Backsberg tasting room review
BACKSBERG - kiss, kiss
Founded by Sydney Back in 1936, this family-run farm (now owned by son Michael), on the Simondium road is focused on producing wines undoubtedly aimed more at the man-in-the-street than the wine snob.
As for winemaking style, this is based on the so-called kiss prinicple ("keep it simple, stupid"), which boils down to getting it right in the vineyard. They also seemingly apply the kiss-principle at the cellar door.
A tarred road runs up to a homely, not to say unenticing tasting centre. It is a Saturday but there is no problem finding parking here. On the lawn adjacent to the tasting room, a spit-braai is being prepared for diners at the restaurant. A vine-leaf pergola area outside lends a clichéd, but relaxing note to the ambience.
The interior is less appealing with bottles displayed as if in a fruit-stall. I am all for keeping it real but barrels accesorised with grainbag arrangements is just a bit old-school. We stand at the counter (where there are no seats) and wait to get served - by the attendant who seemingly just had to finish his smoke...
That said, once tending to us, he does this with dedication and focus - which is easy since there are two attendants and only one other couple in the room.
Which is why, given the go-slow atmosphere, it is strange that tastings can't be conducted outside, or at tables where there's seating. When asked about this, the attendant informs that tastings are only done outside when people pay for this. Eh? We are paying R15 for our tasting (for five wines from a selection of about thirty) - but it obviously does not warrant "special" treatment. This makes for an unneccasarily clumsy arrangement of tasting wines outside and refilling at the counter.
There is a lot of value to be found though, with the Chenin Blanc 2008 and Sauvignon Blanc 2008 indeed being "fun and fruity" with prices to match. Even in the "serious" ranges, reasonably priced finds are many, the red-blends Aldorina 2007 (R56) and Elbar 2006 (R59) stand out as being attractively priced.
Although stay away from their Kosher wines, which tastes like flat Sparletta. Best to wash it down with some of their 10-year old Sydney Back Brandy. I leave after a self-guided tour of the premises reveals some interesting corners...
Tel 021 8755 141, www.backsberg.co.za.
OPEN: Mon - Sun 08:00 - 17:00
Sat 09:30 - 16:30 & Sun 10:30 - 16:00
SERVICE: 5/10 - why can't you
be served at the tables?
AMBIENCE: 6/10 - depends what
you go for. Outside area is beautiful.
VALUE: 7/10 - especially in their
‘Fun and Fruity' range.
QUALITY: 6/10 - "drinkability"
is the word.


