Buying guide: 2004 Whites, 1999 Reds

2004 Whites, 1999 Reds

The annual WINE magazine review of fiveyear- old whites and 10-year-old reds serves a number of purposes: firstly, it allows the conventional wisdom concerning the merits of a particular vintage to be reconsidered; secondly, it's a gauge of just how well our best wines perform over time; and thirdly, developments in the country's general state of winemaking can be tracked.

This year there were 35 whites from the 2004 vintage and 31 reds from the 1999 vintage under review. Sadly, pronouncements concerning vintage in South Africa tend to be so broad as to be useless: there's nothing like the en primeur tastings of Bordeaux (where all the wines of a particular year are rated while still in barrel) that might serve as the foundation for a sensible assessment while it must be conceded that comparing the wines of a particular harvest from such geographically separate growing areas as Stellenbosch and Robertson is fraught in the first place.

Nevertheless, according to Platter's 2009, Chardonnay from the 2004 vintage was "especially promising" while 1999 produced "fat, alcoholic reds with ripe fruit for earlier drinking".

A good call regarding 2003 Chardonnay with seven of the nine examples tasted improving on their earlier ratings in WINE magazine. Mulderbosch Barrel Fermented Chardonnay was the pick of the bunch with a rating of 4½ Stars, while Uva Mira Vineyard Select Chardonnay, which was judged best in class at the 2006 Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, is still showing well.

As for Chenin Blanc, the feeling among the panel was that while there were some smart wines on display, local winemakers have become even more proficient with this variety subsequently. Mention must be made of KWV Val du Chene Chenin Blanc, which surprised many when it won the 2007 Chenin Blanc Challenge but still has enough life in it now to warrant a rating of 4 Stars.

Tokara White (the 2004 being 100% Sauvignon Blanc, matured in mainly second-fill oak) is getting better and better in bottle and richly deserves its rating of 4½ Stars, while Elgin producer Iona proves once again that it makes Sauvignon for the long haul, its wine picking up 4 Stars. Collectors that have Constantia Uitsig White in their cellar will be pleased to know that it is still very much intact (it rated 4 Stars) but as for Semillon, the feeling was that these wines could have offered more excitement, 4 Stars for Steenberg notwithstanding.

Those who were inclined to take the advice that 1999 reds were not going to benefit from some maturation and have already depleted their stocks will have missed out on the pleasures currently offered in particular by the Bordeaux-style red blend from Beyerskloof and Boekenhoutskloof Syrah, which both rated 4½ Stars a decade after vintage.

There's some smart Cabernet around (Boekenhoutskloof, Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection and Thelema all rated 4 Stars) as well as some Bordeaux-style reds such as Buitenverwachting Christine, Kanonkop Paul Sauer and Rustenberg John X Merriman that are not far behind the Beyerskloof, again all rating 4 Stars. As to how much longer these wines will last is a moot point, and depends as much as anything on your appetite for developed flavours in your wine.

The contention has been made that South African reds aren't capable of maturing with benefit but based on the results of this tasting, this is fallacious. It would seem, however, that Cabernet Sauvignon, either on its own or as a constituent part, is key to longevity. Those that put down Merlot or Pinotage for ageing should not have unrealistic expectations about the outcome.

Chardonnay
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Mulderbosch Barrel Fermented
Alc 13.14% RS 5.7g/l pH 3.33 TA 7.1g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Waxy character on the nose. The palate is
opulent with juicy citrus fruit, bright acidity
and well-integrated oak. Good texture and a
long finish. Drink now or keep for 2 years.
CE 16 CVZ 16 LS 16 AM 18.5 RP 17.5

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Hamilton Russell Vineyards
Alc 13.06% RS 1.9g/l pH 3.24 TA 7.2g/l
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE ,
November 2005
Citrus, honey and some developed character
on the nose. The palate is complex and
layered with lemon-lime flavours and
well-integrated wood.
CE 16 CVZ 15 LS 15 AM 19 RP 15.5

Jordan Nine Yards
Alc 14% RS 2.8g/l pH 3.29 TA 6.7g/l
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE ,
November 2005
Lime, spice and some nuttiness on the nose.
Rich and full on the palate with a creamy
texture. Fresh acidity lends balance.
CE 15 CVZ 18 LS 15.5 AM 17 RP 18

Simonsig
Alc 13.6% RS 3.8g/l pH 3.5 TA 6.0g/l
Previous rating: 2 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Hint of citrus blossom on the nose. Juicy
citrus fruit, toasty oak and bright acidity on
the palate. Still youthful.
CE 17 CVZ 15 LS 16 AM 16.5 RP 15.5

Uva Mira Vineyard Select
Alc 13.5% RS 2.3g/l pH 3.42 TA 6.2g/l
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Nose shows lemon-lime aromas and hint of
oak. Elegant palate with good fruit and oak
integration.
CE 15 CVZ 16 LS 15 AM 18 RP 16.5

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Glen Carlou
Previous rating: 2 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Rijk's
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Vergelegen Reserve
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
August 2006

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Sterhuis Barrel Selection
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
November 2005

Chenin Blanc

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Bellingham The Maverick*
Alc 15.02% RS 5.4g/l pH 3.46 TA 6.39g/l
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE ,
February 2006
Waxy character on the nose. The palate
is rich and complex with layers of flavour
including dried apricot, honey and spice.
Good texture and a long finish.
CE 18 CVZ 16 LS 16 AM 16 RP 17.5

KWV Val du Chene
Alc 13.06% RS 2.2g/l pH 3.29 TA 5.86g/l
Previous rating: 5 Stars in WINE,
February 2007
Some waxy, leesy character on the nose.
The palate is medium bodied with lime and
green apple flavours. Still very fresh thanks
to zesty acidity.
CE 18 CVZ 16 LS 15 AM 15.5 RP 15.5

Rijk's
Alc 13.94% RS 4.6g/l pH 3.14 TA 7.0g/l
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
February 2006
The nose shows tropical fruit and spice.
Rich and ripe on the palate with juicy fruit,
well-integrated oak and bright acidity.
CE 18 CVZ 15.5 LS 16.5 AM 14 RP 16.5

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Beaumont Hope Marguerite
Not previously rated
Kanu Wooded
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
February 2006
Kleine Zalze Barrel Fermented
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
February 2005
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
February 2005
Villiera Cellar Door
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005

★ ★ ★ three stars
Jordan
Not previously rated
Simonsig Chenin Avec Chene
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
February 2006
Spier Private Collection*
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
February 2006
Villiera
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
The FMC
Previous rating: 5 Stars in WINE,
February 2007

★ ★ two stars
De Trafford
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
February 2005

Sauvignon Blanc

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Tokara White
Alc 15% RS 2.0g/l pH 3.17 TA 6.76g/l
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Very pungent, musky nose. Palate is clean
and pure with juicy fruit and fresh acidity.
CE 18 CVZ 16 LS 16 AM 17 RP 17

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Iona
Alc 13.4% RS 1.1 g/l pH 3.49 TA 6.3g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
June 2005
Very forthcoming herbaceous nose. Clean
and pure on the palate with juicy fruit and a
good line of acidity.
CE 16 CVZ 16 LS 15.5 AM 15.5 RP 16.5

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Cape Point
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Steenberg
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2004

★ ★ ★ three stars
Sterhuis
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2005

★ ★ two stars
Cape Point Isliedh
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
November 2005

Semillon

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Steenberg
Alc 13.45% RS 1.9g/l pH 3.05 TA 6.4g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
June 2005
Aromas range from grassy to citrus on the
nose. Palate is elegant with lime fruit and
zesty acidity.
CE 15 CVZ 14.5 LS 17 AM 17.5 RP 16.5

★ ★ ★ three stars
Landau du Val
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
November 2006

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Hildenbrand
Previous rating: 2½ Stars in WINE,
November 2005
Rijk's
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2006

White Blends

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Constantia Uitsig White*
Alc 13.5% RS 4.5g/l pH 3 TA 7.2g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2006
Nose shows herbal notes as well as spice
and some waxiness. Palate has weight and
texture offset by a fresh line of acidity.
Flavours of lime and some honey that
comes with age.

CE 16 CVZ 17 LS 15.5 AM 16 RP 16
★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Miles Mossop Saskia
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
November 2005

Cabernet Sauvignon

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Boekenhoutskloof
Alc 13.81% RS 2.7g/l pH 3.64 TA 5.7g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
May 2002
Red fruit and some mint on the nose. Palate
shows sweet, dark fruit and sleek, polished
tannins.
CE 15 CVZ 14.5 LS 15.5 AM 18 RP 18.5

Neil Ellis Vineyard Selection
Alc 13.5% RS 1.7g/l pH 3.57 TA 5.9g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
April 2002
Cassis, leather and some leafiness on the
nose. The palate is medium bodied with
good fruit expression, well judged oak and
fresh acidity.
CE 15 CVZ 17 LS 15 AM 16.5 RP 16

Thelema
Alc 13.67% RS 1.2g/l pH 3.52 TA 5.6g/l
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE ,
April 2002
Hint of mint on both nose and palate. Juicy
fruit, fine tannins and fresh acidity make for
an elegant wine.
CE 16 CVZ 15.5 LS 16 AM 16 RP 17

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
De Trafford
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
April 2002

★ ★ ★ three stars
Rustenberg Peter Barlow
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
December 2001

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Le Riche Reserve
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
March 2001

★ ★ two stars
Signal Hill
Previous rating: 2 Stars in WINE,
November 2001

Merlot

★ ★ ★ three stars
De Trafford
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
March 2001
Vergenoegd
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
March 2002

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Overgaauw
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
March 2001

Pinotage
★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Simonsig Redhill
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
August 2001

★ ★ two stars
Groot Constantia
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
December 2000
L'Avenir
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
January 2001
corked

Kanonkop

Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,August 2001
Red blends

★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Beyerskloof
Alc 13.77 RS 2.2g/l pH 3.57 TA 6.2g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
September 2001
Cassis, some leafiness and spice on the nose.
Palate is full bodied but structured and well
balanced.
CE 18 CVZ 18 LS 16.5 AM 16 RP 16

★ ★ ★ ★ four stars
Buitenverwachting Christine
Alc 14.24% RS 1.7g/l pH 3.19 TA 6.1g/l
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
September 2002
Some savoury notes on nose. The palate is
medium bodied with dark fruit and good
tannic grip.
CE 15 CVZ 14 LS 17 AM 18 RP 16

Kanonkop Paul Sauer
Alc 13% RS 2.0g/l pH 3.59 TA 6.0g/l
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
September 2002
Ripe dark fruit on the nose and palate. Good
tannic grip and fresh acidity. Still youthful.
CE 18 CVZ 16 LS 18 AM 16 RP 14

Rustenberg John X Merriman
Alc 13.6% RS 1.5g/l pH 3.5 TA 6g/l
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE ,
September 2001
Dark fruit on the nose and palate. Rich and
full bodied with sleek, polished tannins and
fresh acidity. Still youthful.
CE 16 CVZ 15.5 LS 15 AM 17 RP 17

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Cordoba Crescendo
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
September 2002
Glen Carlou Grand Classique
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
September 2001
Vergelegen
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
February 2002

★ ★ ★ three stars
Jordan Cobblers Hill
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
September 2002
Morgenhof Premier Selection
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
July 2003
Rust en Vrede
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
October 2002
Simonsig Frans Malan
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
October 2002

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Grangehurst Nikela
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
December 2004

★ ★ two stars
Grangehurst
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
Previous rating: 3½ Stars in WINE,
October 2003
Simonsig Tiara
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE,
September 2002

Shiraz
★ ★ ★ ★ ✩ four and a half stars
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah
Alc 14.91% RS 2.5g/l pH 4.00 TA 4.8g/l
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
May 2002
Red fruit, lilies, chocolate and spice on the
nose. Medium bodied and elegant. Sweet,
juicy fruit balanced by fresh acidity. Well
integrated oak.
CE 17 CVZ 16 LS 16 AM 16 RP 19

★ ★ ★ ✩ three and a half stars
Stellenzicht Syrah
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
October 2001

★ ★ ✩ two and a half stars
Simonsig Merindol Syrah
Previous rating: 3 Stars in WINE, May 2002

★ ★ two stars
Groot Constantia Shiraz
Previous rating: 4½ Stars in WINE,
December 2000
PRICES: wines in each quality grouping
are listed in order of ascending price -
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

* Bottled under screwcap

Wine tasters: editor of WINE Magazine
Christian Eedes (chair) (CE), Master of Wine
Cathy van Zyl (CVZ), Ernie Els winemaker
Louis Strydom (LS), Cape Wine Master Allan
Mullins of Woolworths (AL) and retailer
Roland Peens of Wine Cellar (RP)