A sense of perspective

Striving for 5

Some winemakers consider having their wine rated 3 Stars as being damned with faint praise, but there should be no doubt that this is something not easily achieved. Christian Eedes explains.

Many local winemakers struggle to hide their pique when their wines receive a rating of 3 Stars (defined as “good to very good, fine character”) from the WINE magazine panel. While the rest of us might consider such a rating a worthy achievement, the originators of our favourite beverage tend to view the fruits of their labour as nothing less than a masterpiece, and any rating less than 4 Stars (“excellent, wine of distinction”) is met with irritation and resentment, arising no doubt from hurt pride.

Self-confidence is necessary for success but not when it becomes excessive. Local winemakers need a better sense of calibration: if a Shiraz from a lesser local region, made in a poor vintage, is “without question” deserving of 4 Stars, then what rating should be accorded a Syrah from France’s renowned Hermitage appellation in a great year?

In order to demonstrate just what a respectable achievement it is to obtain a rating of 3 Stars, WINE magazine decided to review the results of all our tastings over the past five years (from October 2003 to September 2008). A total of 10 505 South African wines were reviewed, of which 42% rated 3 Stars or better. Clearly a winemaker is doing something out of the ordinary if he or she makes a 3 Star wine, and even more so if the wine is rated 4 Stars or better, with 8.7% of the wines reviewed having made the grade.

Some other interesting observations can be made. The theory that South Africa, litre for litre, makes better white than red table wines gains no support, with almost the exact same proportion of white as red rating 3 Stars or better (40.8% in the case of the former and 42.4% for the latter). However, the notion that South Africa’s best whites outshine our reds does appear to be borne out: 10 whites have rated 5 Stars compared to only five reds, while the number of whites to be rated 4½ Stars as opposed to reds is also proportionately more.

The strongest category overall is Cap Classique, with 64.3% of 293 sparkling wines rating 3 Stars or better. Rosé, on the other hand, is the weakest category, with only 8.1% of 271 wines over the threshold – proof that the growth enjoyed by Rosé recently has everything to do with lifestyle rather than intrinsic quality.

Unfortified dessert wines, fortified dessert wines and Ports have all performed well in the period under review: 54.9% of 251 wines rated 3 Stars or better in the case of the first category, 54.2% of 166 in the case of the second, and 50.7% of 267 in the case of the third – this generally high level of quality explained by the fact that these sorts of wines typically require specialist knowledge and extra dedication to make.

WINES RATED 5 STARS BY WINE MAGAZINE OVER THE PAST FIVE YEARS:

2008
Alvi’s Drift Muscat de Frontignan 2006
Hazendal The Last Straw 2005
Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2003
Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2003

2007
KWV Val du Chêne Chenin Blanc 2004
The FMC Forrester Meinert Chenin 2004
(Ken Forrester)
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 1997

2006
No wines rated 5 Stars

2005
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2002
Bredell’s Cape Vintage Reserve Port 1998
(JP Bredell)
Capaia 2003
Cape Point Semillon 2003
Fryer’s Cove Sauvignon Blanc 2005
Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Shiraz 2003
Mulderbosch Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2003

2004
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2001
De Traff ord Straw Wine 2001
Fairview Oom Pagel Semillon 2002
Kanu Wooded Chenin Blanc 2002
The FMC Forrester Meinert Chenin
2002 (Ken Forrester)