouthfeel. Very young, needs time. Keep for up to 5 years.
BOLAND MUSKADEL 1995
CELLAR PRICE: R35.00
Shows typical qualities of older Muscadel with marmalade and caramel notes on the nose. Also some floor polish! On the palate, sweet and tangy. Good balance, with a well-rounded mouthfeel: soft and smooth. Long finish, complex and dry. Drink now.
Roodezandt Wit Muskadel 2000 R17.00
Boplaas Muscadel Reserve 2002 R28.00
Rhona Muscadel 1998 (Graham Beck) R35.00
Rooiberg White Muscadel 2000 R17.00
Grundheim Wit Muskadel 1998 R20.00
Goue Vallei Wit Muskadel NV R21.80
Bon Courage White Muscadel 2003 R25.00
Rhona Muscadel 1999 (Graham Beck) R35.00
Rietrivier Montagu White Muskadel 2002 R13.72
Clairvaux Madonna's Kisses White Muscadel 2002 R24.00
Danie de Wet Cape Muscadel Liqueur Wine 2000 (De Wetshof) R116.00
Jonkheer Muscatheer Muscat d'Frontignan 2000 R18.70
De Krans Reserve White Muscadel 2002 ARP R22.86
Also tasted:
Mons Ruber Elusivo Muscadel 1989 R40.00
RED MUSCADEL WINE
MONIS VINTAGE MUSCADEL 1992
APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R40.00
Rich mahogany in colour. On the nose, some varnish as well as spice, nuts and raisins. Very flavourful and complex on the palate, reminiscent of prune juice. Thick and rich mouthfeel. Great balance between sugar and acid. Mellowed and regal. Drink now.
BOLAND ROOI MUSKADEL 1997
CELLAR PRICE: R40.00
Old style. Complex nose with typical fruit as well as raisin and nut aromas. Silky and seductive on the palate: glycerol noticeable. Lots of fruit. Long, sweet finish. Drink now or keep for up to 3 years.
Rooiberg Red Muscadel 2001 R17.00
Roodezandt Rooi Muskadel 2001 R17.00
Du Toitskloof Red Muscadel 2001 R19.16
Grundheim Red Muscadel 1994 R22.00
Rietrivier Montagu Red Muscadel 2002 R13.72
Nuy Muskadel 2002 R17.10
Bakenskop Rooi Volsoet Muskadel 2002 R17.70
Van Loveren Red Muscadel 2002 R21.50
Montagu Muskadel 2002 R17.00
Slanghoek Rooi Muskadel 2002 R22.00
Grundheim Red Muscat 1995 R24.00
Rietvallei Muscadel 2001 R28.50
Rijkshof Red Muscadel NV R20.00
FERMENTED JEREPIGO
Landskroon Morio Muscat 2003 R27.00
De Krans White Muscadel Jerepigo 2002 ARP R30.16
Boplaas Bonaparte Red Dessert 1989 (average CWG auction price) R400.00
Prices: All ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP: Approximate retail price
SO: Sold out ex-cellar
WINE TASTERS: Cape Wine Masters Tony Mossop (Chairman), Allan Mullins and Irina von Holdt with Darling Cellars cellarmaster Abé Beukes and Klein Constantia winemaker Ross Gower.
PROCEDURES: Tasting done "blind". Wines poured at 18°C (reds), 14°C (whites). The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 or 17; 3 Star = 15; 2 Star = 14; 1 Star = 13; No Star = less than 13. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus. Wine identities not revealed to panellists until publication of the assessments.
Superlative wine, a masterpiece. World-class.
Excellent, wine of distinction. Recommended for special occasions
and cellaring.
Good to very good. Fine character and style. Suitable for cellaring.
Above average. Appealing.
Average. Acceptable.
