An unsung hero, durbanville

Durbanville is a well kept ‘secret’ relative to wine routes such as Stellenbosch, Franschhoek . . .Perhaps it’s because until recently the area has been responsible predominantly for supplying grapes to other wineries outside the area… Perhaps it’s because there are only six wine-producing farms… Or perhaps it’s because the owners of the farms declare themselves ‘mos boere’, and concentrate more on farming and doing their own thing, than positioning themselves under the spotlight.

 

Whatever the reason, Durbanville is a well kept ‘secret’ relative to wine routes such as Stellenbosch, Franschhoek… There is no big tourism body, no sizeable marketing drive and very few of the signboards associated with other better-known wine routes. In fact, if you’re not from the area, it isn’t even that easy to find.

But, if you appreciate good wine, are in Cape Town, and don’t feel like driving too far, Durbanville offers wine-lovers a do-able number of farms and (most often) the personal service of the farm owner, or the winemaker himself. Those ‘in the know’ attribute Durbanville’s success in grape-growing to its good, deep soils, varied aspects of the slopes and cool winds from the nearby Atlantic Ocean. This makes for a milder climate, and proper ripening of the grapes, ideal conditions for the growing of noble cultivars. So much so, that grapes are bought from the area by the KWV, Nederburg, and a host of other premium wine producers in Paarl, Stellenbosch and elsewhere.
First-time visitors to Durbanville might notice some common threads running through most of the farms. The first is the enthusiasm for their Sauvignon Blanc (especially this year’s harvest). The second is how often the word ‘flavour’ comes up when referring to their grapes. And the third is the strong feeling of camaraderie between the farmers. To celebrate this, a wine was specially created to symbolise the collective vision of Altydgedacht, Bloemendal, Diemersdal and Nitìda – this time with a red-wine focus. Called ‘The Wines of Durbanville’, the full-bodied ’97 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend was made by combining the best barrel from each cellar, hand-picked by Jackie Coetzee, Tienie Louw, Oliver and John Parker and Bernhard Veller. The wine comes in a gift pack, together with a delicate handpainted glass, and is available from all four cellars at R150.

Diemersdal, with its heavy Cape Dutch architecture and beautiful gables, dates back to 1698, with wine being produced intermittently since 1706. The farm came into the hands of the Louw family in 1885, and today, Tienie Louw is the fourth generation of Louws on the estate. And to lead the farm forward into the next generation, Springbok speed-skiing son Thys, now in matric, will join Diemersdal’s winemaking team in the next five years.

Tienie recalls that in spite of the fact they have been farming quality grapes for centuries, theirs has not been a history of fine winemaking all the way. Tienie’s grandmother believed winemaking a sin. This meant all the grapes were sent to his grandfather’s vinegar factory, to be turned to vinegar. It was only in 1947, after the death of Oupa Tienie, that wine was made at Diemersdal once again, and supplied to KWV in bulk until 1995.

Today Tienie supplies the Swiss-owned SAVISA (an export organisation with cellars in Paarl and Stellenbosch) with 90% of his wine. The remaining 10% he holds back, ageing in barrels and selling locally under the estate’s label. No stranger to awards, the 1994 Diemersdal Pinotage won a Veritas Gold in 1997. In the same year, Diemersdal Private Collection 1994 – a Bordeaux-style blend – scooped a gold at the Michaelangelo awards.

Not far from Diemersdal is Altydgedacht, another historic farm dating from 1698. Still its original 415ha size, with 120ha currently under vine, Oliver (the winemaker) and John Parker are the fifth generation to continue the family’s winemaking tradition. Thick, white-washed walls and old oaks encircle the farm, separating it from the encroaching city. Until the mid ’60s, Altydgedacht’s crop was made into wine in the farm cellar, before being sold in bulk to Monis of Paarl for final blending and bottling. And when Monis bought Nederburg, the relationship continued, although Altydgedacht was then required to supply grapes rather than wine. Today Altydgedacht continues to supply 90% of its grapes to Nederburg. Some 17 varieties are grown, including two table varieties… Flaming Tokai and Hanepoot.
As with Diemersdal, the Parker brothers retain 10% of the crop to make their own wine. Their 1995 Pinotage was crowned champion in WINE’s annual Pinotage taste-off back in ’97. And theirs is the only winery in the country to bottle Barbera. Meerendal dates back to 1702, when Governor Willem Adriaan van der Stel granted the farm to Jan Meerland. When the Starke family bought the estate in 1929, only a small vineyard existed. But it was large enough to display Meerendal’s potential as a wine-producing farm, and consequently the wheatfields were converted in the early ’30s: today, 114ha of the 370ha estate are under vines.

The Cape Dutch Homestead is considered a landmark in the Durbanville area, and The Loft, situated above the wine cellar is an ideal, and scenic setting for tastings. With its 150-year old Oregon pine floors and wooden beams, it’s hardly surprising that people hire the facility as a function room or conference venue. (It is also ideal for small weddings, although PRO and chef Francois Ferreira says he prefers to do second weddings, rather than ‘meringues’). Francois, who was once Head of the Household for the State President, is in the process of establishing The Loft as a cabaret venue, educating people on the balance between food and wine. He claims he has no technical background, but conducts tastings on a more ‘sensual’ level.

Winemaker Soon Potgieter, who has been working on the estate for 27 years, also had no formal training – and insists Nature was his university. Nature is obviously good at her job, considering the vast and varied number of awards Meerendal has landed. Soon has been at Meerendal since the start of his winemaking career, initially under the guidance of Kosie Starke, and considers the ’98 Meerendal Natural Sweet his best-ever. It seems Veritas agreed, awarding it a Gold in 1998. Meerendal is also particularly well-known for its red wines, namely Cabernet Sauvigonon, Merlot, Pinotage and Shiraz.

Bloemendal, Nitìda and Durbanville Hills can all be found on the M13, or Tygerberg Valley Road. The 300 year-old Bloemendal was bought by the grandfather of current owner Jackie Coetzee in the 1800s. Grandfather put up the original cellar in 1920, and Jackie is still using the same tanks, which he has had redone inside. Jackie’s father planted significant quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon and other noble cultivars, and Jackie too has built a notable reputation as a supplier of grapes for award-winning wines – not least of which is his own Sauvignon Blanc.
In spite of intense heat and drought, Jackie says he is amazed at the flavours coming from the Sauvignon Blanc grapes just harvested. He believes they are even better than last year, suggesting that the vines have adapted to the heat. He is less impressed with the Chardonnay harvested, believing it will need to be built in the cellar again. When it comes to reds, he is very excited about this year’s Merlot crop. “Intense mulberry flavours are already showing in the grape, although the vines look terrible due to the South Easter,” he laughs. The Cabernet Sauvignon also looks promising, with more mintiness and eucalyptus this year. Cabernet berries are slightly smaller this year, making the flavours that much more intense.

A little further up Tygerberg Valley Road is Nitìda, the newest and smallest wine-producing cellar in the area. Nitìda is the botanical name for a type of Protea, and means refined, cultured, bright and shiny. Appropriate, considering Nitìda is one of the most-awarded boutique cellars around. Owner Bernhard Veller and his wife Peta came from Johannesburg in 1990, and initially bought the 37 hectare farm purely as a place to stay. It did not take long for them to realise that they owned prime grape-growing land, with wonderful soil and an ideal micro-climate. So, in 1992, the first vines were planted – and the rest, as they say, is history. The first wine was made in 1995, and, as proof that the Vellers had taken the right route, the maiden Sauvignon Blanc was awarded a Double Gold at Veritas.

At the end of 1998, Bernhard left his full-time job as MD of Control Instruments’ Gauge Division and came onto the farm full-time. His father Gerhard, and mother Ursula, came on board in 1994. He says that whilst there are currently only 13 hectares under vine, the farm is still in a growth phase, and is only now starting to break even. Even so, he adds, it is very rewarding to watch it build up slowly but surely.

Their commitment is to quality first and foremost, and this philosophy seems to have paid off time and again. Nitìda’s ’98 Chardonnay was awarded Double Gold at Veritas, and WINE gave the Shiraz an outstanding 4 Star rating.

Nitìda’s wine is popular overseas too, with 40% exported to Europe. And yet, the Vellers’ aim is not to become too big and impersonal, but rather to remain accessible and non-pretentious, even if it means accepting smaller margins. “We are not looking for buses of tourists” they say. “Not even mini-buses. Like the other Durbanville winemakers, we’d rather attract the more serious wine-lover.” Theirs is truly a family business, and the Vellers hope that this hands-on approach comes through in the 5000 – 6000 cases of wine they produce each year. Bernhard thinks that considering the terroir, it is most likely they will become known for their Sauvignon Blanc and their Merlot.

A little further on, at the end of the Durbanville wine route, overlooking Table Mountain, is Durbanville Hills. The cellar is a joint venture between Distillers Corporation and seven Durbanville vineyard owners – Klein Roosboom, Ongegund, Hooggelegen, Hillcrest, Maastricht, Bloemendal and Hooge Bergs Vallei. Durbanville Hills itself has no vineyards of its own to speak of, but buys in grapes from the above farms. Winemaker Martin Moore is very enthusiastic about the project, believing it allows him to have the best of all worlds. “Only the best, unique wines will go into the bottle, because what is lacking in one vineyard, is in abundance at the other.” Martin’s aim is to make wines that are full and fruity – drinkable after two years, but with maturation potential. He says that although Durbanville is in many ways similar to Constantia, in that it is hot in the day and cool at night – Martin was cellarmaster at Constantia for six years – he believes the area has the advantage of about an hour’s more sunlight. This, in addition to the dew at night and fog in the morning, is a great advantage when it comes to the ripening and colouring of the grapes. Nothing has been left to chance in this R70-million operation. Internationally renowned Biesenbach, of WJB Enterprises, meticulously designed the ultra-modern cellar.

Martin agrees with other Durbanville winemakers that the flavours from Sauvignon Blanc this year are exceptional, and says that the Merlot too is incredible. “Flavours here are difficult to get elsewhere,” he adds. Easy to see how the Merlot and Merlot/Cabernet were class winners at the Young Wine Show. Biesjes Craal Sauvignon Blanc 1999 has been very well received, according to Martin, who is confident it will last at least three years in the bottle. The Elsjes Corael Chardonnay 1999 was the other maiden release last year. And something to look forward to: four ’99 reds – Merlot, Merlot/Cab blend, Pinotage and a Cabernet Sauvignon – will be released in September.

If you’re looking for umpteen venues for lavish wine-farm lunches, charming accommodation, curio shops or picnic-under-the-oaks facilities, Durbanville may not be your ideal destination. But for unpretentious service and good wine, this unpolished gem is tough to beat.
FARMS TO VISIT - HOURS AND WINES AVAILABLE

Altydgedacht

Tel (021) 96 1295 Tygerberg Valley Road

Mon – Fri, 9am – 5pm Sat 9am – 1pm

Tastings free

Wines on offer: DRY WHITE: Chardonnay ’98, Gewürtztraminer ’99, Sauvignon Blanc ’99. RED: Cabernet Sauvignon ’96, Barbera ’96, Pinotage ’97, Shiraz ’96 SEMI-SWEET WHITE: Chatelaine ’99 from Bukettraube, Gewürztraminer

Bloemendal

Tel (021) 975 7575 Tygerberg Valley Road (M13)

Mon – Fri, 9am – 5pm Sat 9am – 1pm

Tastings free

Wines on offer DRY WHITE: Chardonnay ’99, Sauvignon Blanc ’99, Sémillon ’99 SPARKLING: Brut NV Cap Classique RED: Cabernet Sauvignon ’97, Merlot ’98

Diemersdal

Tel (021) 96 3361 Adderley Road

Mon – Fri, 9am – 5pm Sat 9am – 2pm

Tastings free

Wines on offer DRY WHITE: Chardonnay ’99 RED: Cabernet Sauvignon ’97, Pinotage ’97, Private Collection ’97 from Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot/Cabernet Franc, and Shiraz ’97

Durbanville Hills

Tel (021) 558 1300 M13, Durbanville extension of Tygerberg Valley Road

Mon – Fri, 9am – 5pm Sat closed

Tastings R8pp

Wines on offer DRY WHITE: Biesjes Craal Sauvignon Blanc ’99, Chardonnay Reserve ’99, Elsjes Corael Chardonnay ’99. RED: Caapmans Pinotage ’99, Luipardsbergen Merlot ’99, Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon ’99

Meerendal

Tel (021) 975 1655

Mon – Fri, 10am – 5pm Sat 10am – 1pm

Tastings R10pp

Wines on offer DRY WHITE: Blanc de Blanc ’98, Chardonnay ’98, Gewürztraminer ’98, Sauvignon Blanc ’99 off-DRY WHITE: Navette ’99 RED: Cabernet Sauvignon ’98, Merlot ’98, Pinotage ’95, Shiraz ’95. FORTIFIED: Natural Sweet ’98

Nitìda

Tel (021) 96 1467

Mon – Fri, 9am – 4.30pm Sat 9.30 – 1pm

Tasting free; neg. tour group fee

Wines on offer DRY WHITE: Chardonnay ’99, Sauvignon Blanc ’99. RED: Cabernet Sauvignon ’98, Merlot/Cabernet Franc ’98, Pinotage ’98, Shiraz ’98

The wilder side of the winelands

Clara Anna Fontein game farm has become a popular venue for weddings, functions, conferences and sleep-overs. A wine farm until 35-years ago, the old cellar stocks all Durbanville wines, and visitors can enjoy tastings and a game drive by request. Contact Justin Basson, (021) 975 7017.

Room with a view

Bloemendal Restaurant, Situated on the peak of one of Durbanville’s hills, offering breathtaking vistas of Table Mountain and the sea, and available for hire as a conference/function venue. Bloemendal offers lunch and dinner. For details, contact the restaurant at Tel (021) 975 7525.