A corner to keep in mind: Houw Hoek Pass
THE ROUTE
Houw Hoek is one of the enigmatic Cape passes allowing for panoramic view points. Travelling along the N2 past Elgin and Grabouw, allow for side meanderings into a number of alluring places off the beaten track. Houw Hoek Pass is 340 metres above sea level and, at the pinnacle, a wide, sweeping view across the moor-like landscape is quite inspiring with its relatively unexplored terrain. If one were to draw a global analogy, it is an Africanesque sweep of land reminiscent of Welsh moorland in its immensity and stretch that seems to extend beyond the horizon.
Along the N2 at Exit 92, take the R43 turn-off to Bot River. Turning to the right goes towards destination Hermanus; to the left, Bot River. As a recommended route, a quick few kilometres to the right will take you on a sojourn to Wildekrans, a more than worthwhile stop, and turning back then leads into the small village of Bot River. And all that seems impossible of this harsh landscape becomes absolutely possible once you’ve immersed yourself in the area.
FIRST STOP: HOUW HOEK FARM STALL
Travelling from Cape Town, immediately visible on the right from the N2, be sure to stop at this farm stall for a range of goodies that indulge many of the senses and hobby interests. There is a small coffee shop and, in the deli section, a range of home-baked pies, biscuits, olive oils, vinegars, jams, fruit and vegetables fresh from the farms in Elgin Valley, as well as a nursery that grows the colourful and some of the indigenous. At the back is a wine shop, stocked with wines at cellar price, mostly sourced from the Hemel-En-Aarde Valley and Bot River. Trout fi shing is also available for those into their leisure activities.
Stock up on some unique produce and enjoy that ambience of being on the road and taking a brief pause at somewhere special: an ‘aperitif’ to wine routing. Tel 028 284 9015; www.houwhoekfarmstall.co.za
SECOND STOP: WILDEKRANS
A lengthy dirt road leads to the cellar against a seemingly isolated, untouched setting. New vineyards are being planted along this stretch, most likely Merlot, but the operating vineyards lie to the back, in the heart of the valley. The straw-coloured fields are typical of African savannah veld; but this is of course Cape terrain with semi-Karoo characteristics. The wines are an expression of the unique cool-climate terroir, with vineyards on gently sloping hills overlooking Walker Bay.
The tasting room has a hushed, outof- the-way ambience, but the pourer is full of warmth and enthusiasm about the wines. All are superb. Of note are the Chenins, both the standard range (R45) and the Osiris, a range which includes the barrel-fermented Chenin (R122) and a special barrel-fermented Pinotage (R125), made from free-run juices and matured in a combination of French and American oak barrels for 18 months. The label is interesting: an Egyptian god of agriculture, reigning supreme.
The Wildekrans MCC is made from Chenin Blanc juices produced by wholebunch pressing and was sold out at the time of visiting. The Shiraz (R75) with pepper and spice and a touch of the bos will remind you of your visit when you decide to open it up at home. Tel 028.284.9902; www.wildekrans.com
As well as Wildekrans Country House, nine old cottages on the Wildekrans estate have been renovated and are now available as self-catering getaways, situated between a vineyard and a plum orchard on the banks of the Bot River (rates are between R1 000 and R1 350 per cottage depending on size. Tel 084 228 2824).
THIRD STOP: BEAUMONT WINERY
It is hard to identify the one absolute mustsee element of the family run Beaumont Winery. With a charm that flows through from something done close to the heart, the Chenin resonates with its region. Beaumont aims to produce a consistent style of what it calls the “straight Chenin” (R60). Slow cold fermentation in stainless-steel and concrete tanks with post-fermentation lees contact is used.
There is also the Raoul ‘lifestyle’ wine range, named after the father of the farm. Raoul, who was a maverick of both vineyards and motorcycles, has brought about Raoul’s Old Basket Press Shiraz Rosé 2010 (R50), a “wine of fresh charm and soft delights” from his favourite vineyards – an excellent aperitif or lunchtime wine. On the label, the Old Basket Press name is carried through with an old-world style in its calligraphy.
Sebastian, the twinkly eyed winemaker and Raoul’s son, is particularly enigmatic when he speaks about the wines and elaborates on the background of the old basket presses on the farm. They will be the next project of hobby-engineer Andy Selfe, who plans to renovate them into working condition during the coming months.
Andy’s love of renovating machinery began with the farm’s old mill. Built in 1904, it is once again in full working order with the wonderful abandon of creaking sounds that pulleys and levers make to keep the mill grinding wheat into wholesome flour for bread with flavour. It is fascinating how the age-old concepts of some 100 years ago are coming back into awareness, with a willingness to replicate these within our time. Sebastian says that his family, in days gone by, remembers many of the village dwellers arriving to have their grain ground by the mill.
It is a Vitruvian mill, hence the name of the wine Vitruvian 2006 (R260) described as: “a blend of the best and most interesting portions of red grapes from the farm.Mourvedre represents the centre and the energy of this wine - the guts. Pinotage from old vines is the backbone and the structure; not dark and heavy but rather light and dry. Shiraz is the muscle that holds it all together and adds the right amount of flexibility. Cabernet Franc is the mystery, the emotion, the changing element that adds lightness and freshness."
Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2010 (R145), named after this generation's grandmother, has always been made to express the purity of the grape, with the first vintage in 1997. Only fruit selected from the oldest Chenin Blanc vineyard, planted in 1978, is used for this wine. Barrel fermentation takes place in 400. French oak using only natural yeasts. A lovely food wine that promises ageing ability.
Goutte d'Or 2007 (R115) Noble Late Harvest consists of 66% Semillon and 34% Sauvignon Blanc botrytis grapes. It pairs beautifully with the farm's homebaked biscotti.
Wife of Sebastian, Nici, also produces a range of interesting accompaniments as part of her catering company Zest (see Foodie Finds on page 18). Tel 028 284 9194; www.beaumont.co.za
FOURTH STOP: THE SHUNTIN' SHED
Out of Beaumont Winery, turn right and immediately left before the railway line. Here is a little piece of '60s history just dying to be appreciated in the same manner as the current owners. Music from the 1960s echoes out of the entrance of what is the converted original railway station. And inside is a caboose of note, with chairs and vinyl booths in a green that reminds one of old-fashioned bankers’ lamps and has been kept true to form of a train cabin back in the day.
Sit outside on the deck overlooking the town of Bot River and enjoy a pizza that is supremely satisfying after a merry wine tasting, going back to basics with moreishness; there is little to beat a simple margherita pizza with buffalo mozzarella, freshly picked tomatoes and fragrant basil. The restaurant is also renowned for ribs and slow-cooked pork roast on a Sunday. Wines complement the rustic and backto- the-good-earth feel, with a small but well-selected range, including Barton from the surrounding area. Tel 028 284 9443; www.theshuntinshed.co.za
FIFTH STOP: FEITEIRAS
If you have time on your hands, also worthy of a visit is Feiteiras (tastings by appointment only), where you can view one of the few working pole basket presses in South Africa and taste the estate’s Verdelho 2009, a trophy winner at the Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show 2010.
