Bellingham The Maverick Chenin Blanc 2002

Fiona McDonald discovers why Bellingham honours unorthodox thinking.

More than 50 years ago a pair of colourful ex-London socialites, Bernard and Fredagh Podlashuk, bought a derelict Franschhoek farm called Bellingham - and even sold some of Fredagh's diamonds to complete the renovations.

 

As Bellingham's first winemaker, Bernard Podlashuk was at the forefront of the country's winemaking efforts in the '40s, '50s and '60s, trying new techniques and making wines the local market had never seen - among them Bellingham Rosé, the country's first Shiraz and Premier Grand Cru, a dry white blend which soon became hugely popular.

Long-term Franschhoek residents fondly remember "Mr and Mrs Pod", as the distinctive duo affectionately came to be known.

While there's no doubt that some of the tales about the Pods have been embellished over the years, they were true characters. In fact, Mr Pod was not only a character, he was a maverick, what the dictionary defines as "an unorthodox or independent-minded person".

One of the brazen stunts he pulled off involved sending a few bottles of Premier Grand Cru to Sir Vernon Thompson, chairman of the Union Castle Line, in an attempt to get the wine listed on board.

The accompanying note from Mr Podlashuk explained he had it on good authority that this wine was Sir Vernon's favourite tipple. It turned out Sir Vernon was a teetotaller…but Pod's chutzpah was appreciated and the wine was listed anyway! It's this individualism that Bellingham salutes in the wines that carry the Maverick label. The adventurous spirit of Pod "forms the cornerstone of Bellingham", the Maverick label states, "and lives on in every glass".

The Maverick label will appear only on wines which stand out from the rest, are distinctive in character and markedly independent, says DGB group product manager Vera Orffer.

Winemaker Graham Weerts created two character-filled products for the inaugural launch of the label - one a maiden Viognier, the other a Chenin Blanc. The Chenin Blanc 2002 was made from a unique patch of 34-year-old vines located on the ridge of the Bottelary Hills outside Stellenbosch.

"The vines were in a truly sad state - old bush vines - but the fruit was amazing," says Weerts. He was thrilled by the intensity of the flavours and the even-ripening - even though the yields were very low.

The Chenin Blanc was barrel-fermented but not aged in wood and had a smidgeon (10%) of Viognier added to flesh out the palate.

Appointed Bellingham winemaker only a few months before the 2002 crush, Weerts was undaunted by the challenge. "Making these wines," he says, "was a lot of fun."