The Wine Advocate’s Neal Martin on the way forward for South Africa
Neal Martin, critic-at-large for eRobertParker.com was one of the international judges at this year’s Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show, facilitating his first trip to the country. He relates that the reaction among peers back in the UK where he is based, on learning that he was to visit for the first time, was either one of sympathy or derisive laughter.
Martin started Wine-journal.com as an independent website in 2003 to offer commentary on Bordeaux “for people who didn’t go to Oxford University and listen to Wagner at night but rather were into Radiohead”. Three years later, he got a call from influential US critic Parker requesting his penmanship, so unexpected that he initially thought it was a prank. Needless to say he took the gig, his responsibilities now including being the South African reviewer for Parker’s bimonthly publication The Wine Advocate.
“South African wines didn’t feature much in the Advocate until now because Parker simply couldn’t dedicate the time but there’s a realisation that they’ve improved radically over the past 10 years [and consequently are now worthy of coverage].”
Whatever the reality on the ground regarding quality advances, clearly there are some negative perceptions among Martin’s followers that need addressing. “Frankly, I fulfil a gate-keeper role. I have a sense that for every great South African producer, somebody else is churning out sub-standard product”.
Martin feels that South African wine has got “issues”, whether in broad terms such as the apartheid legacy or specifically such as the continuing struggle of producers to deal with leaf-roll virus. Essentially, however, he feels that developed country wine enthusiasts have been exposed to “too many poor South African wines” and suggests that a more concerted effort must be made to get the right wines through to consumers at all levels of the market. Particularly helpful would be fine wines made in suitable volume that quickly develop a track record. “What South Africa needs is 5 000 cases of something selling for between £20 and £50 a bottle that is followed year in and year out”.
Martin’s visit to South Africa has reinforced the notion in his mind that South Africa has much better wines on offer than it is generally given credit for. How far off a 98-100 point wine is the country? “You’ve already done it,” is Martin’s reply, referring to a Zonnebloem Cabernet Sauvignon 1959, shown at a tasting of older wines before Trophy Wine Show commenced in earnest. “This proves South African wine can age well and not simply survive.”
A Lanzerac Pinotage 1961 in the same line-up is termed “gorgeous” and Martin suggests that if South Africa really wants to change perceptions of its capabilities, then these are the wines that should be shown to the world. It is pointed out to him that very little of such wines remain. “You only have to do it once. Get a few key opinion leaders in one room to experience these wines and they’ll never look at South Africa the same way again”.
For more by Christian Eedes, visit www.whatIdranklastnight.co.za
