Champagne food pairing
Naughty but nice
Bon Appétit was the restaurant of choice when Jeanri-Tine van Zyl was tasked with finding a partner for a “mischievous” Champagne.
Lovers of classic French cuisine should have Bon Appétit restaurant in Simon’s Town on speed dial. Situated opposite the harbour, this quaint, low-key restaurant, headed by French chef Manu (Emmanuel) Guillet, was the obvious choice when it came to finding a food partner for a Champagne described by its producers as having “an enormous, mischievous and very harmonious personality”.
Guillet opened Bon Appétit with wife Judith nine years ago, having completed his Michelin apprenticeship in Brittany. Gourmet travels worldwide included a stint as a restaurateur in India, and catering for André Agassi’s wedding to Brooke Shields: “The fact that their marriage was not a success had nothing to do with the food!” He jokingly laments not being able to do anything but cook – “It is my passion” – and describes being happily settled in this corner of Cape Town as the highlight of a career that includes a long list of awards.
Darting between kitchen and ringing phones, Guillet praises the Gosset Grande Réserve – which rated 3½ Stars in this month’s blind tasting (see p. 109) – for its distinct floral, brioche and red berry nose, and claims to have known instantly what it called for: “When I heard Champagne, I thought strawberry, and when I tasted them together, I knew it was lovely stuff .”
No oysters, then? Shrugging his shoulders Guillet nonchalantly says that in France it is more traditional to have Champagne with dessert. Besides, he adds, with a Champagne as complex as this one, you have to keep food simple so as not to conflict with the wine: the berry taste of the Champagne is transmitted to and then replaced by that of the strawberry-laden dishes, accentuating the mouthfeel and finish.
Not one for flowery language, a pleased Guillet concludes: “If it’s good it’s good – that’s all!”
Fraise Champagne
Makes 12
TUILES (PASTRY CORNETS)
100g flour
60g castor sugar
100g butter
2 egg whites
Melt the butter. Mix the sugar and flour together, then stir in the egg whites. Add the cooled butter. Refrigerate for one hour. On baking paper, spread mixture thinly in an oblong 8x5cm square. Bake at 180°C for 5 minutes until golden. Remove from oven and form a cone, holding in place until set. Keep in a covered container.
STRAWBERRY AND CHAMPAGNE SOUP
6 fresh strawberries
1 T castor sugar
100ml Champagne or sparkling wine
Blend the strawberries with the sugar in a blender.
Add the Champagne and chill.
CHANTILLY
200ml cream
1 T icing sugar
1 T sparkling wine or Champagne
4 fresh strawberries
Whip the cream until stiff and fold in sieved icing sugar. Fold in the sparkling wine followed by the finely chopped strawberries. Chill.
CHAMPAGNE SABAYON
2 yolks
1 T castor sugar
150ml sparkling wine or Champagne
Place all ingredients in a bowl. Place over a pan of boiling water (do not let the water touch the bottom of the bowl). Whisk by hand or with an electric beater until thick and fluffy and use immediately.
To plate the dish
CHANTILLY STRAWBERRIES
Slice the tops of three large strawberries and cut the very tip off the base, then disgorge them. Fill each strawberry with the Chantilly and place on the plate.
GRATIN OF STRAWBERRIES (makes 4) Quarter four strawberries. Place four pieces in the bottom of a flat little sushi sauce bowl. Pour over Sabayon. Using a blow torch, torch each little dish until golden or place directly under a hot grill.
SOUP
Pour the soup into a long shot glass. Place cornets in the glass and fi ll with Chantilly and a small ball of vanilla ice cream. Decorate with strawberries.
Bon Appétit, 90 St. Georges Street, Simon’s Town. Tel 021 786 2412.
