A visit to Robertson wine valley
TO WONDERFUL
Undeniably beautiful, the Robertson wine valley is famous for more than just its wine offerings - especially after the opening of a new deluxe hotel. Jeanri-Tine van Zyl visits.
One is inclined to wax lyrical when describing the Robertson district - incorporating the towns of Ashton, Bonnievale, McGregor and Robertson. Home to some of South Africa's best-known wineries, the valley is as much a scenic thoroughfare as it is an end destination.
The splendour starts as you exit the Huguenot Tunnel from the Du Toitskloof Pass. During the wet season, the mountain range is a scene of cascading waterfalls that feed the underlying Breede river into a torrent - a flow which eventually calms down in the fertile valley where it serves the fruit orchards and vineyards bordering the Langeberg and Sonderend Mountains.
From the pass onwards, the landscape changes dramatically. In comparison to the lush green of the winelands on the other side of the Huguenot Tunnel, the scene turns almost Karoo-like, with buchu bush and ericas growing liberally. Towards the end of August, this same veld becomes dotted with the famous Namaqua daisies and purple-flowered vygies.
The Robertson wine valley is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful parts of the Western Cape, yet you will find little pretentiousness here - not in the main town, Robertson, or the wines, and least of all in the people who make and serve them. On the contrary, the stories of attendants at tasting rooms are often quite touching, with many having "uplifted" themselves from working in the vineyard to serving and getting to grips with the final product.
A place of good intentions all round, it is hardly surprising that this valley should also be home to a donkey sanctuary where elderly and rescued animals find refuge.
Flower references dominate descriptions of this "valley of wine and roses" which is also the jacaranda capital of the Western Cape. In spring the rural landscape is a sea of white and pink orchard blossoms - a scene that is humbling in its beauty, especially when contradicted by snow-capped mountain peaks.
Agriculture remains the backbone of the area, and indeed, the only time it came under threat was in 1901, when a "Mr Robertson" claimed to have discovered gold on a farm called Keurkloof - a find which would have attracted eager prospectors and altered the area for the worse.
However, a report from the bank manager dated September 1901 reads: "As we expected, the alleged discovery of gold in the neighbourhood of Robertson has come to nothing. The specimens submitted to analysis contained pyrites only."
It is rare and valuable finds of the vinous kind which can now be found along the stretches of road leading to the numerous farms in the area. Good value for money is what you will experience at most cellars, making a trip to Robertson a must when stocking up for the holiday season.
WHERE TO STAY
Luxury travel circles are abuzz with news of recently opened The Robertson Small Hotel, the town's first and only place of lodging with all the amenities to warrant a 5-Star rating, and then some. Set on a lush suburban corner in Van Reenen Street, the blue Victorian building with its pinnacle frontier and broekie-laced veranda houses 10 rooms, all gracefully decorated by interior designer Nica Maree whose subtle creams and pigeon-grey swatches lend balance to the statement chandeliers which dominate the open-plan suites.
The premium Poolside Suites tastefully incorporate the swimming pool, with each boasting a private deck right up to the water's edge. Overlooking a garden teeming with birdsong and palms - the result of a previous owner's affection for these trees - these private enclosures are the perfect place to relax with a glass of local bubbly before strolling over to on-site restaurant Reuben's. Overseen by chef-patron Reuben Riffel from the same-name restaurant in Franschhoek, the branch at The Robertson Small Hotel serves to extend Riffel's respected reputation.
Well aware of the great expectations, executive chef Aviv Liebenberg does the Reuben's name proud: from the openview kitchen, he makes immediate eye contact and sets forth to prepare meals unmasked by culinary frills, matched by a winelist showcasing the valley. Should local produce not inspire, patrons can also indulge in wines from the Franschhoek cellar of restaurant co-owner Marc Kent, whose iconic Boekenhoutskloof labels have a surprisingly conservative mark-up.
With as much emphasis on minor details - from cutlery and tiles to doors - as on main amenities, The Robertson Small Hotel manages to address the problem which motivated its existence: do you wait for more visitors to be attracted to the town in order to validate opening a hotel of this calibre, or do you validate a hotel of this calibre because it will attract visitors? Already welcoming a steady flow of lodgers, it seems the latter, no-expense-spared approach was the way to go.
The Robertson Small Hotel, Tel 023 626 7200, www.robertsonsmallhotel.com.
ALSO: A short distance from the town of Robertson lies Rosendal Winery and Wellness Retreat, a neat guest farm which, as its name implies, gives visitors the chance to get away from the clutter and chaos of the big city. It is situated at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains, on a road that seems to slice into the berg to create a perfect spot for relaxation. Rooms open up onto a rim-flowing pool that overlooks vines and vistas, with spa treatments offered to aid further unwinding. They also stock a collection of boutique wines. Rosendal Winery and Wellness Retreat, Tel 023 626 1570, www.rosendalwinery.co.za.
When to visit Robertson has ensured a place on the annual festivity calendar with the Wacky Wine Weekend which takes place in June. All wineries participate in the event, with live music and outdoor activities included in a weekend that is boisterous and fun. The next WWW takes place from 3 to 6 June 2010 and you are advised to book your accommodation months in advance. www.wackywineweekend.com
If you are not in the mood for the loud crowds of WWW, visit in August for Robertson Slow, an event during which visitors can experience what the valley has to offer on a more intimate level. This takes place from 6 to 9 August 2010. www.robertsonslow.com
October is the ideal month to visit the Robertson Valley: the orchards are in full bloom and the temperatures are pleasant. This is when Wine on the River takes place, an open-air festival on the banks of the Breede River which caters for the whole family. For details on next year's event, see www.wineonriver.com.
Where to eat
Reuben's at The Robertson Small Hotel is the place for contemporary fine dining (see Where to Stay). Recently opened, bookings are strongly advised.
Most locals recommended Bourbon Street restaurant in Voortrekker Street for well-made comfort food such as pizzas and burgers. They also have a good winelist with finds from the area. Tel 023 626 5934.
Café Maude at Bon Courage wine farm is a favourite for light snacks matched with the farm's crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Tel 023 626 6806.
Closer to Bonnievale, Under the Vines Bistro at Weltevrede Estate is mainly a lunch venue. The pergola-shaded area outside with views of the vines and river is a lovely spot for a cheese-platter or pancake. Tel 023 616 3665, www.weltevrede.com.
Pack a picnic basket to enjoy aboard Viljoensdrift's river boat. Tel 023 615 1017.
Last but not least, everyone in town seems to incorporate a cup of coffee from Strictly Coffee into their day. Situated in Voortrekker Street, this small space with its casual interior of coffee bags and bean smells is where you will find amazing coffees, made by passionate and friendly attendants. Strictly Coffee, Tel 023 626 6691, www.strictlycoffee.co.za.
Wineries and must-visit spots
The valley is filled with wines ranging from easy-drinking to serious, and the following come personally recommended: Although the farm has raised the prices, Jacques Bruére MCC's at Bon Courage remain favourite Cap Classiques suitable for all drinking occasions. They also offer amazing valuefor- money still wines. Tel 023 626 4178.
Neighbouring Van Loveren is also famed for its well-priced wines. It's one of the few farms where you can find a single varietal Pinot Grigio. Tel 023 615 1505.
The Ashton Unwooded Chardonnay 2008 from Ashton Wine Cellar won gold at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, and the 2009 is even better, reckons winemaker Francois Bezuidenhout. Tel 023 615 1135.
For several styles of Chardonnay, make a turn to De Wetshof. Tel 023 615 1853.
Springfield Wine Estate is perhaps most famous for its mineral-driven examples of Sauvignon Blanc. Stock up on Life from Stone 2009. Tel 023 626 3661.
Graham Beck is well known for its many intriguing and well-made wines, ranging from Cap Classique to Noble Late Harvest. The Joshua, a Viognier and Shiraz blend, deserves special praise. Tel 023 626 1214.
At Weltevrede you will find a range of Brut Cap Classiques with the Philip Jonker Brut Entheos winning the Best Non- Vintage award in last month's Amorim Cork Cap Classique Challenge. Tel 023 616 2141.
Klipdrift Distillery in town offers tours, a brandy and cocktail bar and a big-screen TV for lively Saturday rugby matches. Tel 023 626 3027.
