Buying guide: Cap Classique Challenge

Cap Classique Challenge

About the category: Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) is the South African term to describe sparkling wines made by undergoing a secondary fermentation in bottle, the method traditionally associated with the Champagne region in France. The wines are given their bubbles by carbon dioxide, a by-product of the fermentation process that is allowed to escape during the normal winemaking process. The category has enjoyed phenomenal growth in recent times: total sales in 2008 were 196 000 cases compared to just under 78 000 in 2001.

Key findings: Two broad styles were in evidence. The first involved wines showing an overt lemon-zest character, typically quite lean with fresh acidity and a long, dry finish; the second wines that were fuller, fatter and more developed, often exhibiting some oak influence.

Both styles are equally legitimate, the first perhaps more suited as aperitif, the second with lighter food. It is noteworthy that along with the category's growth in volume, prices have climbed as well: the average price per 750ml bottle of the 46 wines assessed in the 2007 Challenge was R82, of the 48 wines in 2008 R104, and of the 70 wines this year R115.

Panellist Allan Mullins, who consults for retail chain Woolworths and is hence inclined to be particularly price sensitive, nevertheless suggested that this increase in average asking price was thoroughly deserved as quality improvements had more than kept pace.

Soundbite: "The wines generally showed much more freshness than a few years ago - this stuff doesn't stick around on supermarket shelves anymore." - Allan Mullins of Woolworths.

JUDGING PROCEDURES

There were 70 entries in total. These were tasted according to the sub-categories of Non-Vintage, Vintage, Blanc de Blancs and Rosé but otherwise blind by the fiveperson panel, with scoring done according to the 20-point/5 Star system. After this first round of judging was concluded, five wines were considered to have particular distinction and these went through to a second round where the panel could give them more detailed examination.

Once this round was completed, there was one wine that emerged as the outright winner on the basis of having the highest arithmetic average score, this being the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005, in 750ml bottle and disgorged on 21 July 2007. Followers of the category will be intrigued to note that the wine that placed second was also the Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005, different only in that this version was bottled in magnum and disgorged on 16 April 2009.

For the first time ever, it was decided to acknowledge the best in each of the Non-Vintage, Rosé and Blanc de Blancs subcategories, again highest arithmetic average score being used to determine the outcome in each instance. In the case of Best Blanc de Blancs, where there was a tie, the award went to Klein Constantia Brut 2006 on the basis that the majority of judges scored this wine higher.

A Top 10 is also presented in order to draw attention to the depth of quality and breadth of styles that Méthode Cap Classique displays.

AWARDS
Best Non-Vintage
Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut Entheos
Best Rosé
Ross Gower Pinot Noir Brut 2007
Best Blanc de Blancs
Klein Constantia Brut 2006
Best Vintage, Best Overall
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005

BEST VALUE - TOP 10 CAP CLASSIQUE
Wines rated 2½ Stars or better recommended for particularly good value on the
basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price per bottle of
the 70 wines assessed:
Name of wine Rating Price
1. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005 4½ Stars R 76
2. Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut Entheos 3½ Stars R 60
3. Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2006 3½ Stars R 65
4. J.C. Le Roux Pinot Noir 2007 3½ Stars R 73
5. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005 (1.5l) 4 Stars R 170
6. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2006 3½ Stars R 76
7. Kumkani In niti Brut 2004 (the company of wine people) 3 Stars R 70
8. Bon Courage Jacques Bruére Blanc de Blancs 2006 3½ Stars R 85
9. Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 2005 3 Stars R 75
9. Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 2006 3 Stars R 75

ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR?
Average price per 750ml of the 70 Cap Classique wines assessed: R115
Price of the 1 wine rated 4½ Stars: R76
Average price per 750ml of the 4 wines rated 4 Stars: R166
Average price per 750ml of the 12 wines rated 3½ Stars: R117
Average price per 750ml of the 27 wines rated 3 Stars: R122
Average price per 750ml of the 12 wines rated 2½ Stars: R95
Average price per 750ml of the 14 wines rated less than 2½ Stars: R105

CAP CLASSIQUE CHALLENGE WINNERS TO DATE
2009 - Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005
2008 - J.C. Le Roux Pinot Noir Rosé 2006
2007 - Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay 1994 (magnum)
2006 - Desiderius Pongrácz 2001
2005 - Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2000
2004 - Jacques Bruére Brut Reserve 2000
2003 - Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut 1999
2002 - Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1999

THE TOP 10 (in order of star rating,
then ascending price)
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005
CE LLAR PRICE R76
Alc 12.45 RS 7.86 TA 7.17 pH 3.11
Straw yellow. Pleasing developed character
on the nose. The palate is rich and full.
Flavours of citrus but also some yeasty,
leesy notes. Creamy mouthfeel. Wellintegrated
acidity.
CE 16.5 AM 18.5 CR 16.5 MC 17 HD 16.5

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005
(1.5l)
CE LLAR PRICE R170
Alc 12.19 RS 8.1 TA 7 pH 3.17
Golden yellow. Somewhat shy nose.
Explosive mousse on entry. Rich with soft
acidity. Flavours of brioche, citrus and red
fruit. Long finish.
CE 16 AM 16 CR 17 MC 17.5 HD 17

Klein Constantia Brut 2006
(Best Blanc de Blancs)
CELLAR PRICE R120
Alc 12 RS 5.5 TA 7.1 pH 3.17
Yellow with green tinge. Citrus, blossom and
some yeasty character on the nose. Good
fruit expression and bright acidity on the
palate. Hint of yeastiness. Clean, balanced
and elegant.
CE 15.5 AM 17.5 CR 16.5 MC 16.5 HD 16.5

Desiderius Pongrácz 2001
CELLAR PRICE R213
Alc 11.68 RS 7.8 TA 6 pH 3.18
Pale yellow. The nose shows citrus blossom
and some yeasty notes. The palate is lighter
bodied with citrus and green apple flavours
and fresh acidity. Elegant and remarkably
youthful.
CE 16 AM 16 CR 15.5 MC 17 HD 16.5

Teddy Hall Blanc de Blancs 2005
CELLAR PRICE R245
Alc 12.5 RS 4.5 TA 6.5 pH 3.33
Golden. Developed notes of honey and
nuts on the nose. The palate is complex
and layered, balanced. Flavours of citrus
and brioche. Creamy mouthfeel, bright but
well-integrated acidity. Very expressive with
a long finish.
CE 17 AM 16.5 CR 16 MC 16.5 HD 16.5

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut
Entheos (Best Non-Vintage)
CELLAR PRICE R60
Alc 12.53 RS 8.1 TA 7.1 pH 3.21
Straw yellow. Leesy on the nose and palate.
Rich and sweet entry with soft acidity. A
toasty overlay to good fruit.
CE 14 AM 16 CR 16 MC 16 HD 16

Bon Courage Jacques Bruére
Blanc de Blancs 2006
CELLAR PRICE R85
Alc 12 RS 7 TA 6.9 pH 3.37
Straw yellow. Shy nose. Explosive mousse.
Rich and full on the palate with flavours of
green apple and citrus as well as a chalky
note. Oak apparent but not dominant.
CE 16 AM 14.5 CR 15.5 MC 15.5 HD 16

Hazendal White Nights Brut 2007
CELLAR PRICE R92
Alc 12.5 RS 7 TA 7 pH 3
Pale yellow. Hint of brioche on the nose.
Fine mousse. The palate is youthful with
citrus flavours and lively acidity.
Long finish.
CE 15.5 AM 15 CR 15.5 MC 16 HD 16.5

Ross Gower Pinot Noir Brut 2007
(Best Rosé)
CELLAR PRICE R110
Alc 13.1 RS 6.1 TA 6.8 pH 3.3
Copper in colour. Quirky nose - lots of
wild Pinot character. Explosive mousse.
Flavourful palate showing red fruit. Fresh
acidity.
CE 16 AM 17 CR 16 MC 15 HD 14.5

Waterford 2000
CE LLAR PRICE R295
Alc 12.8 RS 6 TA 5.7 pH 3.35
Golden yellow. Developed, yeasty nose. The
palate is rich and complex with a creamy
mouthfeel but probably at its peak.
CE 15.5 AM 16 CR 15.5 MC 15.5 HD 16

TOP 10 WINES OVERALL
(IN ORDER OF ARITHMETIC
SCORE)
1. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005
2. Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2005 (1.5l)
3. Klein Constantia Brut 2006
3. Teddy Hall Blanc de Blanc 2005
5. Desiderius Pongrácz 2001
6. Hazendal White Nights Brut 2007
6. Waterford 2000
6. Ross Gower Pinot Noir Brut 2007
9. Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut
Entheos
10. Bon Courage Jacques Bruére
Blanc de Blancs 2006

ALSO 3½ STARS
Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2006 R65
J.C. Le Roux Pinot Noir 2007 R73
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2006 R76
Villiera - Woolworths R92.95
The Black Label Vintage Reserve 2004 ARP
Pongrácz Rosé R98
J.C. Le Roux Scintilla R128
Vintage Reserve 2001
Steenberg 1682 Pinot Noir Brut 2006 R225

★ ★ ★ THREE STARS

Graham Beck Brut (375ml) R63
Kumkani Infi niti Brut 2004 R70
(the company of wine people)
Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 2005 (TJG) R75
Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 2006 (TJG) R75
Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut R80
The Ring Blanc de Blancs 2007
Pongrácz R82
Morena Brut Rosé 2007 R85
Môreson Blanc de Blancs Brut R85
Longridge Vintage Select Brut 2007 R85.50
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel R86
Brut Rosé 2007
Môreson Cuvée Cape Brut R89
Bon Courage Jacques Bruére R95
Brut Reserve 2006
Morena Cuvée Catherine 2007 R95
Buitenverwachting Brut R100
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R105
Brut Aletheia 2006
Villiera Monro Brut 2004 ARP R110
Colmant Brut Tradition R115
Des Dieux Claudia 2006 R115
Wildekrans 2007 R115
Anura Brut 2006 R150
Boschendal Grande Cuvée Brut 2006 R150
Guinevere Brut 2005 (Namaqua Wines) R150
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 1993 R169
Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 2005 R169
Graham Beck Brut Rosé 2007 R169
Vergelegen Brut 2006 R200
Graham Beck Brut 1994 (1.5l) R700

★ ★ ✩ TWO AND A HALF STARS
Villiera - Woolworths Brut ARP R69.95
Dieu Donné Brut Blanc de Blancs R75
2007
Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé ARP R75
Villiera - Woolworths R82.95
Blanc de Blancs Brut ARP
Graham Beck Brut R89
Graham Beck Brut Rosé R89
Boschendal Le Grande Pavillon R92
Brut Rosé
Morgenhof Brut Reserve 2005 R98
J.C. Le Roux Pinot Noir Rosé 2007 R99
L'Avenir Brut Rosé 2007 (Laroche) R100
Simonsig Cuvée Royale R120
Blanc de Blancs 2004
Colmant Brut Rosé R145

★ ★ TWO STARS
Villiera Tradition Brut ARP R75
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R80
Brut Lindelize Rosé
Somerbosch R! Rosé Brut 2008 R85
Melanie van der Merwe Tanzanite R95
Brut ARP
Villiera Brut Natural R100
Chardonnay 2007 ARP
Ross Gower Chardonnay Brut 2008 R110
Graham Beck Brut Rosé 2005 R169

ONE STAR
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel 2007 R76
Môreson Brut Rosé R95
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R105
Brut Aletheia 2005
Viljoensdrift Villion R105
Blanc de Blanc 2006
Quoin Rock Cape Agulhas R125
First Release
Graham Beck Cuvée 2000 R169

ALSO TASTED
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R80
Brut The Ring Blanc de Blancs 2006

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price - all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated

ARP Approximate retail price

WINE TASTERS: editor of WINE magazine
Christian Eedes (chair) (CE), Cape Wine
Masters Allan Mullins of Woolworths (AM),
Christine Rudman (CR) and Heidi Duminy
(HD) and Wine Judging Academy graduate
Michael Crossley of Reciprocal (MC).