Buying guide: Cap Classique Challenge

With the completion of the sixth annual WINE magazine Amorim Cork Cap Classique Challenge, some interesting trends are starting to emerge. For one thing, a non-vintage wine has yet to win; for another, the wines that have triumphed all spent a significantly longer time on the lees than the minimum nine months required by law.

The longer bottle-fermented sparkling wine is aged subsequent to the second fermentation the better, because the resulting sediment contains dead yeast cells and the gradual breakdown of these cells gives the wine extra bouquet and flavour. This year the Graham Beck Brut 1994 took the honours, having spent all of 12 years on the lees, before the accumulated sediment was removed according to the process of disgorgement in March 2006.

All this suggests that perhaps it is time for the local authorities to up the minimum period of ageing. Non-vintage Champagne, for instance, may not be disgorged prior to at least one year on the lees, and vintage Champagne not prior to three years.

The classic descriptor for the flavour brought about by the breakdown or autolysis of the dead yeast cells is "brioche", a French bread made with lots of butter and eggs and therefore rich and creamy. Though this character is much prized in bottle-fermented sparkling wine, extended lees contact can mean that any primary fruit expression is lost while, in the worst cases, wines will show dirty flavours.

Addressing this issue, Mike Graham, technical director at African Pride Wines and bubbly expert, felt that generally the wines were very clean with few faults in evidence. He praised winemakers for maximising fruit flavours and observed that in most instances yeast autolysis character was an "enhancing rather than dominating factor". In contrast, Ginette de Fleuriot CWM felt that autolysis-derived flavours were "overbearing" in some of the older wines.

After disgorgement, sparkling wine must be topped up using a deliberately sweetened solution to balance the typically high acidity. This process known as dosage was one area where the panel thought there was room for improvement. Quite a few of the wines were unduly sweet with winemakers apparently not gauging the appropriate amount of sugar needed. Graham warned that winemakers should not view dosage as a "recipe", his point being that "the [level of sugar] that worked one year won't necessarily work the next". Wines also appeared excessively evolved and in some instances almost oxidative, and Graham again commented that there was no need for this. "There's a multitude of ways to freshen up the final wines - sulphur, ascorbic acid, citric acid…"

A few small quibbles aside, the panel was impressed by the high overall standard that this year's line-up displayed. With the category's quality credentials increasingly well established, and consumers coming to realise the value on offer (relative to Champagne), it was no wonder that sales were flying. "It's become a lifestyle rather than a celebratory drink," observed De Fleuriot. "No wonder, as bubbles are the best aperitif in the world!"

 

Cap classique challenge winners to date:

2007 - Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay 1994 (Magnum)
2006 - Desiderius Pongrácz 2001
2005 - Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2000
2004 - Jacques Bruère Brut Reserve 2000
2003 - Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut 1999
2002 - Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1999

Technical analysis of top wine:

Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay 1994 (Magnum)
Wine of origin: Western Cape
Period spent on the lees: 12 years
Date of disgorgement: March 2006
Alc: 11.09% o RS: 7.5g/l
pH: 3.53
TA: 5.3g/l 2252 x 1.5l
R180pb ex-cellar

Best value - top 5

Wines recommended as particularly good value on the basis of their quality/price ratio in the context of the average price (R82) per 750ml of the 46 Cap Classique wines assessed

Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay 1994 (1.5l)
CELLAR PRICE: R180
Nose shows citrus fruit and some developed bees wax character. Palate is complex and characterful. Fruit very well preserved for age. Fine, lively mousse makes for creamy texture. Fresh acid. Drink now or over 2 years.
AM 17 MG 17 GDF 15.5 HD 17 CE 18

Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Slight pink tinge. Ripe red apple nose. Citrus and some red fruit character. Fine, soft mousse and fresh acid. Drink now or over 2 years.
AM 16 MG 17.5 GDF 16 HD 16.5 CE 15

Morena Brut Rosé NV
FRANSCHHOEK PASS PRICE: R69
Light pink. Strawberry and some floral notes on nose. Palate shows pure red fruit and fresh acid. Well balanced and elegant. Drink now.
AM 15.5 MG 18 GDF 16 HD 16 CE 16

Woolworths Villiera Brut 1999
RETAIL PRICE: R75
Nose shows pleasing developed character with notes of biscuit, cream and honey. Palate is evolved, broad and generous but offset by bright acid and still-lively mousse. Toasty, nutty flavours. Drink now.
AM 16 MG 16 GDF 16 HD 17 CE 16

Villiera Monro Brut 2001
RETAIL PRICE: R90
Nose shows brioche character. Palate is full bodied and rich. Creamy mouthfeel. Zesty acid lends freshness. Drink now or over next 2 years.
AM 15.5 MG 16 GDF 16 HD 17 CE 17

Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blancs 2003
CELLAR PRICE: R115
Brioche character on nose. Full bodied and rich. Citrus fruit contrasted by yeasty flavours. Creamy, mouthfilling mousse. Bright acid makes for long, dry finish. Drink now or keep for 3 years.
AM 17 MG 16.5 GDF 17 HD 16 CE 15.5

Graham Beck Brut Chardonnay Pinot Noir NV (1.5l)
CELLAR PRICE: R160
Nose shows brioche and some liquorice. Palate shows array of fruit including citrus, white peach and red berry. Also some yeasty notes. Creamy mousse. Fresh acid lends balance. Drink now or over 5 years.
AM 18 MG 15.5 GDF 16.5 HD 16 CE 16.5

Môreson Brut Blanc de Blanc NV R59
Krone Borealis Cuvée Brut 2001 (Twee Jonge Gezellen) R60
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2006 R65
Woolworths Villiera Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay 2004 RP R65
Jacques Bruère Blanc de Blancs Brut Reserve 2004 (Bon Courage) R70
Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut 2004 R70
Graham Beck Brut NV R79
Scintilla 2000 (JC Le Roux) R111.10
Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blancs 2002 R115
Graham Beck Brut Rosé 2000 (1.5l) R230

Backsberg RD Brut 1999 R50
Villiera Tradition Rosé Brut NV R60
Long Mountain MCC Chardonnay Pinot Noir NVRP R70
Simonsig Brut Rosé 2006 R75
Tanzanite NV R75
Buitenverwachting Brut NV R80
Jacques Bruère Brut Reserve 2003 R80 (Bon Courage)
Villiera Brut Natural Chardonnay 2004 RP R85
Graham Beck Brut Rosé 2005 R115
Villiera Tradition Brut NV (1.5l) RP R120

Morgenhof Brut Reserve 2003 R70
Krone Rosé Brut 2001 (Twee Jonge Gezellen) R90
Krone Rosé Brut 2000 (Twee Jonge Gezellen) R90
Steenberg 1682 Brut NV R95
Ross Gower Pinot Noir Brut 2005 R100
Simonsig Cuvée Royale Blanc de Blancs 1999 R110
Graham Beck Brut Rosè 2004 R115
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2003 (1.5l) R145
Pongràcz Desiderius Brut 2000(JC Le Roux) R180.30

Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2003 R52
Avondale Brut NV R55
Môreson Cuvée Cape Brut NV R67
Môreson Brut Rosé NV R70
Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV R115

Krone Borealis Brut 2002 (Twee Jonge Gezellen) R60
Dieu Donnè Brut 2005 R65
Tanzanite NV R75
Hendrik Lodewyk Brut (Du Preez) NV R75
Woolworths Villiera Brut Natural Chardonnay 2004 RP R80

NOTE: For all disgorgement dates click here.

PRICES: wines in each Star bracket listed in order of ascending price - all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

RP Retail price
NV Non vintage

Wine tasters: Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins of Woolworths (chairman) (AM), with technical director of African Pride wines Mike Graham (MG), Cape Wine Masters Ginette De Fleuriot of retailer Winesense (GDF) and Heidi Duminy of Veuve Cliquot SA (HD) and WINE magazine deputy editor Christian Eedes (CE)