Buying guide: Chenin Blanc Challenge
About the category: Chenin Blanc is probably the world’s most versatile grape variety, capable of producing wines in all manner of styles and at all levels of the market.
Chenin Blanc is traditionally associated with the Loire Valley in France, the appellation of Savennières renowned for its fine dry Chenin and Vouvray offering wines that range from seemingly dry to sweet depending on the vintage and the treatment.
Though plantings have decreased from 32% of SA’s total vineyard area in 1990 to under 19% in 2009, Chenin remains SA’s most widely planted grape. Its dominance was originally due to its commercial reliability. However, since the mid 1990s, there have been concerted efforts to see Cape Chenin considered among the world’s greatest wines.
A huge advantage for winemakers in pursuit of complexity is access to relatively old vines: in 2008 over 40% of Chenin Blanc plantings were over 20 years old, compared to 27% of all white wine vineyards and only 5% of South Africa’s red wine resource.
Judging procedures:There were 111 entries in total. These were tasted blind (with no indication of vintage, cellar treatment or technical analysis) by the five person panel, scoring done according to the 20-point/5-Star system.
After this first round of judging was concluded, 33 wines were carried forward (including some where the score of a single judge imbued the wine with a right of review). These went through to a second round where the panel could give them more detailed examination.
Once this round was completed, there was one wine that emerged as the outright winner. This was the Perdeberg Rex Equus 2008 which finished on 4½ Stars, improving on its 3½ Stars in the August 2009 issue of Wine magazine. It had the highest average score, and was ranked best by two of the five judges, and second-best by another and third-best by a fourth. There was only one dissenting vote – Master of Wine Cathy van Zyl, who felt that, on the whole, it was just a bit overdone.
Key findings: Since the annual Chenin Blanc Challenge began in 1996 until last year, 13 of the 15 overall winners featured some treatment in barrel. Would 2011’s best wine again be wooded?
Every time a judging panel convenes to assess the Chenin category, the question that must be faced is how much secondary character – whether derived from oxidation or from strategies in the cellar – to tolerate over primary fruit. The variety happily responds to a far greater range of winemaking techniques than most of its counterparts, but because it was used for so long to make refreshingly crisp but otherwise rather bland wine, it’s just about impossible for panels not to plump for the complexity that some time in barrel lends.
However, the flavours that oak imparts, lees contact and deliberate oxidation can make a wine that is cosmetically impressive rather than a source of real drinking pleasure. Let’s not even begin to have the discussion about the point at which winemaking obscures terroir.
So what to reward and what not to reward this time around? At one end of the spectrum, there were wines which were fruit-driven with little or no oak. The best of these were focused and poised, benefi ting from Chenin’s high natural acidity while the lesser wines tended to be lean and simple. At the other end of the spectrum, wines which were heavily worked in barrel, often displaying some botrytis character. The best were rich and full, the lesser cumbersome and tired.
This year’s Chenin Blanc Challenge winner – the Perdeberg Rex Equus 2008 – was indeed wooded, having been fermented and matured in a combination of 30% new, 30% second-fill and 40% third-fill 300-litre barrels for 10 months. The consensus among the panel (Cathy van Zyl excepted) was that this was a very finely judged wine, presenting obviously good fruit to best effect.
Conclusion:
Chenin’s ability to evolve raises the question of how a winner is to be judged – as it is when it comes before the panel, or how it might be in two years time. The fact that the Rex Equus improved on its 2009 score shows that it is now moving onto the plateau of maturity. Time will tell how long it remains there.
Issues such as this, as well as the wide array of legitimate but divergent expressions of Chenin, makes the category difficult to understand. This may be an impediment to it enjoying greater commercial success. Another way of viewing the matter is that while Chenin’s pleasures are not obvious, there is huge reward for those willing to apply themselves in exploring the many different wines made from it. It may never have the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc, but then it will probably always have more intrigue and fascination.
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
Fort Simon 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R60
Alc 13.98% RS 4.6g/ TA 7.4g/ pH 3.12
Bruised apple, vanilla and attractive buttery
note on the nose. The palate shows
flavours of apricot and peach as well as
spice. Juicy on entry with tangy acidity.
Full but complex and balanced. Drink
now – 2014.
MF 15.5 | MC 17 | GdF 16 | CvZ 18 | CE 17.5
Perdeberg Rex Equus 2008
(BEST OVERALL)
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Alc 14.24% RS 6.3g/ TA 7g/ pH 3.27
Citrus, honey, a buttery note and smoky
oak on the nose. The palate is rich and
full with range of flavour from lime
through to apricot and peach, also some
nuttiness. Viscous texture, tangy acidity.
Drink now – 2013.
MF 18.5 | MC 17 | GdF 17 | CvZ 14.5 | CE 17.5
★ ★ ★ ★
Douglas Green 2010* (DGB)
(BEST VALUE)
CELLAR PRICE: R31.50
Alc 13.5% RS 3.3g/ TA 6.1g/ pH 3.39
Unwooded. Honeysuckle, guava and yellow
apple on the nose. Burst of pure fruit
on the palate followed by fresh acidity.
Drink now.
MF 17 | MC 16 | GdF 15 | CvZ 16 | CE 15
Leopard’s Leap 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R34.99
Alc 13.5% RS 1.9g/ TA 6.8g/ pH 3.2
Unwooded. Lime and green apple on the
nose. The palate shows great purity of
fruit and vibrant acidity. Very persistent
fi nish that is almost saline in its dryness.
Drink now – 2013.
MF 14.5 | MC 15 | GdF 14.5 | CvZ 18 | CE 18
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2010*
CELLAR PRICE: R33
Alc 14.33% RS 3g/ TA 6.3g/ pH 3.37
Unwooded. Very primary on the nose with
notes of lime, guava and yellow apple.
The palate shows pure fruit and fresh
acidity. Elegant and sophisticated. Drink
now – 2013.
MF 16.5 | MC 16.5 | GdF 15 | CvZ 15 | CE 17
Kanu 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R35
Alc 13.74% RS 8.9g/ TA 6.7g/ pH 3.45
Unwooded. Citrus blossom, lime and
intriguing wet wool note. The palate is
well balanced with sweet, juicy fruit
matched by fresh acidity. Drink now –
2012.
MF 15 | MC 15.5 | GdF 16 | CvZ 17 | CE 16
Boschendal 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R45
Alc 14% RS 5.6g/ TA 6g/ pH 3.52
Yellow apple, spice and vanilla on the
nose. The palate is rich and broad
but balanced. Sweet on entry but
almost savoury fi nish. Drink now –
2012.
MF 14.5 | MC 14.5 | GdF 15.5 | CvZ 18 | CE 17
Katbakkies 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R70
Alc 13.7% RS 4.75g/ TA 6.05g/ pH 3.28
Vanilla, honey and spice on the nose.
The palate is rich and full with flavours of
apricot, butter and some nuttiness. Extravagant
style that seems quite evolved.
Drink now.
MF 17.5 | MC 17.5 | GdF 16 | CvZ 17 | CE 15
Jordan Barrel Fermented 2009*
CELLAR PRICE: R71.50
Alc 14.83% RS 3.7g/ TA 5.7g/ pH 3.43
Complex nose showing citrus through to
white fruit, also vanilla. Great poise on
the palate with good fruit expression,
soft but sufficient acidity and carefully
judged oak. Elegant and subtle. Drink
now – 2014.
MF 15 | MC 15 | GdF 15.5 | CvZ 17 | CE 18.5
Kanu KCB 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R82
Alc 14.14% RS 11.4g/ TA 6.5g/ pH 3.38
Honey, spice and a buttery note on the
nose. The palate is very rich and full.
Huge palate weight, viscous texture, lots
of secondary character along with flavours
of peach and apricot. Drink now.
MF 17.5 | MC 17 | GdF 16 | CvZ 14.5 | CE 14.5
Graham Beck Bowed Head 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R95
Alc 14.16% RS 4.45g/l TA 6.88g/l pH 3.31
Prominent oak on nose and palate.
Flavours of peach, yellow apple and spice.
Rich and full in style but vibrant acidity
lends balance. Drink 2012 – 2014.
MF 15.5 | MC 16 | GdF 15.5 | CvZ 18 | CE 14.5
Simonsig Avec Chêne 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R127
Alc 14.43% RS 4.7g/l TA 6.4g/l pH 3.5
Yellow apple, honey and vanilla on the
nose. The palate big and bold with very
ripe fruit and tangy acidty. Slight bitterness
on the fi nish. Extravagant style.
Drink now – 2012.
MF 16.5 | MC 16.5 | GdF 15.5 | CvZ 16 | CE 14.5
Rudera ‘Platinum’ 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R150
Alc 14.06% RS 1.7g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.29
The nose shows citrus and an intriguing
wet wool note. The palate is youthful and
shy but appears fi nely handled. Citrus
again in evidence and lively acidity.
Good palate weight. Drink 2012 – 2014.
MF 15.5 | MC 15.5 | GdF 15 | CvZ 16 | CE 17
Rijk’s Private Cellar Reserve 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R160
Alc 14.65% RS 8g/l TA 6.5g/l pH 3.24
Vanilla, honey, butterscotch and spice on
the nose. Sweet on entry but tangy acidity
follows. A rich, ripe, extravagant style.
Drink now.
MF 16 | MC 16.5 | GdF 17 | CvZ 16 | CE 15
★ ★ ★ ✩
Alvi’s Drift Premium Selection 2010 R30
Koelenbosch Houtverouderd 2009* R35
Allée Bleue 2010* R39
Springfontein Terrior Selection 2010 R74
Simonsig Woolworths
Limited Release 2009 R84.95
Rijk’s Private Cellar
Barrel Fermented 2008 R90
Oldenburg Vineyards 2010* ARP R98
Leopard Frog Spellbinding Proprietor’s
Limited Release NV R100
Rudera ‘De Tradisie’ 2009 R100
Rudera ‘Robusto’ 2009 R100
Teddy Hall Reserve 2009 R110
De Morgenzon Reserve 2009 R150
Rijk’s Private Cellar Reserve 2008 R160
The Bernard Series Old Vine 2009*
(Bellingham) ARP R106
★ ★ ★
White River Fairtrade 2010* (Bergsig) R32
Meerkat 2010*
(Schalk Burger & Sons) R35
Simonsig 2010* R36
Perdeberg Reserve 2010* R36.50
Virgin Earth 2010* (Havana Hills) R42
Zevenwacht Barrel Fermented 2010* R42
Arniston Bay
Barrel Fermented Reserve 2009*
(the company of wine people) ARP R43
Fortress Hill 2009 R44
Knorhoek 2009* R45
MAN Vintners (Steen) 2010* R45
Orange River Cellars
De Barrique 2010 R45
Painted Wolf ‘The Den’ 2010* R45
Hazendal Wooded 2007 R46
Mooiplaas Bush Vines 2010 R50
Old Vines 2009 R50
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 2009* R59
Ken Forrester
Woolworths Reserve 2009 ARP R59.95
Cathedral Cellar 2009* (KWV) R66
Rijk’s Private Cellar
With a touch of Oak 2009 R70
Tormentoso Old Vine 2010* R70
Tierhoek 2009 R75
Villiera Traditional
Barrel Fermented 2010 R76.80
Dewaldt Heyns 2009 (Saronsberg) R87
Spier Private Collection 2009* R96
Jean Daneel Signature 2009 R113
Mooiplaas Houmoed Bushvine 2009 R120
Land of Hope 2009*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R125
Cederberg Five Generations 2009 R200
Mulderbosch Small Change 2009 R200
★ ★ ✩
Bovlei Cellar 2010* R22
Villiersdorp Cellar
Dam Good White 2010* R23.50
Obikwa 2010* ARP R24
Du Toitskloof 2010* R25
Monterosso Old Bush Vine 2010* R25
Perdeberg 2010* R26
Riebeek Cellars 2010* R26
Welmoed 2010* R26
Boland Cellar Five Climates 2010* R27
KWV Life Style 2010* R28
Alexanderfontein 2010* R30
Eagle’s Cliff 2010* R30
Five’s Reserve 2010* (Van Loveren) R30.75
Conradie Single Vineyard 2009 R33
Ken Forrester Petit 2010* R33
Indaba 2010* (Cape Classics) ARP R34.99
Pearlstone 2010* (Rhebokskloof) R36.50
Villiera 2010 R36.60
Tukulu Fairtrade 2010* ARP R39.32
Franschhoek Cellar
La Cotte Mill 2010* R40
Essay with a touch of Viognier 2010* R45
Ondine 2009 (Ormonde) R45
Wildekrans 2010* R45
Le Pommier 2010* ARP R46
Rickety Bridge 2010* R48
False Bay 2010* R55
L’Avenir 2010* R55
Maison Vin Maison
Single Vineyard 2010 R65
Rickety Bridge
Paulina’s Reserve 2009* R68
Welbedacht Old Bush Vine Barrel
Fermented 2008*
(Schalk Burger & Sons) R75
Villiera Traditional
Barrel Fermented 2009 R76.80
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2009 R89
Spier Private Collection 2008* R96
Wildekrans Osiris
Barrel Selection 2009 R122
De Trafford Reserve 2009 R140
★ ★
Oranjerivier Cellars 2010* R21.20
Swartland 2010* R23
Slanghoek Private Selection 2010* R26.50
Ayama 2010* (Slent Farms) R28
Groenland 2010* R29
Jason’s Hill 2010 R29
Slowine 2010* (Villiersdorp) R35
Riebeek Reserve 2009 R41
Fleur du Cap 2010* R46.99
Swartland Indalo 2010 R52
Remhoogte 2010* R54
Beaumont 2010 R60
Pepin Condé 2010* (Stark-Condé) R75
Villiera Cellardoor Reserve 2007 R76.80
★
Rietvallei 2010* R35
Saam Mountain 2010* R48
Cederberg 2010* R68
Circumstance 2009* (Waterkloof) R90
One Chenin Blanc tasted did not receive a Star rating.
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap
