Buying guide: Cabernet Sauvignon

About the category: The traditional home of Cabernet Sauvignon is Bordeaux, particularly the so-called Left Bank vineyards situated west of the Gironde River and incorporating such famous appellations as Margaux, Pauillac, St-Estèphe, St-Julien and, further south, Graves.

 

Because Cabernet Sauvignon can be difficult to ripen fully, making for lean and astringent wine, it is often blended with plumper Merlot. However, the best wines from this variety display exceptionally deep colour, the characteristic aroma of blackcurrants (cassis) and a high level of tannin. In addition, they have an almost unequalled capacity to age in bottle.

In SA, Cabernet Sauvignon is the second most widely planted variety after Chenin Blanc, making up 12.31% of the total area under vineyard at the end of 2009.

Key findings: Cabernet Sauvignon has always been a strong category for SA but seems to be getting better and better; witness 24 wines out of 196 or around 12% of the line-up in this year’s category tasting being rated 4 Stars or better.

Out of the top-performing 24, one was from 2006, eight were from 2007, 10 from 2008, four from 2009 and one from 2010, suggesting that 2008’s reputation as a difficult vintage might have been exaggerated. Of course, most quality-minded producers won’t yet have released their wines from the highly regarded 2009, so perhaps we can expect even higher ratings when these do come up for review.

What’s pleasing about the wines under scrutiny is that South African producers seem increasingly capable of balance, with the panel particularly impressed with how much pure, clean fruit was on display. Local reds used to be criticised for being green, which was then followed by an over-reaction where winemakers gunned for weight and power at all costs. Now there seems to be more of an understanding as to what combination of factors in terms of viticulture and cellar practice constitutes the most suitable solution.

The best wines showed good flavour concentration and length and there was a sense of the winemaker working with top-quality fruit from well-established vineyards. A notch down, however, and there was a whole bunch of wines that, while not quite as intense, were still very attractive – winemakers working with fruit from young vines seem less inclined to force the issue in terms of extraction and oaking and are happy to make lighter-style wines for earlier drinking.

It is important to remember that there was a huge increase in the planting of red wine varieties between the late 1990s and early 2000s as part of the great industry restructuring post political transformation, these vines only recently starting to provide top-quality grapes. In light of this, it is hoped that the difficult trading conditions that the industry faces as a result of depressed international markets made worse by a strong national currency is not going to compromise all the hard work that has been done in the last decade or so.

What of the less successful wines? Here the panel detected perennial shortcomings such as clumsy acidification and over-oaking. Sadly, spoilage yeast Brettanomyces was all too evident in some cases, while there were quite a few wines that showed premature evolution, the result no doubt of high pH values. Comment was also made of what appeared to be obvious blending. Winemakers are legally permitted to add up to 15% of another variety and still claim single variety status, the theory being that this makes for greater complexity, but in practice these appeared discordant and diminished the integrity of such wines.

Overall, however, Cab is an exciting class which seems to be enjoying a resurgence, having been out of fashion for a while. It has become one of the bigger classes that the Wine magazine panel has tackled in the last few years, the product perhaps of the growing realisation that it produces happier wine across all price points than green Merlot or boring Shiraz.

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩
L’Avenir 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R85
Alc 14% RS 2.1g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.6
Hint of development on the nose. The palate shows pure red fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Complex flavour profile, savoury finish. Elegant and well balanced. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | JP 17.5 | CA 17 | MC 17 | AL 17

Kleine Zalze
Vineyard Selection 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R90
Alc 15.24% RS 4.0g/l TA 6.6g/l pH 3.38
Pronounced cassis on the nose and palate. Fruit-driven, modern style appearing juicy and sweet with bright
acidity and unobtrusive tannins. Drink now – 2014.
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | CA 18 | MC 17 | AL 16

Thelema 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R175
Alc 14.0% RS 1.5g/l TA 5.3g/l pH 3.78
Red fruit, attractive herbal note and oak spice on the nose. The palate is medium bodied and elegant with good fruit concentration, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Pleasingly austere. Drink now – 2018.
CE 16.5 | JP 17 | CA 17 | MC 16 | AL 18

★ ★ ★ ★
Obikwa 2010*
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R27.10
Alc 13.68% RS 6.43g/l TA 5.44g/l pH 3.67
Cassis, violets and vanilla on the nose. Seductively sweet fruit, fresh acidity and smooth tannins on the palate. Drink now – 2012.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 15

Conradie Family Vineyards
Single Vineyard Barrel
Selection Reserve 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Alc 14.5% RS 4.9g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.55
Ultra-ripe dark fruit and vanilla on the nose. The palate is rich and broad with flavours of red and black berries, chocolate and spice. Extravagant style. Drink now – 2013.
CE 17 | JP 17.5 | CA 17 | MC 15.5 | AL 14

Kuun Integra 2009
(Petite Provence)
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Alc 13.87% RS 1.8g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.62
Hint of oak on otherwise shy nose. Core of dark fruit, great line of acidity and firm, grippy tannins. Drink 2012
– 2014.
CE 18 | JP 15 | CA 15.5 | MC 16 | AL 15

Zevenwacht 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R65
Alc 14.5% RS 2.3g/l TA 5.7g/l pH 3.69
Shy nose. Ripe dark fruit, fresh acidity, firm tannins. Long, dry fi nish. Honest and unpretentious. Drink now – 2013.
CE 16 | JP 15 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17

Cape Hutton 2008
(Wyma Vineyards)
CELLAR PRICE: R80
Alc 13.85% RS 3.5g/l TA 5.9g/l pH 3.5
Cassis and attractive oak spice on the nose. The palate shows great fruit concentration with fresh acidity and
fine tannins. Pure and well balanced with a long, dry finish. Drink now – 2013.
CE 18 | JP 15.5 | CA 15 | MC 17 | AL 16

Kloovenburg 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R83
Alc 14.0% RS 3.4g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.4
Intense cassis and attractive oak on the nose. Rich and full on the palate but balanced. Pure fruit, fresh acidity and firm tannins. Drink now – 2014.
CE 17 | JP 14 | CA 16.5 | MC 17 | AL 16

Delheim 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R89
Alc 14.09% RS 2.9g/l TA 6.1g/l pH 3.62
Dark fruit, some tea leaf and oak spice on the nose. The palate is rich and full but balanced with dense, pure fruit, fresh acidity and firm tannins. Persistent finish. Drink 2012 – 2017.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17

La Bri 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R90
Alc 14.0% RS 2.5g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.52
Cassis and mint on the nose. The palate is medium bodied and elegant with dark fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins. Oak particularly well judged. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16 | JP 17.5 | CA 16 | MC 17.5 | AL 16.5

Meerendal 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R95
Alc 14.94% RS 3.5g/l TA 6.0g/l pH 3.56
Dark fruit and an attractive herbal note on the nose. Good fruit concentration, fresh acidity, firm but fine tannins. Some pleasing development. Drink now.
CE 18 | JP 16.5 | CA 16 | MC 16.5 | AL 15

Overgaauw 2009
CELLAR PRICE: R109
Alc 14.0% RS 3.1g/l TA 6.0g/l pH 3.73
Ripe dark fruit and graphite on the nose. Rich, full and smooth textured on the palate. Oak currently prominent. Drink 2012 – 2016.
CE 16 | JP 17.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 16

Kumkani Cradle Hill
Vineyard Selection 2007
(the company of wine people)
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R134.99
Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/l TA 6.2g/l pH 3.54
Dark fruit, mint and a floral note on the nose. An elegant, medium-bodied wine with clean, pure fruit and fresh acidity before a long, dry finish. Drink now – 2012.
CE 15 | JP 15.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 17 | AL 17

Waterford Estate 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R135
Alc 14.5% RS 2.2g/l TA 6.4g/l pH 3.64
Cassis, graphite and attractive floral note on the nose. Good fruit purity, well-judged oak, fresh acidity. Long, dry finish. Drink 2012 – 2017.
CE 18 | JP 15 | CA 15 | MC 15.5 | AL 17

Naledi 2007 (Spier)
CELLAR PRICE: R148
Alc 15.28% RS 3.1Bg/l TA 6.3g/l pH 3.64
Ultra-ripe dark fruit on the nose and palate. Very full-bodied, powerful and weighty. Good concentration, lots of toasty oak. Drink now – 2012.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 16 | AL 15.5

Spier Private Collection 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R148
Alc 14.2% RS 2.9g/l TA 5.8g/l pH 3.62
Cassis and attractive oak on the nose. Rich and full but balanced. Juicy fruit, fresh acidity and good tannic grip. Long, dry finish. Drink 2012 – 2015.
CE 18 | JP 16 | CA 15.5 | MC 16 | AL 17

Klein Constantia 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R150
Alc 14.7% RS 3.2g/l TA 5.4g/l pH 3.84
Ripe dark fruit on the nose. Sweet, rich and full on the palate. Concentrated with prominent oak. Extravagant style. Drink now – 2013.
CE 14.5 | JP 16.5 | CA 17 | MC 16 | AL 15

Oldenburg Vineyards 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R168
Alc 14.5% RS 3.3g/l TA 5.62g/l pH 3.66
Cassis and attractive oak on the nose. The palate is big, bold and smooth textured. Sweet, juicy fruit, very polished. Drink now – 2013.
CE 16 | JP 16 | CA 17 | MC 16.5 | AL 15.5

De Trafford 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R200
Alc 15.07% RS 1.7g/l TA 5.6g/l pH 3.92
Ultra-ripe dark fruit and spicy oak on the nose. Big but well structured on the palate. High alcohol apparent for some. Drink now – 2013.
CE 15 | JP 17 | CA 14 | MC 17.5 | AL 16

Stark-Condé Three Pines 2008
CELLAR Price : R235
Alc 14.5% RS 2.1g/ℓ TA 5.9g/ℓ pH 3.83
Optimally ripe dark fruit and some floral fragrance on the nose. The palate is medium bodied and elegant, appearing juicy and fresh with relatively soft tannins. Drink now – 2015.
CE 17 | JP 15.5 | CA 16 | MC 17 | AL 15.5

Perdeberg Winery
Rex Equus 2007
CELLAR Price : R240
Alc 14.45% RS 4.2g/ℓ TA 5.6g/ℓ pH 3.53
Toasty oak and some secondary character on the nose. The palate shows dense dark fruit, evolved tannins and fresh acidity. Has complexity and nuance. Drink now – 2012.
CE 16 | JP 16.5 | CA 15.5 | MC 16.5 | AL 15.5

Rudera Platinum 2007
CELLAR Price : R300
Alc 14.0% RS 2.7g/ℓ TA 6.6g/ℓ pH 3.59
Shy nose. The palate is medium to full bodied with red and black fruit, fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Pure and concentrated. Drink 2012 – 2017.
CE 17.5 | JP 16 | CA 16 | MC 17 | AL 16.5

Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2007
CELLAR Price : R310
Alc 14.63% RS 2.1g/ℓ TA 6.2g/ℓ pH 3.66
Ripe dark fruit and vanilla on the nose and palate. Rich and full with smooth tannins. Very good in a modern style. Drink 2012 – 2017.
CE 15.5 | JP 16 | CA 15.5 | MC 16.5 | AL 16

★ ★ ★✩
Welmoed 2009*
(the company of wine people) ARP R35.99
Fives Reserve 2009 (Van Loveren) R36.90
Edenhof 2009 (Schalkenbosch) R40
Bon Courage 2009 R50
Bellingham Cabernet Sauvignon with a splash of Cabernet Franc 2009 ARP R59
Tokara Zondernaam 2008* R70
Pepin Condé 2009* (Stark-Condé) R75
Spencer Bay Wine Makers Reserve 2007
(Namaqua Wines) R75
Waterhof Reserve 2008
(Waterstone Wines) R83.50
Eikendal 2008 R85
Knorhoek 2007 R85
Middelvlei 2008 R95.50
Fort Simon 2007 R96
Jordan 2007* R103.50
Hartenberg 2007 R120
Neil Ellis 2008 R120
Stark-Condé 2008 R125
Land of Hope 2008*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R140
Ernie Els 2009 R145
Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2006 R310

★ ★ ★
Orange River Cellars 2010 R26.70
Libby’s Pride 2009 R28.50
Bovlei 2008 R30
Tulbagh 2009* R30
Simonsvlei Lifestyle 2009* R31
Du Toitskloof 2009* R38
Broken Stone 2006 (Slaley) R42
Douglas Green 2009 ARP R42
Franschhoek Cellar
The Churchyard 2009* R45
Landskroon 2009 R45
MAN Vintners 2009* R45
Porcupine Ridge 2009*
(Boekenhoutskloof) R50
Stellenrust 2007 R50
Brampton 2008* R54.95
Villiera 2008 ARP R58.80
Warwick The First Lady 2009 R60
Landskroon
Paul de Villiers 2009 R62
Zonnebloem 2008 R62.99
Nederburg
The Winemaster’s Reserve 2009 R64
Lady Anne Barnard 2008 ARP
(African Pride Wine) R69
Saam 2009* R69
Glenelly The Glass Collection 2009* R70
South Hill 2008* R70
Windmeul Reserve 2009 R70
Mimosa Connor Select 2009 R75
Vinum Africa 2009*
(The Winery of Good Hope) R79
Blaauwklippen
Vineyard Selection 2007 R80
Dieu Donné 2007 R80
Simonsig 2007 R80
Christina van Loveren
Limited Release 2009 (Van Loveren) R83
Allesverloren 2008 ARP R84.06
Uitkyk Carlonet 2001 ARP R84.06
Mont Rochelle 2005 R90
Remhoogte 2008 R96
Nederburg Manor House 2008 R97
Beau Joubert 2007 R99
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2008 R110
Swartland Indalo 2008 R110
Zorgvliet 2006 R110
Spier Woolworths Reserve 2007 ARP R115
Groot Constantia 2009 R118
Asara 2008 R120
Pella 2007 R120
Rudera 2008 R150
Thelema Mountain Vineyards 2007 R175
Flagstone The Music Room 2007* R200
Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection 2006 R200
Topaz Conviction 2009 R200
Edgebaston GS 2008 R350

★ ★✩
A Few Good Men 2009*
(Riebeek Cellars) R55
Zidela 2010 R27
Africa Five 2010
(Waterstone Wines) R29.70
Perdeberg Winery 2009* R31.50
Balance Reserve 2009*
(Overhex Wines) R32
Bovlei Centenary Collection 2007 R35
Swartland 2010* R38
Edenhof 2007 R40
Klein Dauphine 2008* R40
Simonsvlei Premier Selection 2008* R40
Broken Stone 2007 (Slaley) R42
Bovlei Vineyard Selected 2009 R50
Cathedral Cellar 2009 (KWV) R50
Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection 2009* R50
Mac’s Hill 2007 R50
Stellenrust 2009* R50
Wandsbeck 2009 R50
Merwida 2009 R54
River Grandeur 2009 (Viljoensdrift) R55
Zorgvliet Silver Myn 2008* R55
Bergsig 2007 R57
Rietvallei 2009 R58
Kranskop 2008 R60
Backsberg 2007 R64
Altydgedacht Limited Release 2009 R75
Spencer Bay Wine Makers Reserve 2008
(Namaqua Wines) R75
Stellenzicht
Golden Triangle 2005 ARP R76.99
Topiary 2007 R78
Tormentoso 2009* (MAN Vintners) R79
Bergsig Limited Release 2008 R85
Groenland Premium 2007 R85
Manley 2008 R85
Klein Genot 2008 R90
Edgebaston 2008 R95
Buitenverwachting 2006 R100
Cederberg 2008 R120
Swartland Indalo 2007 R110
La Motte 2008 R113
Bosman Family Vineyards 2007 R120
Hartenberg 2006 R120
Pella 2008 R120
Grande Provence 2008* R140
Cederberg Five Generations 2008 R280

★ ★
Woolworths Longmarket 2009
(Bergsig Estate) R30
Riebeek Cellars 2010* R31
Ayama 2009 R35
Sonata 2007* (Waterstone Wines) R40.50
Alexanderfontein 2008 R46
Cranefi elds 2006 R50
Niel Joubert Wines 2009* R50
Jason’s Hill 2008 R52
Ruitersvlei 2009* R54.75
Les Coteaux 2009 (Mont du Toit) R55
Lion Creek 2009* (Napier Winery) R55
Windfall 2007 R55
Rietvallei 2008 R58
River Grandeur 2008 (Viljoensdrift) R58
Ondine 2008
(Ormonde Private Cellars) R61
Neethlingshof 2004 ARP R65.43
Allée Bleue 2008 R72
Durbanville Hills 2008 R72
Boplaas Family Reserve 2008 R75
Boland Cellar Reserve No1 2007 R77
Blaauwklippen
Cultivar Selection 2007 R80
Dieu Donné 2008 R80
Mooiplaas 2003 R83
Uitkyk Carlonet 2007 ARP R84.06
Welbedacht 2007
(Schalk Burger & Sons) R95
Benguela Cove
Premium Selection 2009 R98
Amares 2007 R105
Le Bonheur 2007 ARP R105.56
Le Bonheur 2008 ARP R105.56
Marianne 2007 R106
Beau Joubert 2008 R110
Peter Falke PF 2007 R110
Hoopenburg Integer 10 Barrels 2006 R115
Joubert Tradauw R62 2008 R120
Alto 2008 ARP R136.99
Devonair
The Cab Family Reserve 2006 R200
Laibach The Widow’s Block Single
Vineyard 2007 R200
Lady May 2008 (Glenelly) R235
The Bridge 2008 (Rickety Bridge) R390

★
Boplaas 2007 R43
Abbotts Hill 2009 R50
Waverley Hills 2006 R50
Havana Hills 2008 R60
Neethlingshof 2005 ARP R65.43
Hoopenburg Bush Vine 2006 R69
Upland 2008 R70
Stellenzicht
Golden Triangle 2004 ARP R76.99
Laibach 2006 R79
Brahms 2006 ARP R80
Elgin Vintners Third Edition 2007 R80
Nitida 2009 R85
Onderkloof Schapenberg
Single Vineyard 2006 R98
Bon Courage
Inkara Limited Release 2008 R102
Webersburg 2005 ARP R110
Lynx 2009 R130
Saxenburg Private Collection 2007 R180
Flagstone The Music Room 2004 R200

Two Cabernet Sauvignon wines tasted did not receive a star rating.

CORKED
(Both samples supplied displaying TCA.)

Groenland
The Classic Collection 2005 R59.00
Jacobsdal 2007 ARP R80.28

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.
ARP – Approximate retail price
* – Bottled under screwcap