Bosman's
Published: 01 Oct 03
Category: Fine Dining
The Grande Roche was named best hotel in South Africa only three years after opening. In a decade's critical assessment of Bosman's (the restaurant celebrated its 10th an
niversary in 2001) I've experienced only one hiccup: a floury crêpe
Suzette. And before I'd had time to voice a complaint, the restaurant manager
had already kicked ass in the kitchen.
There's something infinitely soothing about Africa's gracious, first and only Relais Gourmand hotel restaurant: the knowledge that you're in capable hands, that the ambience is elegant, the appointments fine, the winelist superb and the sommelier's advice impeccable. And that a litany of delights will flow from the kitchen.
Initially seen as a bastion of culinary tradition, there's been an appreciable lightening of atmosphere as dining norms have relaxed. Though silver cloches are still lifted in unison, the ritual draws attention to the perfect plating without conferring formality on your meal. And the gracious 18th century homestead is now showing her ankles - at a new bistro setting beside the pool.
While service standards are reassuringly constant, there's nothing predictable about the food - save prime ingredients. Laid-back Frank Zlomke, executive chef since 1995, re-invents himself daily in dishes that depend on what's freshly available, his style reflecting his participation in world gourmet events, plus cooking stints at Hong Kong's Omin Hotel and Singapore's Orchard restaurant.
There are set menus, though the options listed vary. You can challenge your palate with the options of vegetarian, flavours of the Cape (the bobotie is duck and prawn), Cape sea (offering sought-after fish), à la carte - even low-fat gourmet, which is no contradiction in terms with dishes like salmon trout confit, sushi rice and wasabi dressing; and Karoo lamb with buffalo mozzarella, gratinated rocket-pepper ragout and Provençal jus.
Or you can save yourself for the gourmet carte, a flavour odyssey that could encompass a tastebud-entrancing foie gras and brioche sandwich, enhanced by port wine reduction; or truffled wild mushroom broth with spinach ravioli. Crayfish is presented as lasagne with sautéed spinach and its own intense bisque; or roasted, set in lemongrass and coconut broth, with wok-fried vegetables. Melted foie gras anoints springbok loin with mushroom risotto and pinotage jus; foie gras sauce lifts cherry coated loin of rooibok to gourmet heights.
And strawberry carpaccio with baked chocolate pudding and white chocolate pesto is no anticlimax.
Round off the evening from the laden cheese trolley, and should a cigar seem in order, browse through the impressive list for the smoke that sets your imagination alight.
3-course lunch R165
4-course vegetarian R295
4-course dinner R320
7-course gourmet R550
(R700 with wine)
The Grande Roche was named best hotel in South Africa only three years after opening. In a decade's critical assessment of Bosman's (the restaurant celebrated its 10th an
There's something infinitely soothing about Africa's gracious, first and only Relais Gourmand hotel restaurant: the knowledge that you're in capable hands, that the ambience is elegant, the appointments fine, the winelist superb and the sommelier's advice impeccable. And that a litany of delights will flow from the kitchen.
Initially seen as a bastion of culinary tradition, there's been an appreciable lightening of atmosphere as dining norms have relaxed. Though silver cloches are still lifted in unison, the ritual draws attention to the perfect plating without conferring formality on your meal. And the gracious 18th century homestead is now showing her ankles - at a new bistro setting beside the pool.
While service standards are reassuringly constant, there's nothing predictable about the food - save prime ingredients. Laid-back Frank Zlomke, executive chef since 1995, re-invents himself daily in dishes that depend on what's freshly available, his style reflecting his participation in world gourmet events, plus cooking stints at Hong Kong's Omin Hotel and Singapore's Orchard restaurant.
There are set menus, though the options listed vary. You can challenge your palate with the options of vegetarian, flavours of the Cape (the bobotie is duck and prawn), Cape sea (offering sought-after fish), à la carte - even low-fat gourmet, which is no contradiction in terms with dishes like salmon trout confit, sushi rice and wasabi dressing; and Karoo lamb with buffalo mozzarella, gratinated rocket-pepper ragout and Provençal jus.
Or you can save yourself for the gourmet carte, a flavour odyssey that could encompass a tastebud-entrancing foie gras and brioche sandwich, enhanced by port wine reduction; or truffled wild mushroom broth with spinach ravioli. Crayfish is presented as lasagne with sautéed spinach and its own intense bisque; or roasted, set in lemongrass and coconut broth, with wok-fried vegetables. Melted foie gras anoints springbok loin with mushroom risotto and pinotage jus; foie gras sauce lifts cherry coated loin of rooibok to gourmet heights.
And strawberry carpaccio with baked chocolate pudding and white chocolate pesto is no anticlimax.
Round off the evening from the laden cheese trolley, and should a cigar seem in order, browse through the impressive list for the smoke that sets your imagination alight.
3-course lunch R165
4-course vegetarian R295
4-course dinner R320
7-course gourmet R550
(R700 with wine)
by Jos Baker
Address: The Grande Roche, Plantasie Street, Paarl. Tel 021 863 2727. Breakfast, lunch & dinner daily. Closed annually Jun-Aug. Secure parking on premises. Cigar lounge.
Food: 5
Wine list5
Ambience: 5
Service: 5
Value: 5
