Cellar door review: Stark-Condé
We set out on one of those sparkling autumn days, appreciating the rust hue of the oak tree-lined lane into the Jonkershoek Valley. Stark-Condé is a winery well worth visiting as its setting is certainly out of the ordinary. Beneath weeping willow trees, the pagoda-style wooden lodge is located in the middle of a pretty dam, with a winding wooden walkway that leads from the mainland onto this kind of ‘tasting-room island’. The pagodas were brought in from Bali, shipped over in pieces with Hans Schröder assembling them here by hand. It is a storybook setting on the wooden deck seated at tables discretely interspersed, surrounded by the huge facing Jonkershoek, Twin Peaks and Stellenbosch mountains.
Photograph by Riehan Bakkes
The tasting room has been open for about a year, and there are three main tasting ranges: Pepin Condé, made from grapes sourced outside Jonkershoek and great everyday drinking; Stark-Condé/ Stellenbosch in a medium price range; and Three Pines, the estate’s special premium range made from single-vineyard blocks and named after the three pines, a lookout point on the hills in the vineyard.
The wines are excellent; Pepin Condé Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2010 and Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc 2010 (R75) both crisp and refreshing, the Sauvignon with bursts of passion fruit, and the Chenin from bushvines with white peach essence and a rounded finish. The Pepin Condé Elgin Pinot Noir 2010 is elegant with its red fruit and sour cherry flavour profile – not bad for Pinot at R95. The Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 is R125 and the Three Pines Syrah 2008 R240.
Finally, the red blend made with neighbouring farm Lingen, a blend of 45% Cabernet, 45% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot, shows a depth of flavour and complexity and some potential for developing well with a bit of age. Certainly one of the favourites of the day at R135. The wines from the Jonkershoek Valley are from grapes at the family owned Oude Nektar farm. The vineyard elevations on Oude Nektar range from 150 to 600 metres, resulting in differing climates within this zone. About 40 hectares of the property are under vine, while the remaining 200 hectares are maintained as indigenous vegetation. A small ward, Jonkershoek Valley imparts unique characteristics that distinguish the resulting wines. Temperatures are cooler than most of Stellenbosch with its higher winter rainfall.
The wines are handcrafted in small volumes using traditional methods such as hand-sorting, open-top fermentations, with punchdowns and basket-pressing by hand.
It’s a small bottling at Stark-Condé, done without fining and filtration. Winemakers are José Condé and, from 2010, Michelle Rhodes, and Pieter Smit is a viticulturist of some 20 years experience.
Not only is there an idyllic setting beside which to enjoy the wine, but Stark-Condé also has the Postcard Café. A small, select menu with attention to detail in every dish, including the butternut and bacon quiche (R50), open sandwiches with meatballs and pesto on sourdough bread (R59). They have also taken the time to suggest wine pairings.
Coffee is available for sale (R56), either bought in bean form or it can be ground at the café/deli -– the home-made cakes and tarts also looked delectable.
VERDICT
LIKES
The setting and ambience of being by the water, the great service by our charismatic pourer and a well condensed range of quality wines.
DISLIKES
Each tasting tot was a bit on the stingy side; 24.5ml was stringently adhered to!
WHAT ELSE IS THERE?
Not far down the road, Le Riche is renowned for its Cabernet.
Lanzerac with its historic estate now offers alfresco Sunday lunch. Auberge Rozendal has old vintages for sale and award-winning vinegar.
STARK-CONDÉ is located on the Jonkershoek Road, Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, and is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 to 16:00.
GPS: S33°57’13.104” • E18°54’38.232”
Tel 021 887 3665
www.stark-conde.co.za
