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AKA

Published: 01 Jul 04
 
Category: Cosmopolitan
Best news is that the once renowned Granny Mouse Country House is being resuscitated by Kim and Anthony Roberts, who have brought their culinary and wine expertise f
 
rom Durban's AKA and combined it with Kim's parents' experience of B&Bs.

The décor update still has some way to go, but the sitting rooms and dining room have a very pleasant, country feel. With the removal of curtains, nature can be viewed from inside through beautiful old wooden window frames. Modern, oversized white crockery and chic sparkling glassware set off food at its best.

Choosing from the à la carte menu on a wintry evening, hearty food was on our mind. The sautéed chicken livers with Parma ham and walnuts on a toasted panini were full of the flavours of country goodness. A touch of reduced balsamic vinegar drizzled around the plate provided just the correct amount of tartness to the dish.

Something the Portuguese have apparently perfected is the combination of calamari with chorizo sausage. Well, Kim presented it on a lentil and potato rösti with a basil and garlic vinaigrette. This substantial starter will definitely be my lunch the next time I visit AKA.

Two styles of bread are brought to the table to enjoy with a herb-infused olive oil: crunchy, multigrain bread and the famous butternut bread. (The recipe has thoughtfully been included in the AKA recipe book, for sale at the hotel.)

Oxtail, venison or trout are just a few of the delicious options on the menu. Lovers of rack of lamb will find Kim's version extremely appealing. Crusted with a basil and parmesan mix, it is accompanied by roasted vegetables and wonderfully chewy gnocchi on a tomato and olive jus with the lamb done to order.

The selection of desserts includes intriguing new ideas: baked Horlicks cheesecake with honeyed crème fraîche and a silky espresso panna cotta with whole chocolate espresso beans.

The service is friendly and lightning-fast, so you may want to ask them to slow it down! The comprehensive and not unreasonably priced winelist is educational, stating winemaker and region, as well as a brief description and a food match recommendation, but let Anthony guide you in your choice. He's a wine lover and very knowledgeable.

With more scope now to create excellent food, Kim will in due course be hosting evenings with eight-course degustation menus to be enjoyed in the wine cellar among the fine collection of wines. Occasions not to be missed!

In good weather, lunches can be taken on the veranda, which overlooks the lovely valley of the winding Lion's River. Choose from salads, terrines, sandwiches and other light meals, or take a picnic basket down to the river.

Average three-course dinner: R120.

By Mechthild Yorke-Mitchell
Address: R103 (old Main Road), between Lidgetton and Balgowan. Tel 033 234 4071. Open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. BYO R25.
Food: 4
Wine list4
Ambience: 3
Service: 3
Value: 4

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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