Buying guide: Cap Classique Challenge

Consider that total sales of certified Cap Classique grew from just under 78 000 cases in 2001 to approximately 197 000 cases in 2007, and there can be no doubt that it’s the right product at the right time. Bubbly is bling and bling is king...

However, when it came to judging the 2008 Cap Classique Challenge, sponsored by cork manufacturing company Amorim, there was a vague feeling among the WINE magazine panellists that there were fewer wines of excellence on display than usual.

“A disappointing tasting relative to previous years,” commented Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins, wine selector for retail chain Woolworths and panel chairman. There were only three wines rated 4 Stars and none any higher out of a total of 48 entries, compared to one rated 4½ Stars and a further six rated 4 Stars out of 46 entries in 2007.

That said, 60% of the 2008 line-up rated 3 Stars or better, marginally up from 59% last year. At stake, therefore, was not so much a fundamental downturn in quality but rather fewer stand-out wines. “The wines were all well made but there was little greatness in evidence,” remarked Mullins.

As to why this tasting proved underwhelming, the panel found it difficult to arrive at a definitive explanation. Cape Wine Master Heidi Duminy remarked that she had encountered a number of wines that were “Prosecco-ish”, in the sense of being similar in style to the light, fizzy but not very complex sparkling wines of Veneto, Italy.

This led to debate as to whether or not producers are now attempting to cut corners in order to keep up with rapidly climbing demand, in particular by bringing forward the time of disgorgement. However, while Cap Classique legally need only spend nine months on the lees compared to 12 months in the case of non-vintage Champagne, produces aren’t inclined to cut it that fine. In fact, there were plenty of older wines under review that had undergone an extended period on the lees – the Villiera Monro Brut 2001 disgorged after all of five-and-a-half years, to name but one.

At the other end of the stylistic spectrum, there were examples that were excessively full-fruited. “Chardonnay with fizz is not Cap Classique,” as Cape Wine Master Ginette de Fleuriot put it. Since bubbly is made with a relatively low alcohol by volume in order to facilitate the second fermentation, producers have to pick relatively early. The trick therefore becomes to avoid undue green flavours and achieve grapes of suitable physiological ripeness, and it may just be that some producers are succeeding a little too well.

One sub-category that particularly impressed the panel was Rosé. In the past, local pink bubblies have been something of a niche category, but there are now an increasing number of labels on the market – consumers no doubt initially won over by the attractive colour that these wines typically display and then convinced by the good drinking to be had. Whereas in the past local pink bubbly too often showed candied red fruit and little else, producers are now striving to achieve much greater complexity, and it is well deserved for the JC le Roux Pinot Noir Rosé 2006 to become the first of its kind to win the Cap Classique Challenge since it started in 2002.

JUDGING PROCEDURES
There were 48 entries in total. These were tasted blind by the five-person panel, with scoring throughout done according to the 20 point/5 Star system. Three wines emerged as contenders to win the competition outright and these were re-tasted in a final round with the panellists asked to rank the wines in terms of preference to determine final placings.

CAP CLASSIQUE CHALLENGE WINNERS TO DATE
• 2008 – JC le Roux Pinot Noir Rosé 2006
• 2007 – Graham Beck Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay 1994 (magnum)
• 2006 – Desiderius Pongrácz 2001
• 2005 – Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2000
• 2004 – Jacques Bruère Brut Reserve 2000
• 2003 – Weltevrede Philip Jonker Brut 1999
• 2002 – Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 1999

ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR?
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 48 sparkling wines assessed: R104

Average price per 750ml bottle of the 3 wines rated 4 Stars: R158
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 11 wines rated 3½ to 4 Stars: R104
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 8 wines rated 3½ Stars: R84
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 26 wines rated 3 to 3½ Stars: R89
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 18 wines rated 3 Stars: R91
Average price per 750ml bottle of the 19 wines rated less than 3 Stars: R115
THREE FINALISTS


1st . JC le Roux
Pinot Noir Rosé 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R94
Pale pink in colour. Red fruit and subtle
leesy notes on the nose. Pure and clean on
the palate. Fine mousse. Finishes very dry.
Drink now or over the next 5 years.
AM 2 CE 2 GDB 1 GDF 3 HD 1

2nd. Waterford Estate
Cap Classique 2000
CELLAR PRICE: R300 ARP
Nose shows citrus fruit and a hint of brioche.
The palate is rich and full with a
creamy mousse and fine line of acidity.
Drink now or over the next 2 years.
AM 3 CE 1 GDB 2 GDF 1 HD 3

3rd. Krone Borealis Brut 2001
twee jonge gezellen PRICE: R80
Both citrus and red fruit as well as some
yeasty notes on the nose. Medium bodied on
the palate with fresh acidity. Still relatively
primary, which suggests further development
potential. Drink now or over the
next 3 years.
AM 1 CE 3 GDB 3 GDF 2 HD 2


Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2005 R68
Jacques Bruère R75
Blanc de Blancs 2005 (Bon Courage)
Longridge Brut NV R75
Weltevrede Philip Jonker The Ring R75
Brut 2006
Villiera Monro Brut 2001 R80
Woolworths R82
Vintage Reserve Brut 2003 (Villiera)
Krone Rosé Brut 2001 (TJG) R95
Klein Constantia Brut 2005 R120


Laborie Blanc de Blanc 2003 R53
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R55
Brut Entheos NV
Villiera Tradition Brut Rosé NV R60
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut 2006 R68
JC le Roux Pinot Noir 2000 R70
Simonsig Brut Rosé 2006 R77
Môreson Blanc de Blancs Brut NV R78
Woolworths R78
Blanc de Blanc 2006 (Villiera)
Villiera Monro Brut 2003 R80
Hazendal White Nights 2003 R82
Graham Beck Brut NV R85
Woolworths R85
Brut Natural 2006 (Villiera)
Bon Cap Organic Brut 2005 R110
Simonsig Royale Blanc de Blanc 1999 R110
Colmant Brut Tradition NV R115
Colmant Brut Rosé NV R136
Graham Beck R149
Brut Blanc de Blancs 2005
Graham Beck Brut Rosé 2006 R149

Pongrácz NV R78
Jacques Bruère R85
Brut Reserve 2004 (Bon Courage)
Weltevrede Philip Jonker R95
Brut Aletheia 2005
Graham Beck Brut NV 1.5l R170


Villiera Tradition Brut NV R60
Dieu Donné Brut Blanc de Blancs 2006 R75
Morgenhof Brut Reserve 2004 R77
Môreson Blanc de Blancs Brut NV R80
Môreson Brut Rosé NV R95
Chamonix Blanc de Blancs 2005 R100
Rhebokskloof 2004 R100
Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel R155
Brut (1.5l) 2003
Krone Borealis Brut 1998 (TJG) R160
Krone Borealis Brut 1997 (TJG) R170


De Zoete Inval Brut 2004 R45
Eikendal Mon Desir Brut R65
Blanc de Blanc 2005
Deetlefs Familie 2006 R300

Also tasted
Avontuur Brut NV R85

corked
Desiderius Pongrácz 2000 R195

PRICES: Wines in each quality grouping
listed in order of ascending price – all
ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

WINE TASTERS: Cape Wine Master Allan
Mullins of Woolworths (Chair) (AM), WINE
magazine editor Christian Eedes (CE), Cape
Wine Masters Greg de Bruyn (GDB), Ginette
de Fleuriot of retailer Winesense (GDF) and
Heidi Duminy (HD)