Agter-Paarl
Agter-Paarl
What to do and where to go if you have a day - or even just a few hours - in the winelands. By Fiona McDonald.
When anyone mentions Black Pearl, images of Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow and pirates wielding cutlasses with parrots on their shoulders saying really profound things like "Aaarrr!" pop into my head - but Paarl's Black Pearl is no movie pastiche.
If you have a quest for Shiraz, head out of Cape Town on the N1, turn off onto the R44 to Wellington and you'll find some gems, including the real Black Pearl, belonging to the Nash family who bought the farm long before the Pirates of the Caribbean movie trilogy achieved smash hit status. They've been farming there since 1998 with around seven hectares under vine and most of the highly threatened renosterveld farm conserved in a biodiversity initiative.
Visits are by appointment only but it's worthwhile making that call because Mary-Lou Nash is a self-taught wine-maker who produces a concentrated Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz-driven blend called Oro. She was also a finalist in the Woman Winemaker of the Year competition in 2006.
A few kilometers further down the R44 is Crow's Nest, the spot where former North Sea diver Marcel de Reuck and wife Deidre settled down to make wine. They're open seven days a week, have a restaurant, multiple boulle courts, swings and trampolines for the kids - and jazz sessions on weekends during summer. De Reuck admits that making wine was "a schoolboy dream" when growing up in Paarl and he has to pinch himself to believe that it's been realized.
"We make six wines - Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cab, Shiraz, a blend of the two and a Rosé - but the Shiraz is definitely the flagship… the 2003 got a grand gold medal at the 2005 Michelangelo awards."
Gone are the days when co-operative cellars focused on wine production and did little to welcome visitors who took the trouble to walk through the cellar door. Last year Windmeul celebrated 60 years of production and underwent a facelift. The tasting room is warm and welcoming, with a blazing fire and comfy leather couch encouraging visitors to linger awhile.
A not-so-well-kept secret is that Windmeul offers fantastic value wines. The cellar's Chenin Blanc is usually snapped up by the caseload by those in the know - but then at around R20 a bottle that's no surprise. And the winery's Shiraz is not too shabby either. Their first bottling was in 2004 and they're currently selling it for a shade under R40 a bottle - again great value.
Turning right onto the main road into Paarl you'll find Ridgeback, named for the distinctive tawny breed of Rhodesian dog. Cathy Marshall is the consultant winemaker who has put this boutique winery on the map in the space of five years, with Shiraz, although the Viognier is also good. The tasting room is open Monday to Saturday and light lunches are offered from Wednesday to Saturday. There's a lovely deck area overlooking the dam and its multitude of ducks that is ideal in summer. In winter the fire's always going and soup is a must on the menu.
Rhebokskloof is the next stop, open seven days a week. It's a popular wedding and function venue with its restaurant and landscaped gardens. "We're streamlining the number of wines we produce," said cellarmaster Daniel Langenhoven, "in order to focus on quality." The winery's Chardonnay reserve has always been the most serious wine in the range so give that a try.
Hans and Theresa Britz look upon Under Oaks, the property they bought less than four years ago, as a little piece of heaven - and they've set about restoring buildings, opening up a bistro and an art gallery as well as replanting vineyards. At the moment they offer a Cabernet Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc and a Sauvignon Blanc, but as the new plantings come on stream the range will be extended. The view from under the oaks outside the converted barn is something special and a good incentive to settle in with a glass of wine and plate of delicious food.
The final stop is at Boland Cellar No.1 - so named because there's another Boland Cellar but that's in Paarl proper. Arched brick tunnels open into a cosy tasting room where the full range is available. Six years ago Boland surprised all by receiving top honours at the International Wine & Spirit Competition with both Cabernet and Shiraz - something blazoned on their label to this day. And you don't have to mortgage your home to buy these wines - sensibly priced and good quality.
"must try" wines
- Black Pearl ORO, a blend of Shiraz and Cab - not for the fainthearted. It's a gutsy, inky-black, fruit-driven wine with earthy tobacco flavours.
- Windmeul Chenin - the 2007 should be released soon and it's well worth stocking up with a case or two for the summer.
- Ridgeback Shiraz is consistently good. The Viognier's good too, made in a full, ripe, wooded style.
- Rhebokskloof's Reserve Chardonnay - oak and citrus galore.
Places to eat and stay
Locals in the know swear by Rhebokskloof - and the popularity of the venue for weddings says something. Under Oaks has a lovely setting in a converted barn. Décor takes the form of bright orange and yellow table napery which lend a noticeably cheerful feel to everything. A lovely place to sit and kuier over a glass of wine.
Ridgeback does salad platters in summer and hearty soups in winter while Crow's Nest guarantees a warm welcome - especially from the two ridgeback dogs...
