A hell of a height on the Helshoogte Pass
THE ROUTE
Along the R45 from Franschhoek to Paarl, the Helshoogte Pass is the link between the Drakenstein Valley, Simonsberg and Stellenbosch mountains. At a junction on the R45, almost bidding adieu to Franschhoek, is the turn off onto Helshoogte. Starting at this point allows for a descent from the crest of the spectacular winding pass into the valley. Many points of interest include fruit farms, Cape Dutch houses and stunning wineries, so you’ll find yourself hardpressed to decide where to stop.
The name is interesting; hell, which alludes to depths, transposed against the majestic heights of this pass. A picturesque route for a soul-searching drive, some inspirational viewing points, a fun-filled day of sourcing wines and local produce, or simply a chance to soak up some of the best of Cape winelands scenery.
THE HELSHOOGTE PASS
Literally ‘hell’s heights’ (and meaning ‘steep heights’), the pass was built in 1854 through the Jonkershoek and Simonsberg mountains and the drive reveals a transformation of these mountains along the way. In terms of history, elephants are noted as being the first to make the trek over dangerous mountains and into the shadowy valley, known as Banhoek.
Later, the peak of the pass was the lookout point for ships entering Cape Town harbour, but in 1688 French Huguenots arrived, after an offer from the Dutch East India Company to find free land. It then became known as Botmans Kop – the boatman’s head – as the sentry informed the settlers in Franschhoek about the arrival of any ships, providing the signal to transport produce down to the harbour. It is said that the shape of imposing Simonsberg or ‘Simon’s Mountain’ named after Simon van der Stel resembles the figure of Simon lying on his back.
FIRST STOP
Boschendal, a wine estate at the foot of the Groot Drakenstein mountains is home to sublime scenery, best enjoyed at its picnic spot in summer, although there is also a restaurant, café and pretty gardens. The farm enjoys a heritage that extends as far back as the Middle Ages, so take a walk through tree-lined lanes past the Le Rhone Manor House, dating back to 1812; one of the great examples of traditional Cape Dutch architecture. A cellar tour is informative, showing the unique feature of the suspended selfdraining fermentation tanks, for example (like a self-cleaning oven!).
Taphuis is the wine-tasting centre, and the exhibition vineyard of 0.29 hectares contains nine of the varieties planted on the estate. It allows for a demonstration of the characteristics of each variety under Boschendal’s unique climatic conditions, as well as the vineyard practices.
SECOND STOP
Pass the colourful and charming mountainside village of Pniel and then Kylemore. A must-visit is Hillcrest Berry Orchards, popular for breakfast jaunts with its sweeping view over the quilt-like green hues and textures of the valley. Be prepared to spend some time wandering through the well-stocked shelves, with lesser-spotted culinary complements, such as raspberry, blackberry or mead honey vinegars, tarragon Dijon mustard, cherry guava jelly, apple and kumquat jam, berry liqueurs and, in case you’re not berried-out, berry ice cream!
THIRD STOP
Next up are prominently positioned Tokara and Thelema. Tokara is worthy of a visit with its massive fireplace and even more impressive sweeping view through floor-to-ceiling glass windows onto the vineyards unfolding below. The tasting room is usually bustling and busy, if you’re after rapid and personalised service. The grapes for the wines are sourced from three areas: Stellenbosch, Elgin and Walker Bay, which then make up the wine ranges. Extra-virgin coldpressed oils are stored in small 1 000- litre tanks in an area cooled to 12°C. The deli is well-priced with a good variety, including delectable truffles.
Down the road, Thelema is smaller and more personable, which is probably one of the factors that make Tokara and Thelema a great duo at which to stop. With an equally impressive view onto the vineyards, tastings are free of charge. Wines of interest include The Mint Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, and the Sutherland range with grapes sourced from Elgin.
FINAL STOP
Delaire Graff is literally a pinnacle point. The lane to the winery, lined with a colour palette of flowers in season, gradually unravels up this majestic peak to the highest estate in the region. With a mesmerising view, it is easy to see why John and Erica Platter decided to rename the farm Delaire, meaning ‘from the sky’, in 1982. Now, while above-average in tasting price at R50, it is worth the experience; the wines are elegant, and pianists play every weekend. As the chords of music flow, it’s truly an unwinding setting, with spectacular architecture to complete the picture.
Framed by the mountains and breathtaking views over the valley, David Collins, a London-based interior designer generally known for his monotones and muted shades, has left an unusual stamp of tangerine for the restaurant décor. It is carried through to the upholstery of the seating that meanders across the restaurant floor, creating sociable dining alcoves. Outside, guests can dine on the terrace under an oaktree canopy.
The restaurant offers lunch and dinner menus with many of the dishes being baked or roasted in wood-fired ovens. The dishes change regularly, using the best ingredients available on the day, sourced from the estate’s herb and vegetable gardens. Delaire wines are well matched to complement the menu, and a sommelier is at hand to make suitable wine choices. Special food-and-wine-paired tastings are also available, and if the thought of driving home after a gourmet meal is too much to bear, there is a luxurious hotel on site.
