Bombay Blues
Situated at the end of the pedestrianised Cradock Avenue, it adds a serene sense of style to the bustling café culture that ebbs and flows around Rosebank Mall.
Huge picture windows provide an inviting glimpse into the warmly lit
interior, with its contemporary beechwood panelling and recessed wall
mirrors accentuated by slender sprays of orchids. But the centre of attraction
is the kitchen. It's like the helm on a ship's deck and encased in windows
through which you can view the tandoor ovens in action and the chefs deftly
whirling the dough for the handkerchief-thin Rumali roti.
While the restaurant's feel is modern, the cuisine is proudly traditional,
drawn from the era of the Nawabs of North India, where the "Dum Pukht"
style of cooking originated.
The tandoor ovens work overtime, offering char-grilled chicken, lamb,
seafood and vegetarian kebabs. The Tandoori Tarkari, a selection of marinated
and grilled vegetables, is a munchy, spice-imbued starter to share. More
spectacular is the Raan Bombay Blue - leg of baby lamb marinated overnight,
slow-cooked in the tandoor and flambéed to great effect at the
table.
Other sizzlers come from the Tawa, the Indian Griddle that's used like
a wok. If prawns are your thing, try Tawa Jhingha Peshawari - succulent
fresh prawns marinated in spices and tossed with capsicum, onions and
tomatoes.
There's a huge variety of curries. Ordering individual dishes and sharing
makes the most sense. The sensuous Murg Makhanwala (butter chicken) with
its spicy, buttery, tomato-based cream sauce has to be eaten with Rumali
roti, to mop up every drop. Although described as mild, the Saag Gosht,
another well-known Punjabi dish, had a satisfying bite. The lamb was butter-tender,
engulfed in a more-ish sauce of blended fresh spinach and spices.
Other must-haves include the incredible assortment of traditional Indian
breads, the rich homemade Indian ice-cream, Kulfi, and the creamy, fragrant
rice pudding, Phirni.
The contemporary mood extends to the service. The serving staff is young,
engaging and professional, with just a shimmer of Bombay colour in their
waistcoats.
And what a delight to find an extensive winelist with a well-chosen selection
of smaller producers at an Indian restaurant. The list is still "under
construction" and its aim is a total of 120 different labels. Before
completion, I'd suggest that vintages be added to the helpful descriptions
and that some Riesling or Gewürz-traminer be introduced to complement
the spicy food. However, good table-fellows are fruity Chenins, Villiera
Sonnet (R60) and Vergelegen Vin de Florence (R44). Sought-after labels
include Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay (R100 and R110) and
Meerlust Pinot Noir Reserve (R215), Merlot (R200), Chardonnay (R200) and
Rubicon (R350).
Average three-course meal: R175.
By Alice Coetzee
Address: STANDARD BANK BUILDING, CNR CRADOCK & TYRWHITT AVENUES, ROSEBANK. TEL 011 447 3210/4658. LUNCH AND DINNER DAILY. ALL FOOD HALAAL. BYO R50. SMOKING SECTION. OUTDOOR TABLES, WEATHER PERMITTING. PARKING AT ROSEBANK MALL OR OUTSIDE THE RESTAURANT.
Food: 3.5
Wine list3
Ambience: 3.5
Service: 4
Value: 3.5
