Buying guide: Dessert wine (unfortified)
The history of unfortified sweet wine in the modern era of South Africa is relatively short: Paarl winery Nederburg pioneered the way in 1969 with the first vintage of its acclaimed botrytis-influenced Edelkeur.
Though Noble Late Harvest, Natural Sweet and Vin de Paille (straw wine) are all styles of what are affectionately known as “stickies”, the conditions necessary for production are suitably different for each category to be discussed on its own merits. What gives Noble Late Harvest wines their hallmark of complexity is “noble rot” – the fungal growth botrytis cinerea, which concentrates acid and sugar in grapes while also increasing the viscosity (due to the production of glycerol) and altering the aromas and flavour of the finished wine.
Various factors differentiate mediocre from great Noble Late Harvest: botrytis tends to arrive late in the season – if the producer waits too long, the harvest might be lost altogether; pick too early and the resulting wine can be insipid. Moreover, botrytis performs patchily, meaning that producers must often use a portion comprising berries that are healthy but give less complex flavour to make up volume. In addition, undesirable grey rot can be difficult to eliminate.
Of the 30 examples reviewed in our annual blind tasting of the category, there was an inevitable spread of quality – six were rated “excellent” (4 Stars) but equally there were five considered rather average (2 Stars or less).
The panel felt that there was a broad divide between a richer, more traditional style and a lighter, more modern style. Problem was that the former were often cloyingly sweet and over-oaked while the latter were lacking in concentration and tending towards bland – great dessert wine should offer real interest without being difficult to drink.
Of all the examples on display, Delheim Edelspatz 2007 deserves special mention. Having won the trophy for best in class at the 2008 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, it again performed well with the WINE magazine panel, rating 4 Stars.
Whereas Noble Late Harvest wines must have a residual sugar of at least 50g/l, wines classified as Natural Sweet require a minimum sugar level of only 30g/l and botrytis character is not a prerequisite. This makes the category something of a catch-all, allowing for easy-drinking wines of no great complexity as well as wines of real profundity such as Klein Constantia’s acclaimed Vin de Constance.
Then there’s Vin de Paille, which should be made from naturally dried grapes, either dried on straw mats or allowed to shrivel on the vine (minimum sugar being 30g/l). The spiritual home of these wines is Hermitage – renowned producer Gérard Chave revived the practice with healthy, not late-picked, Marsanne grapes in 1974, dried on straw in the attic, and various other producers followed suit.
Unlike botrytised wine, straw wine is a style that any winemaker can experiment with. Locally, David Trafford was a trailblazer, first to get a wine classified as Vin de Paille in 1997 and his 2001 vintage subsequently rating 5 Stars in WINE magazine.
Ronel Wiid of Stellenbosch farm Hazendal turned her hand to making straw wine under the witty name of The Last Straw in 2003, and now her 2005 vintage has also achieved our ultimate accolade of 5 Stars.
Of interest is just how much the yield is reduced during the desiccation process: one ton of grapes usually produces around 750 litres of juice, while in the case of The Last Straw, less than 100 litres per ton are obtained. That it costs R100 per 375ml bottle suddenly all makes sense.
Noble Late Harvest
Nederburg 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R59
Citrus, dried fruit and honey on the nose.
Concentrated and rich on the palate, balanced
by fresh acidity. Drink now or over
the next 5 years.
CE 16 RP 17.5 CR 16 AM 16 JP 16
Neethlingshof Lord Neethling
Weisser Riesling 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Dried peach, pineapple and honey on the
nose. Relatively medium-bodied palate.
Elegant and balanced thanks to zesty acidity.
Drink now or over the next 3 years.
CE 17 RP 16 CR 16 AM 16 JP 15
Delheim Edelspatz Botrytis 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Forthcoming nose with pineapple and a hint
of terpene. The palate is pure and intense
with layers of flavour and zesty acidity. Long
finish.
Drink now or over the next 5 years.
CE 16 RP 17 CR 16 AM 17 JP 16
Kanu Kia-Ora 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R90
Pineapple and grapefruit on the nose, as
well as noticeable oak. Intense sweet-sour
flavours matched by fresh acidity.
Viscous mouthfeel.
Long finish.
CE 13 RP 18 CR 18 AM 18 JP 16.5
Fleur du Cap 2005
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R99
Nose shows caramel and citrus as well
as some perfumed notes. Super-rich and
intense but balanced by fresh acidity.
Drink now or over the next 2 years.
CE 18 RP 16.5 CR 15.5 AM 15.5 JP 15.5
Nederburg Edelkeur 2007
NEDERBURG AUCTION WINE
Dried apricots and peaches as well as honey
on the nose and palate. Very concentrated,
rich and powerful. Balanced by racy acidity.
Drink now or over the next 10 years.
CE 18 RP 15.5 CR 16 AM 14.5 JP 16
Van Loveren Signature Series R46
Reserve Rhine Riesling 2006
Lourensford Semillon 2005 SO R90
Simonsig Vin de Liza 2006 (187ml) R92
Beaumont Goutte d’Or 2006 R95
Jordan Mellifera 2006 R95
Klein Constantia R120
Rhine Riesling 2006 (187ml)
Nederburg Eminence 2007 NAW
Simonsig Vin de Liza R92
Chenin Blanc 2006 (187ml)
Slanghoek 2005 (500ml) R95
Asara 2003 R100
Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2006
(500ml) R120
Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling 2007 R150
De Wetshof Edeloes 1998 (500ml) R518
Eikendal Chenin Blanc 2006 R73
Villiera Cellar Door Rhine Riesling 2005 R75
Joostenberg Chenin Blanc 2007 R95
Fort Simon Platinum Collection R99
Viognier 2006
Rudera Chenin Blanc 2005 ARP R142
T Noble 2006 (Ken Forrester) ARP R182
Robertson Almond Grove R34.95
Limited Release 2007
Slaley Chardonnay 2006 R45
Hillcrest Chardonnay 2005 R70
Also tasted
Hartenberg Weisser Riesling 2004 R60
Corked
Villiera Inspiration R96
Chenin Blanc 2005 ARP
NATURAL SWEET
Klein Constantia,
Vin de Constance 2004
CELLAR PRICE: R295 (500ml)
Typical Muscat perfume on the nose – floral
and spice notes. Intensely flavoured but medium
bodied and elegant. Long, dry finish.
Drink now or over the next 6 years.
CE 18 RP 16.5 CR 16 AM 16 JP 14
Meerendal Chenin Blanc 2006 R90
Delheim Rhine Riesling R25
Chenin Blanc 2006
Delheim Rhine Riesling 2005 R40
Buitenverwachting R80
Muscat de Frontignan 2006 (500ml)
Groot Constantia R180
Grand Constance 2005
Kaapzicht Old Bush Vine R40
Chenin Blanc 2007* (750ml)
Buitenverwachting R50
Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Heaven on Earth R50.06
Organic Sweet Wine (Stellar) NV
Slanghoek Private Selection R22
Crème de Chenin 2006 (500ml)
Hoopenburg Integer R66.50
Sauvignon Blanc 2006 ARP
STRAW WINE
Hazendal The Last Straw 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R100
Forthcoming nose of dried apricot and
peach. Excellent purity of fruit on the palate
matched by tangy acidity. Layers of flavour
including caramel, citrus, apricot and peach.
Viscous in texture but finishes long and dry.
Drink now or over the next 7 years.
CE 18 RP 19 CR 19 AM 18 JP 15.5
Fairview La Beryl Blanc 2007 CELLAR PRICE: R90 (500ml)
Delicate citrus nose. Sweet-sour flavours on
the palate. Medium bodied with fresh acidity.
Drink now or over the next 5 years.
CE 15.5 RP 15.5 CR 17 AM 16 JP 16
Quoin Rock Vine Dried
Sauvignon Blanc 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R120 (500ml)
Dark in colour. Nose shows citrus and toffee
and some oxidative character. Palate shows
weight and depth balanced by vibrant acidity.
Drink now or over the next 3 years.
CE 17 RP 17 CR 17 AM 14.5 JP 14
TMV Vin Pi NV
(Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards)
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R263.50
Barley sugar and spice on the nose.
Extremely rich and textured on the palate.
Appealing oxidative character. Drink now
or at own discretion.
CE 18 RP 16.5 CR 16 AM 15 JP 14
De Trafford 2006 SO R180
Waterford The Family Reserve R95 Heatherleigh NV
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price –
all ex-cellar and 375 ml bottles unless
otherwise stipulated.
NV Non vintage
NAW Nederburg auction wine
ARP Approximate retail price
SO Sold out ex-cellar
* Bottled under screwcap
WINE TASTERS: WINE magazine editor
Christian Eedes (chairman) (CE), retailer
Roland Peens of wine cellar (RP), Cape
Wine Masters Christine Rudman (CR)
and Allan Mullins of retailer Woolworths
(AM) with Aubergine sommelier Jörg
Pfützner (JP)
