Buying guide: Chardonnay

Key findings: Chardonnay is meant to be enjoying resurgence but the Wine magazine panel was a little underwhelmed upon completing this tasting. The one wine to rate 5 Stars was the 2000 vintage of MC Square, an astounding effort on the part of the maverick Jean-Luc Sweerts based in Stellenbosch. But by virtue of being 10 years on from vintage, it doesn’t really tell us anything about the state of the category right now.

 

There were a further four wines rated 4½ Stars and five rated 4 Stars, which can hardly be termed a poor showing, but there was simultaneously also a sense that there were far too many wines that managed to be technically correct and nothing more.

With dedicated Chardonnay producers having attracted some good media reviews in recent times, there’s a sense of less-committed producers jumping on the bandwagon and the category seems to be suffering from a lack of focus, a lot of different styles in evidence, not all of them equally successful.

While exceptionally rich and oaky Chardonnay has thankfully gone out of fashion, there are now too many that seem to be sitting at the other end of the stylistic spectrum in the sense of being particularly lean and dry; these wines lacking varietal typicity and instead coming across as generic dry white. Conversely, there were other wines that presented as overly sweet, and while this is no doubt commercially motivated, again this is not true to the variety.

The best wines had great fruit expression, the product fi rstly of appropriate site selection but also a coherent aesthetic vision on the part of the winemaker. Given that Chardonnay can be legitimately manipulated more than most varieties, whoever’s in charge in the cellar needs a carefully thought-out approach rather than simply hoping for the best.

UNWOODED

★ ★ ★ ✩
Zorgvliet Silver Myn Unwooded 2009* R48

★ ★ ★
Balance Reserve 2010*
(Overhex Wines) R32
Swartland 2010* R32
Weltevrede River’s Edge
Unwooded 2009* R39.90
Brampton Unoaked 2009*
(DGB) ARP R42.95
Woolworths What? 2009*
(Weltevrede) ARP R45
Constantia Uitsig Unwooded 2010* R85

★ ★ ✩
Ashton Kelder Unwooded 2010* R27
McGregor 2010* R28.50
Frisky Zebras Sublime 2009*
(United Nations of Wine Inc.) R30
Landskroon Unwooded 2010* R33
Long Mountain 2010*
(Pernod Ricard SA) ARP R35
The Winery of Good Hope 2009* R42
De Leuwen Jagt 2009* (Seidelberg) R52
Jordan Unoaked 2010* R65
Bouchard Finlayson
Sans Barrique 2009 R100

★ ★
Bovlei Chardonnay 2010* R24.50
The River Garden
by Lourensford 2010* R40
Neethlingshof Unwooded 2009* R44.34
De Meye Unwooded 2010* R45
Dieu Donné Unwooded 2009* R45
Eikendal Janina Unwooded 2009* R45
Kloovenburg Unwooded 2010* R45
Diemersdal Unwooded 2010* R48
Vrede en Lust Sarah 2010* R48
Glenwood Unwooded 2010 R60
Groote Post Unwooded 2009 R62

One unwooded Chardonnay did not receive a star rating.

WOODED

★ ★ ★ ★ ★
MC Square Cuvée 2000
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R420
Alc 13.7% RS 4g/TA 6.9g/ pH 3.2
Vivid yellow-gold with a green tinge in
colour. Pleasing evolution on the nose and
palate to go with great fruit expression and
fresh acidity. Notes of citrus, honey, nuts
and oatmeal. Rich and full with a savoury
finish. Drink now.
CE 19 | AL 19 | AM 18.5 | CA 18.5 | JD 18.5

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
Louisvale 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Alc 13.06% RS 2.g/TA 6.1g/pH 3.2
The nose shows ripe fruit, some leesy
character and the fi rst signs of some
bottle age. The palate is full with juicy
fruit, bright acidity and well-judged oak.
Finishes long and dry. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16.5 | AL 17 | AM 17 | CA 18 | JD 17.5

Diemersdal Reserve 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R90
Alc 12.8% RS 2.8g/ TA 5.5g/pH 3.6
Citrus and toasty oak on the nose. The
palate is rich and ripe with relatively soft
acidity. Flavours of lime, lemon and pineapple.
Very appealing. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16.5 | AL 18 | AM 16.5 | CA 18 | JD 16.5

Graham Beck Lonehill 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R105
Alc 13.2% RS 5.06g/TA 5.93g/pH 3.39
The nose is somewhat shy but the palate
shows excellent fruit expression with the
oak lending good support and acidity soft
but suffi cient. Very elegant with a long,
dry fi nish. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | AL 18.5 | AM 16.5 | CA 16 | JD 18

Hamilton Russell Vineyards 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R275
Alc 13% RS 2.97g/ TA 7.1g/pH 3.12
Complex nose showing citrus and some
burnt matchstick. The palate shows juicy
lime fruit and a great line of acidity. Oak
well judged and a leesy note adds interest.
Drink 2011 – 2014.
CE 16.5 | AL 18 | AM 17 | CA 17 | JD 17.5

★ ★ ★ ★
Hoopenburg Bush Vine 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R48
Alc 13.5% RS 1.6g/TA 6g/pH 3.44
The nose shows citrus and some oak spice
while the palate is medium bodied and
well balanced with juicy fruit, fresh acidity
and well judged oak. Drink now – 2011.
CE 16.5 | AL 15.5 | AM 17.5 | CA 17 | JD 16.5

Ondine 2009
ORMONDE PRICE: R54
Alc 13.67% RS 1.5g/TA 6.1g/pH 3.59
Citrus blossom and limes on the nose while
the palate is medium-bodied, elegant and
still very primary. Has an appealing pithiness
on the fi nish. Drink 2011 – 2012.
CE 18 | AL 15.5 | AM 16 | CA 16 | JD 16

Van Loveren Wolverine Creek
Reserve 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R55.33
Alc 14% RS 3.8g/l TA 6.2g/l pH 3.42
Honey and oak-derived vanilla notes on
the nose, while the palate is sweet, rich
and full with a smooth texture balanced
by fresh acidity. Drink now – 2011.
CE 15.5 | AL 16.5 | AM 17.5 | CA 16 | JD 16.5

Nederburg Private Bin
D270 2007
AUCTION PRICE: R75
Alc 13.63% RS 2.53g/l TA 6.16g/l pH 3.4
The nose shows citrus and some nutty
bottle-aged character. On the palate,
there’s juicy fruit and zesty acidity. There’s
citrus but also more exotic flavours like
pineapple and mint. Drink now – 2011.
CE 16 | AL 15.5 | AM 16.5 | CA 18 | JD 16

Nederburg Manor House 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R97
Alc 12.73% RS 2.7g/l TA 6.5g/l pH 3.35
Some nutty development on nose and
palate. The palate is full-bodied with a
smooth texture and relatively soft acidity.
Juicy lime fruit and some buttery
character. Drink now – 2013.
CE 16 | AL 16 | AM 15.5 | CA 17 | JD 17

★ ★ ★ ✩
Fortress Hill 2008 (Fort Simon) R44
Waterhof Reserve 2008
(Waterstone) ARP R60
Mimosa Barrel Fermented 2009 R75
Saronsberg 2008 R80
Thelema 2008* R85
Vrede en Lust Marguerite 2009* R85
Bellingham Chardonnay with a splash of
Viognier 2008 (DGB) ARP R90
Glen Carlou 2009* R90
Hoopenburg Integer 2007 ARP R90
Sterhuis Barrel Selection 2009 R90
Oak Valley 2009 R120
Delheim Sur Lie 2009 R125
Bouchard Finlayson
Missionvale 2009 R132
Crystallum Clay Shales 2008 ARP R230

★ ★ ★
Slanghoek Private Selection 2010* R32.50
Zonnebloem 2009*
(Bergkelder) ARP R45.99
Nederburg
The Winemaster’s Reserve 2009 R48
Christina van Loveren 2009
(Van Loveren) R55.33
Le Bonheur 2009 ARP R57.60
Boschendal 1685 2009 (DGB) ARP R60
Stellenzicht
Golden Triangle 2007 ARP R62.21
Koelfontein 2008 R63.50
Rickety Bridge 2008* R65
Simonsig 2009 R68
Edgebaston 2009*
(Finlayson Family Vineyards) R75
Hartenberg 2008 R75
Lanzerac 2009 R75
Amani 2008 R80
Groote Post Reserve 2009 R85
Thelema Sutherland 2008* R85
Weltevrede
Woolworths Limited Release 2008 ARP R89
Mulderbosch 2007 R90
Napier Saint Catherine 2008 R100
Tokara Reserve Collection
Walker Bay 2009* R100
Whalehaven 2007 R102
Journey’s End 2008 R110
Neil Ellis Elgin 2009* R120
Sumaridge 2009 R130
Rustenberg 2009* R135
Bouchard Finlayson Limited Edition
Kaaimansgat 2009 R140
Iona 2009 R147.50
Journey’s End Destination 2006 R150
Mulderbosch Barrel Fermented 2007 R185
Uva Mira Single Vineyard 2009 R200
Jordan Nine Yards 2009 R208
Glen Carlou Quartz Stone 2009 R275

★ ★ ✩
Rooiberg 2010* R30
Two Oceans 2009 ARP R30
Van Loveren 2010 R30.83
Drostdy-Hof
Winemakers Collection 2009 ARP R32
Douglas Green
Vineyard Creations 2009* (DGB) ARP R38
Merwida 2009* R40
Suikerbosch Reserve 2009 (Zidela) R40
Under Oaks Limited Release 2010* R49
Durbanville Hills 2009* R50
Kranskop 2008 R50
Journey’s End Haystack 2009* R55
L’Avenir 2009* (Laroche) R55
Bergsig 2009 R57
Delheim 2009* R60
Rhebokskloof 2009 R62
Seidelberg 2009* R68
Beau Joubert 2009* R70
Lord’s Barrel Fermented 2009 R70
Lourensford
Winemaker’s Selection 2008 R80
Dombeya 2009 R85
Durbanville Hills Rhinofi elds 2009 R93
Fleur Du Cap Unfi ltered 2009* R93
Spier Private Collection 2009* R96
Delaire 2009 R98
Tokara Reserve Collection
Stellenbosch 2009* R100
Jordan Barrel Fermented 2009* R103.50
Bouchard Finlayson Crocodile’s Lair/
Kaaimansgat 2009 R106
Journey’s End 2009* R110
Groot Constantia Gouverneurs 2009 R113
Cape Point Vineyards 2008 R125
Grande Provence 2009* R125
Radford Dale 2008*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R130
Môreson Premium 2009 R135

★ ★
Obikwa 2009* ARP R23
Du Toitskloof 2010* R31
Jason’s Hill 2009 R32
Welmoed 2010*
(the company of wine people) R32
Nietvoorbij Wooded 2010 R35
Excelsior 2010* R38.50
Hill and Dale 2010*
(Stellenzicht) ARP R39.99
Badsberg Sur Lie 2009 R46
Conradie Family Vineyards
Single Vineyard 2009 R48
Slaley 2009 R50
KWV Reserve 2009 R56
Bergsig 2008 R57
Pulpit Rock Reserve 2008 R60
Golden Kaan
Private Collection 2008 (KWV) R62
Laborie Limited Collection 2009 R62
KWV Cathedral Cellar 2009 R68
Uitkyk 2008 ARP R68.68
DMZ 2009* (De Morgenzon) R70
Amani 2007 R75
Graham Beck 2009* R75
La Bri 2009 R75
Morgenhof 2009 R75
Clos Malverne 2009 R76
Weltevrede Place of Rocks 2008 R79
Eikendal 2009 R80
Lourensford
Winemaker’s Selection 2009 R80
Steenberg HMS Sphynx 2010* R80
Neil Ellis Stellenbosch 2009* R85
Fort Simon 2008 R87
Weltevrede Rusted Soil 2008 R89
Muratie Isabella 2009* R90
Bartinney 2008 R95
Crystallum The Agnes 2009 ARP R150
GlenWood Vigneron’s Selection 2009 R150
Havana Hills Kobus 2010 R150

★
Darling Cellars Quercus Gold 2010* R35
Rooiberg Reserve 2008 R47
Hillcrest 2008* R55
Hillcrest 2009* R55
Backsberg 2008* R57
Lategan Family Reserve
Barrel Aged 2008 (Bergsig) R57
Dieu Donné 2007 R60
Lourensford 2009* R65
Nitida 2010* R75
La Motte 2009* R95
Elgin Vintners Second Edition 2009* R110
Warwick 2009

Nine wooded Chardonnays did not receive a Star rating.

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price – all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap