Buying guide: Caberneet Sauvignon

With sighs of pleasure alternating with grunts of disdain, WINE magazine's panel sipped its way through more than 100 different Cabernet Sauvignon wines from the 2000 vintage. Why, asks Fiona Mcdonald, did the grunts outnumber the sighs?

 

Mention the name Mondavi and most wine enthusiasts will know that you're talking about Robert, one of the foremost figures of winemaking in America - and an ambassador for Californian wines worldwide. A recent vertical tasting of Mondavi's flagship Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons held in the US concluded that this was a wine that spoke of its place. It was identifiably Californian - yet still true to its regal Cabernet Sauvignon heritage.

WINE's judging panel, assembled to taste 106 South African samples from the 2000 vintage over a two-day session, were also looking for identifiable Cabernet Sauvignon characteristics that spoke of their place.

In years gone by this task has been made difficult by the high incidence of virused vines which led to slow or incomplete ripening. Judges were optimistic that widespread new plantings allied to better winemaking techniques and new methods gleaned from overseas wineries during foreign harvests would have had a noticeable effect.

Cabernet Sauvignon is still regarded as the king of grapes. It's South Africa's most planted red grape variety with statistics showing that a total of 10 400 hectares are devoted to it. Interesting to note that in 1990 - just a decade before the 2000 harvest - there were only 2 500 hectares planted. So lots of new "cleaned up" Cabernet Sauvignon has gone into the soil over the past decade - and judges were expecting to see good results.

A quick look at the previous two years' tasting results revealed the following picture. The 1998 crop of Cabernet Sauvignon resulted in 10 wines being awarded 4 Star status while the 1999 vintage yielded only two! Reasons given in both cases were the preceding dry winters and excessive heat prior to harvest.

So this year's result of three 41/2 Star wines and four 4 Star wines was good news. Judges attributed these excellent examples to farmers and winemakers getting a handle on conditions. (The preceding winter was equally dry and the summer just as hot. In one case too hot - Rustenberg's Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon was not made in 2000 because of fire damage.)
SO WHAT DID THE PANEL HAVE TO SAY?
Cabernet Sauvignon can be a difficult customer, they agreed. It's one of the most tannic grapes and unless fully ripe, its tannins can dominate the wine. And if the grape is pressed too hard, the tannins also overwhelm.

They lavished praise on the best examples, but were disparaging about the rest of the field, pronouncing them "disappointing, on the whole".

"The really good wines stood out," summed up Cape Wine Master (CWM) Cornel Spies. "If we can make wine like that we can hold our heads high overseas, but I found lots of wines that showed green, lean flavours with the tannin and fruit out of balance." Former Cape Wine Academy principal and fellow CWM Christine Rudman concurred.

Panel chairman Allan Mullins - also a Wine Master - commented on the two distinct styles apparent throughout the tasting: the elegant, classic Old World style and the big, blockbusting New World style.

The fourth CWM on the panel, Dick Davidson, said the promise made by appealing aromas on many of the wines was not kept, because of over-extraction of fruit or too much time in new wood.

Clive Torr, the fifth Cape Wine Master and the newly appointed principal of the Cape Wine Academy, said 10% of the wines were shining examples of what was possible with this grape.

"My challenge to producers is to identify the best sites for Cabernet Sauvignon and try to match these top wines. The French have said time and again that there is not enough minerality in our wines. Other than the top examples, our Cabernets don't speak of their place."

Mullins had the last word: "We do Cabernet well - but I believe it needs a little something to soften the edges. Just a touch of Merlot or Cabernet Franc makes it more appealing.

CATHEDRAL CELLAR (KWV)
CELLAR PRICE: R64.00
Opaque plum. Whiffs of spice, cedar and cassis - some marzipan too. Good complexity - curranty fruit, lead pencil, mocha flavours. Claret-like with firm tannin. Drinking well now but good for 3 to 4 years.

CEDERBERG V GENERATIONS
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R125.00
Dark ruby. Complex nose of mint, vanilla and wood spice. Ripe plums, mulberries and pencil shavings on a creamy palate. Tannins firm but balanced. Lingering finish. Good for 4 to 7 years.

NEIL ELLIS VINEYARD SELECTION
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R150.00
Deep crimson. Toasty, charry notes - some vanilla. Sweet mouth packed with juicy black fruits. Oak and fruit in good harmony. Will age well. Uncork in 4 to 6 years.

POST HOUSE
CELLAR PRICE: R65.00
Deep garnet. Nose of black coffee, cassis, toast and licorice. Creamy palate boasts blackcurrant and cherry layers. Restrained oak veneer with ripe tannins. Good structure, balance and finish. Uncork in 4 years.

NEIL ELLIS
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R75.00
Dense ruby. Mulberry and cedar aromas. Lush, supple palate of blackcurrant and vanilla spice. Ripe fruit and tannins. Good texture and balance. Uncork in 4 to 5 years.

BOEKENHOUTSKLOOF
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R120.00
Ruby. Toasty nose - wild berries and smoke. Layered palate of full ripe berries, spice and choc-mint flavours. Elegant structure and wood integration. Good for 5 years.

RUDERA
CELLAR PRICE: R250.00
Blackish ruby. Intense mocha nose with vanilla whiffs. Smoky mouth full of ripe black fruits and coffee. Well structured with prominent tannins. A big wine that needs time - up to about 7 years.

STONY BROOK RESERVE
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R50.00
Blackish. Savoury, toasty, tarry nose. Silky mouthful of blackcurrants, herbs and woodspice. Good ripeness and structure. Open in 3 to 4 years.

L'AVENIR
CELLAR PRICE: R65.00
Ruby black. Cassis and mocha aromas. Powerful palate of chocolate, ripe plums and blackcurrant. Tannins still taut. Good length and ageing potential - up to 7 years.

FLEUR DU CAP UNFILTERED
APPROX RETAIL PRICE: R67.90
Deep garnet. Classic lead pencil nose - some vanilla. Mouth packed with rich cassis and meaty black fruit. Firm tannins but good structure. Uncork in 2 to 4 years.

OVERGAAUW
CELLAR PRICE: R72.00
Deep blue/black. Meaty spice on the nose. Palate soft and accessible with minty choc/coffee and black fruit flavours. Ripe tannins in balance with fruit. Lingering finish. Uncork in about 3 years.

STARK (STARK-CONDÉ)
CELLAR PRICE: R80.00 (releasing in June)
Blackish plum. Nose of cedar, plums and earth. Textured, creamy palate of spice, vanilla and charry black fruits. Good balance. Elegant. Uncork in 3 to 5 years.

BOSCHENDAL RESERVE
CELLAR PRICE: R83.50 (releasing in July)
Ruby mahogany. Fennel and vanilla on nose - with hint of mint. Black fruit on the palate, ripe mulberries, coffee and chocolate. Nicely balanced oak. Uncork in 3 to 4 years.

VERGENOEGD
APPROX CELLAR PRICE: R87.00
Dark plum. Cassis and spice carries through to a textured palate of lush currant fruit and toasty oak. Best in 2 to 4 years.

THELEMA
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R100.00
Blackish plum. Smoky coffee and herb whiffs. Lovely mouthfeel with licorice, berries, woodspice and vanilla flavours. Good balance, extraction and texture. Needs time - 3 to 6 years.

DE TRAFFORD
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R120.00
Ruby black. Mulberries, spice and herbal aromas. Good balance between fruit and tannin. Creamy fruit finish. Drink within 2 to 5 years.

LE RICHE RESERVE
SOLD OUT EX-CELLAR: R120.00
Blackish plum. Savoury nose of fennel and spice. Good flavours - ripe red fruit and licorice with some mint. Well balanced. Good finish. Drink in 3 to 4 years.

DC Terra Hutton (Darling Cellars) R32.00
Cederberg SO R45.00
Steenberg SO R59.00
Jordan R62.50
Groot Constantia SO R63.00
Rhebokskloof R65.00
Genesis R78.50
Havana Hills Du Plessis Reserve R82.00
Kanu R84.00
Waterford R85.00
Vergelegen R96.00
Flagstone The Music Room R110.98
Saxenburg Private Collection R130.00
Naledi R185.00

SO: Sold out

Spier Private Collection
Boschendal
Kaapzicht
Culraithin (Coleraine)
Fleur du Cap
Morgenhof
Remhoogte
Blaauwklippen Vineyard Selection
Boland
Clos Malverne Basket Pressed
Durbanville Hills
Graham Beck (Coastal)
Klein Constantia
Laibach
Newton Johnson (Cape Bay)
Onyx
Altydgedacht
Audacia
Longridge
Plaisir de Merle
Warwick
Bianco
Condé (Stark- Condé)
Graham Beck Cornerstone (Coastal)
Knorhoek
Le Riche
Rust en Vrede
Yonder Hill
Meinert

Bushman's Creek (Tomorrow)
Le Pommier
Nederburg Reserve
Simonsig
Zonnebloem
Rijk's
Villiera
Windmeul
Allesverloren
Avondale
Hoopenburg
Jonkheer
Landskroon
Linton Park Bush Vine Slangrivier
Paul Cluver
Upland
Anthony Smook
Avontuur
Sentinel (Coppoolse Finlayson)
Delheim
Pinehurst (Môreson)
Cardouw Reserve (Citrusdal Cellars)
Cloof
Bellingham
Kleine Zalze

Mont Grühn
Lutzville Most Westerly
Nitida
Opstal
Muratie
Ruitersvlei
Bonfoi
Signal Hill Antica MM Old Vines
Van Loveren Limited Release
Slanghoek

Also tasted:
Stellekaya

Prices: Ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

SO: Sold out

WINE TASTERS: Cape Wine Masters Allan Mullins (Panel Chairman), Dick Davidson, Christine Rudman, Cornel Spies and Clive Torr.

PROCEDURES: Tasting done "blind". Wines poured at 18°C. The 20-point scoring system was used: 5 Star = 18 or more out of 20; 4 Star = 16 or 17; 3 Star = 15. Star ratings awarded on the basis of discussion and consensus. Wine identities not revealed to panellists until publication of the assessments.

Superlative wine, a masterpiece. World-class.
Excellent, wine of distinction. Recommended for special occasions
and cellaring.
Good to very good. Fine character and style. Suitable for cellaring.
Above average. Appealing.
Average. Acceptable.