Aromatic Fog, St James
Published: 01 Jul 07
Category: Contemporary
ecause there were many more positives out of our visit than negatives.
It's a very pleasant space - high roof with exposed wooden beams, earthy-coloured walls, tasteful lighting behind vertical cheesecloth panels, tables well-spaced, comfortable chairs in faux-suede, excellent glassware and crockery, and extra touches like tall, wooden salt and pepper grinders on each table.
The food was, by and large, very good - an interesting menu with a comfortable degree of eclectism. It's cooked in an open kitchen and served by staff who are unfailingly willing and cheerful, even if not particularly knowledgeable about the food and wine on offer.
Both starters were good to look at and equally good to eat. The tomato tartlet was served in really yummy, crispy pastry and the accompanying pimento sauce was an effective counterpoint to the dominant roasted tomato flavour. The Chef's salad was colourful and varied, with a special thumbs-up to the dressing of avocado oil and melon vinegar. Perhaps it would have been improved by having the boiled egg prepared just before serving, but that's a minor caveat.
It took a while to make the main course choices, because just about everything appealed. Eventually Thai beef curry won out, spiced exactly according to my specification and very satisfying, with the proviso that slightly less stringy beef would have improved the dish. The second choice was braised pork belly with port sauce, creamed truffle potatoes, and a vegetable and mushroom tart. The accompaniments were excellent, but the dish was spoiled by the excess fat of the pork.
The junior Maythams made up their own pizzas from the long list of available toppings, and pronounced them better than any others in the neighbourhood. The one dessert tried - pear and apple crumble with almonds, raisins and vanilla ice cream - was my favourite dish of the evening. It was served in a deep, small cast-iron frying pan and was fresh and appealing. There's a real bonus in the fact that the children can have pizza or one of the pastas on the menu, while others in the party can choose something a little more sophisticated. You don't often get that flexibility from one place.
The winelist is dull - the most disappointing part of the evening. A restaurant with these culinary aspirations should work a lot harder at finding more interesting wines, and should definitely stock at least something from the Constantia Valley or Cape Point Vineyards. Du Preez Sauvignon Blanc is R55; Hartenberg Chardonnay is R112; Milton Grove Shiraz is R65, and Paul Cluver Pinot Noir is R170. Vintages are not supplied.
So, lots more ticks in the positive column than in the negative, and still the conundrum of why so many empty tables when other eateries in the area with patchier food are often much fuller. My tentative theory would be that the location might be to blame. Literally, a stone's throw from the sea might sound like a winning formula, but when you can't see the sea - the only view is of the St James railway station building - it's perhaps subliminally off-putting, and potential patrons drive further along Main Road into Kalk Bay where the views are better. It's a pity, because Aromatic Fog serves good food at decent prices, and I'm not sure I want to go back again unless I'm pretty certain there'll be a better buzz about. Eating in a near-empty restaurant, even when the food is very good, can be depressing.
Average cost of a three course meal (without wine): R150.
Address: Cape Town, 56 Main Road, St. James. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Street parking. Corkage R20. Tel: 021 788 6542
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
Every time I've passed the restaurant, either driving or walking, there have been many empty tables and few occupied ones. Why is not an easy question to answer b
It's a very pleasant space - high roof with exposed wooden beams, earthy-coloured walls, tasteful lighting behind vertical cheesecloth panels, tables well-spaced, comfortable chairs in faux-suede, excellent glassware and crockery, and extra touches like tall, wooden salt and pepper grinders on each table.
The food was, by and large, very good - an interesting menu with a comfortable degree of eclectism. It's cooked in an open kitchen and served by staff who are unfailingly willing and cheerful, even if not particularly knowledgeable about the food and wine on offer.
Both starters were good to look at and equally good to eat. The tomato tartlet was served in really yummy, crispy pastry and the accompanying pimento sauce was an effective counterpoint to the dominant roasted tomato flavour. The Chef's salad was colourful and varied, with a special thumbs-up to the dressing of avocado oil and melon vinegar. Perhaps it would have been improved by having the boiled egg prepared just before serving, but that's a minor caveat.
It took a while to make the main course choices, because just about everything appealed. Eventually Thai beef curry won out, spiced exactly according to my specification and very satisfying, with the proviso that slightly less stringy beef would have improved the dish. The second choice was braised pork belly with port sauce, creamed truffle potatoes, and a vegetable and mushroom tart. The accompaniments were excellent, but the dish was spoiled by the excess fat of the pork.
The junior Maythams made up their own pizzas from the long list of available toppings, and pronounced them better than any others in the neighbourhood. The one dessert tried - pear and apple crumble with almonds, raisins and vanilla ice cream - was my favourite dish of the evening. It was served in a deep, small cast-iron frying pan and was fresh and appealing. There's a real bonus in the fact that the children can have pizza or one of the pastas on the menu, while others in the party can choose something a little more sophisticated. You don't often get that flexibility from one place.
The winelist is dull - the most disappointing part of the evening. A restaurant with these culinary aspirations should work a lot harder at finding more interesting wines, and should definitely stock at least something from the Constantia Valley or Cape Point Vineyards. Du Preez Sauvignon Blanc is R55; Hartenberg Chardonnay is R112; Milton Grove Shiraz is R65, and Paul Cluver Pinot Noir is R170. Vintages are not supplied.
So, lots more ticks in the positive column than in the negative, and still the conundrum of why so many empty tables when other eateries in the area with patchier food are often much fuller. My tentative theory would be that the location might be to blame. Literally, a stone's throw from the sea might sound like a winning formula, but when you can't see the sea - the only view is of the St James railway station building - it's perhaps subliminally off-putting, and potential patrons drive further along Main Road into Kalk Bay where the views are better. It's a pity, because Aromatic Fog serves good food at decent prices, and I'm not sure I want to go back again unless I'm pretty certain there'll be a better buzz about. Eating in a near-empty restaurant, even when the food is very good, can be depressing.
Average cost of a three course meal (without wine): R150.
By John Maytham
Address: Cape Town, 56 Main Road, St. James. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Street parking. Corkage R20. Tel: 021 788 6542
Food:
Wine list
Ambience:
Service:
Value:
