Cellar door review: Solms-Delta
Words by Carla Jankelowitz
A joint venture between neuroscientist Mark Solms and philanthropist Richard Astor has resulted in a social-upliftment project at the Franschhoek-based wine farm Solms-Delta – by drawing in the employees as active business partners through their Wijn de Caab trust. The estate has made some well-publicised strides in redressing the legacy of apartheid and slavery and, with the people and wines grounded in principles of hiervandaan (‘from this place’), a warmth exudes throughout the tasting room, restaurant and museum. Yet, it’s only on arrival at the wine farm that I find the true meaning of hiervandaan. And so my wine-tasting excursion begins
Photographs by Toby Murphy and Carla Jankelowitz
The gates open and we are welcomed into the Solms-Delta estate, passing the edible fynbos garden and, a little way further, the cellar doors. The cellar facade was recently repainted by internationally acclaimed artist Joachim Schönfeldt, illustrating a map of the Cape. We admire it before heading straight for the museum where the wine tasting takes place.
The Museum van de Caab is dark and moody, but is contrasted by the goldentoothed smile of Evann Boonzaaier, a museum and wine assistant, who greets us warmly. Themed with the stories of slavery and apartheid, the brooding displays trace much of the local history from data recorded as far back as 1690.
We head outside into the gardens to begin cheering our spirits with a bit of wine. The surrounding green hues are offset by the wooden benches and white walls of the museum. For a few minutes we simply stare out at the vineyards ahead, but are soon jolted back to reality by Evann.
We learn that each wine in the Solms- Delta range has a story behind the name, and he humorously indulges us with wicked tales. It all begins with the Vastrap 2010 (R55), an easy-drinking, fruity wine named after the vastrap dance of the Khoi San. It’s filled with fruity flavours and a racy acidity. We move on to the Amalie 2010 (R95), a blend of Viognier and Grenache Blanc, named after Dutch Princess Amalie zu Solms-Braunfels whose grandson, King of England, William III, was instrumental in the resettlement of the French Huguenots in the valley around Solms-Delta in the late 17th century.
After the history lesson we move on to the Langarm 2010 (R55), a big blend of Pinotage, Touriga Naçional, Tannat, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Primitivo – a tribute to the ‘mood of the Cape’. Next, the Hiervandaan 2007 (R108). This wine, as Evann puts it, is “for real men, not for sissies”. Clearly he’d never met a real lady. I’m told that the prized red is the Africana 2008 (R174) – Shiraz dessicated on the vine. It’s dark and bold with a raisined, floral nose, yet I still prefer the Hiervandaan with its intense aromas and deep, layered flavours. We end the tasting on a sweet note with the Gemoedsrus (R188), meaning ‘peace of mind’, but also a reference to one of the last songs produced by a Solms-Delta employee killed in a car accident. This innovative Port-style wine is made of Shiraz grapes, desiccated on the vine and fortified with husk spirit (grappa). At R25 per glass, this is the only drink we have had to pay for.
It was later, while watching the Springboks take on Wales, I realised hiervandaaan not only refers to the terroir of the land, but also embodies the spirit of the people – who are proudly from this place.
VERDICT
LIKES
Knowledgeable, welcoming staff. An intense historical display of the farm’s people and SA’s past.
DISLIKES
The museum is as sombre as some of SA’s history, and a glass of wine is desperately needed.
WHAT ELSE IS THERE?
Stay and enjoy lunch at Fyndraai or picnic on the lawns. Take in the scenery – and enjoy the wine – at nearby Allée Bleue, Boschendal and L’Ormarins, where there is the Rupert Motor Museum.
SOLMS-DELTA is located off the R45, 12km from the N1 at Paarl. The tasting room is open 9:00 to 17:00 Sunday to Thursday and from.9:00 to 18:00 on Fridays and Saturdays.
Tel: 021 874 3937,
www.solms-delta.co.za
Many thanks Letitia "