Buying guide: Cabernet Sauvignon

The prevalence of high scorers among the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignons is down dramatically on previous years. Trading on the hot, dry season may not be sufficient excuse. Leonie Joubert reports.

Cabernet Sauvignon is the noblest of noble grapes. It is revered globally for producing the finest, most long-lived red wines. And it's planted the world over with varying results.

In her Guide to Wine Grapes, Jancis Robinson writes that Cabernet Sauvignon has the ability to provide "the perfect vehicle for individual vintage characteristic and winemaking techniques and local physical attributes, or terroir".

"The particular appeal of Cabernet Sauvignon lies much less in primary fruit aromas than in the much more subtle flavour compounds that evolve over years into a subtle bouquet."

Despite its excellent tannin structure, colour and propensity for concentration of fruit and flavour as a single varietal, it often finds its greatest expression as part of a blend. Look no further than Bordeaux's legendary first growths Château Margaux, Château Lafite and Château Latour; Californian cult wines like Screaming Eagle and Opus One; Australia's iconic Wolf Blass Black Label and Italy's Sassicaia.

And in South Africa the top contenders for the title of South African icon wines are built on a backbone of Cabernet Sauvignon: Rust en Vrede Estate Wine; Kanonkop Paul Sauer; Veenwouden Classic, Vergelegen Vergelegen and Grangehurst Cab/Merlot to mention a few.

On the varietal front, Rustenberg Peter Barlow, Neil Ellis Cabernet Reserve, Thelema Reserve and Le Riche Reserve consistently stand out as top performers.

Cabernet category tastings over the past few years have reaped a veritable treasure trove of 4 Star wines and up: ten 4 Star wines proved a comfortable innings for the hot 1998 harvest; 1997 produced two 4½ and eight 4 Stars; 1996 came in with one 4½ Star and six 4 Stars.

It was with more than passing concern then, that the panel rated only two wines 4 Stars out of the 97 wines tasted over two days.

So why such a relatively poor showing from 1999 Cabernet Sauvignons?

If you can't stand the heat. . . 1999 is on record as being a hot, dry and stressful season. While Cabernet Sauvignon battles in drought conditions, it is a late-ripening variety and needs a bit of warmth to reach optimum ripeness. But hot summers are hardly an enigma - this is Africa, after all - and surely by now winemakers and viticulturists have adapted. Or have they?

"The 1999 harvest was a hot one," recalled Old Vines owner and Cape Wine Master Irina von Holdt.

While last year's tasting report recorded comments about the 1998 Cabernets being generally jammy, overripe and hot, it also indicated that a handsome crop of 4 Stars emerged.

"I expected a lot more of the 1999 because, after the 1998, the winemakers should have been prepared for it," were Cape Wine Master Allan Mullins's words on a tasting which he considered lean and green.

"I thought there would be riper fruitÉ but there were a lot of green wines.

There were about three or four overripe wines but not the same amount as last year. I think (the winemakers) overcompensated this year," he speculated.

"It's very hard when you've got a hot vintage because your sugars are going crazy so you don't get phenolic ripeness," added Cape Wine Master and Principal of the Cape Wine Academy, Christine Rudman.

By way of evidence of drought conditions, panel chairman and Cape Wine Master Tony Mossop observed that he picked up traces of stressed fruit in the eucalyptus and oily camphor character in some of the wines.

Adding to the stress was virus infection: "Some of the worst virus infection is in Cabernet which shows in the lean, green wines," said Colin Frith, honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters.

Bantam weights and the barrel One would think that, with the plummeting Rand, winemakers would be more judicious in their use of oak, but that doesn't seem to have been the case. Frith said the following: "A lot of the problem here is that the wood used on the '99 is the same amount as wood used on the '98. By and large these wines - for whatever reason - don't have sufficient fruit (to carry off that amount of oak)."

"They may be more elegant but there aren't many mouth-filling wines. Certainly this is why we didn't have more 4 Stars."

The consensus was that there were not enough classic Bordeaux-style wines in evidence. There were loads of New World-style examples, a small number of older style Cabs - with the dusty, capsicum character - and some "tutti-frutti" quaffers.

"There is a high percentage of wines which were 3 and 3½ Stars," added Rudman. "That's high - almost 45%. There is a lot of competence (in winemaking) here."

After the more powerful 1998, the conclusion drawn by the tasting panel - as summed up by von Holdt - was that 1999 was "not a great vintage but it's an early drinking vintage".

Survival of the fittest "If you take the opinions of other (wine tasters) who come to this country (for competitions such as the South African Airways onboard selection), the general comments about our Cabernet is that they are under-ripe or over-ripe; green or too alcoholic and porty," Mossop concluded.

South Africa gets accolades for other varieties - especially from the Aussies and the French - but doesn't attract attention with Cabernet Sauvignon, he maintained.

Rudman summed it up: "It's because we have not cracked this one yet." Vintage quirks (and excuses) aside, this time round we haven't done Cabernet the justice worthy of its nobility.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON ASSESSMENTS

4 stars

Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R125.00 Blackish plum; red rim. Slightly shy but dense nose reveals sweet dusty vanilla notes with pencil shavings over lush black fruit; also Christmas pudding, liquorice, blackcurrant, perfumed cassis and sweet, supple, ripe entry. Chunky fruit and wood palate with chocolate-mocha flavours. Refined, classy and beautifully balanced. Savour now or tuck away for up to 5 years.

Rustenberg Peter Barlow 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R170.00 Black; deep purple rim. A dense, supple and complex wine. Sweet, creamy vanilla, cassis, plum and red berry pudding with cream aromas. Zesty palate revealing smoked meat, firm tannins and classy, concentrated black fruit. So, concentrated and multi-layered you can eat! Enjoy now or hold for up to 8 years.

3 stars

Mooiplaas Cabernet Sauvignon '99 CELLAR PRICE: R50.00 Black body; garnet edge. Typical Cab herbaceousness with cassis, sweet spice, dark fruits, coffee, faint mulberry and smoked meat whiffs exude from the glass. Big meaty, classy wine; palate showing cassis and cream flavours. Bordeaux-like: drink now or in 3 to 5 years.

Warwick Cabernet Sauvignon '99 CELLAR PRICE: R54.50 Blackish plum, brick rim. Spicy, minty, vegetal, crushed herb, capsicum, Karoo-bush aromas; some of which carry through to the palate. Additional chocolate flavours. Fine grained tannins and long, dry finish. An elegant wine for drinking now or in 3 to 5 years.

Hidden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 GRANGEHURST PRICE: R59.00 (Releasing in May/June) Pitch black; garnet rim. Complex nose: bramble berry, cedar, eucalyptus, gamey smoked meat, black fruit, liquorice and tobacco whiffs complemented by cream and plums which follow on the palate with similar cream, plums, cassis and sweet spice flavours. A big, chewy wine. Round, fat and complex: 4 to 6 years of life in this bottle.

Morgenhof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R60.00 Blackish plum; carmine rim. Huge, savoury nose with a palate to match: plum, cassis, tobacco, smoked meat and fynbos; a touch nutty and minty, too. Firm and oaky palate; excellent rounded fruit and soft nose. Needs time - up to 7 years.

Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R70.00 Plum, brick edge. A touch of Bordeaux. Multi-layered and classy: complex vanilla, cigar box, lead pencil, cassis, plums and spice aromas. Excellent fruit and oak balance although the wood may need some time to soften - up to 5 or 6 years.

Vergenoegd Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 APPROX CELLAR PRICE: R75.00 Mahogany heart; brick edge. Veritable basket of smells: coffee, toast, wood, plums, chocolate, violets, tobacco, blackcurrants and liquorice. Typical Cabernet character: crisp, bright fruit with Christmas pudding, spice, smoke and ripe, firm tannins. A good 4 years left if you don't drink this luscious wine now.

Flagstone The Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R80.00 Blackish plum; bright red rim. Complex smoked meat, stewed fruit, plum pudding, minty cassis and tobacco showing themselves on the nose. Palate a little quieter than nose, but still bold and chewy. A gorgeous wine. Mature for 2 to 6 years.

Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R80.00 Plum body; bright red rim. Classic Cab nose: cassis, cigar box, sweet spice, mocha and toast with game and dense cherry. Chewy tannins finish a creamy, cherry fruit palate where sweet fruit supports wood. Drink in 1 to 5 years.

Rust en Vrede Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 APPROX CELLAR PRICE: R80.00 (Releasing in June) Plum centre; brick rim. Concentrated cassis and spice with lively mocha, tobacco, toast, mulberry fruit and black plums on the nose. Creamy palate with nice gamey character; also cassis, cherries and soft fruit flavours. Drink now or restrain yourself for 6 years.

Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R81.00 Dark centre, brick rim. Attractive Cab cedar-'n-oak nose with spice, cassis, cream and tobacco. Lively, delicious, concentrated fruit and balanced oak. Classy and complex - drink now or tuck away for 4 to 6 years.

Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Cellar price: R90.00 Pitch black; russet rim. A pungent wine with distinctive minty style; also mulberry, tobacco spice, leather, prunes, mocha and liquorice aromas. Creamy, soft palate with black cherries, sweet spice, treacle and meat. A delicious mouthful of a wine - good now or in 4 years.

Beyerskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 CELLAR PRICE: R220.00 (1,5l magnums) Pitch black heart, crimson edge. Dense black plums, spice, mulberry, tobacco and toast bouquet - sweetish edge and distinct clean oak. Palate packed with plums, chocolate, spice and rich cassis. A fat wine likely to develop well over 6 years.

Le Riche Cape Winemakers Guild Auction Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AVERAGE 2001 AUCTION PRICE: R308.00 Ruby; brick rim. Forthcoming nose: creamy, red berry fruit, cassis, cedar and chocolate with an oven-roasted fennel note; also meaty and slightly jammy tones. Sweet, ripe, juicy flavours with prominent chocolate on the palate. Very good winemaking. Drink now or hold for 4 to 6 years.
3 stars

Goede Hoop Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R34.50 Blue Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R38.00 De Meye Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R40.00 Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R42.00 Eikendal Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R42.35 Clovelly Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R43.00 Groot Constantia Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R44.50 Fleur du Cap Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R45.00 Roodezandt Balthazar Classic Cab Sauv 1999 R45.00 Delheim Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R50.00 Steenberg Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R50.00 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R55.00 Paul Cluver Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R55.00 Signal Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R55.00 Leidersburg Vintner’s Reserve Cab Sauv 1999 R57.00 Post House Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R59.00 Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00 L’Avenir Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R65.00 Blaauwklippen Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R68.40 Dieu Donné Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R70.00 Longridge Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R73.00 Zonnebloem Fine Art Collection Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R75.00 Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R80.00 Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R80.00 De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R82.00 Kanu Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R84.00 Cloof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Groene Cloof)R85.00 Spier Private Collection Cab Sauv 1999 AR R85.00 Laibach Friedrich Laibach Cab Sauv 1999 R109.00

2½ stars

Vlottenburg Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R24.50 Wildekrans Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R29.50 Landskroon Paul De Villiers Cab Sauv 1999 R40.00 Rhebokskloof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R42.00 Bellingham Coastal Region Cab Sauv 1999 AR R45.00 Nederburg Paarl Cabernet Sauvignon1999 ARR45.00 Sentinel Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Coppoolse Finlayson) AR R45.75 Remhoogte Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R48.00 Clos Malverne Basket Pressed Cab Sauv 1999 R49.00 Neethlingshof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R50.00 Stellenzicht Golden Triangle Cab Sauv 1999 AR R50.00 Avontuur Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R53.00 Overgaauw Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R54.00 Constantia Uitsig Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R58.00 Bilton Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00 Graham Beck Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Coastal)R60.00 Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Cab Sauv 1999 R60.00 Ruitersvlei Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00 Vriesenhof Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R65.00 Le Bonheur Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R75.00 Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R80.00 Grangehurst Cape Winemakers Guild Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Average 2001 auction price)R158.00

2 stars

Lutzville Most Westerly Cab Sauv 1999 R18.65 Roodezandt Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R19.50 Somerbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R28.00 Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R29.65 Landskroon Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R30.00 Broken Stone Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Slaley) R30.00 Audacia Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R31.00 Diemersdal Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R34.00 Middelvlei Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R40.00 Nitida Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R42.00 Pinehurst Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Môreson)R42.00 Excelsior Special Reserve Cab Sauv 1999 AR R45.00 Kleine Zalze Barrel Matured Cab Sauv 1999 R45.00 Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R45.00 Avondale Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R51.50 Rooiberg Henri Roselt Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00 Upland Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00 Tulbagh Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Only available in 1.5 l magnums)R65.00 Lord Neethling Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Neethlingshof) ARR75.00 L’Avenir Cape Winemakers Guild Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Average 2001 auction price)R110.00

1 stars

Helderkruin Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R30.00 A Few Good Men Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (Riebeek Cellar)R30.50 Goue Vallei Cardouw Cab Sauv 1999 AR R34.50 Backsberg Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R35.00 Boplaas Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R41.00 Durbanville Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R46.00 Dieu Donné Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R46.90 Bay View Cabernet 1999 (Longridge) AR R48.90 Allesverloren Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R55.00 Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 AR R55.00 Graceland Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 R60.00

Prices: All ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated. AR = Approximate retail price

WINE Tasters: Cape Wine Masters Tony Mossop (chair); Allan Mullins; Christine Rudman (also Cape Wine Academy principal); Irina Von Holdt (also Old Vines owner) and honorary member of the Institute of Cape Wine Masters Colin Frith.

Procedures: Tasting done "blind". Wines poured at 18°C. The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 or 17; 3 Star = 15; 2 Star = 14; 1 Star = 13; No Star = less than 13. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus. Wine identities not revealed to panellists until publication of the assessments.