2009 SurePure Chenin Blanc Challenge

Local winemakers show confidence across a spectrum of styles when it comes to Chenin Blanc. Christian Eedes reports on the annual blind tasting of this category.

Though the Chenin Blanc Challenge has been running since 1996, it was only last year that judges were formally tasked with identifying both the best unwooded and wooded wines from the line-up. This was motivated by the Chenin Blanc Association as part of a longterm strategy aimed at making manifest the wide stylistic variance that wines from Chenin can show.

Out of the 15 wines to rate 4 Stars or better in this yearfs SurePure WINE magazine Chenin Blanc Challenge, five of them were unwooded, including the overall winner, Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008.

If anybody was inclined to think that the most highly rated wines were inevitably going to be barrel matured (by virtue of the extra maturity thus attained), then the result of this yearfs Challenge gives cause to think again.

As has been the case over the past few years, the panel was very much appreciative of the broad stylistic spectrum on show, with winemakers rejecting the formulaic in favour of confident and imaginative offerings. Everything from dry and elegant through to sweet, rich and full was on display. In fact, there were so many legitimate but divergent expressions around that the uninitiated might be baffled – more work for producers and media alike to do in communicating whatfs what!

That Chenin Blanc is such a healthy category can hardly be said to be the result of careful planning. Though it remains South Africafs most widely planted grape, comprising 18.8% of the national vineyard, this has declined dramatically from 1987 when it made up 32.7%.

Prior to the 1990s, Chenin had been widely planted as a workhorse grape, but with the restructuring of the industry that occurred after political transformation, many growers abandoned it, fearing that it lacked commercial viability.

This was to overlook the common assertion that old vines produce grapes that make better quality vines. A few far-thinking producers persisted with the variety and as the resulting wines started to attract more and more critical acclaim, uprootings slowed. Today 38.9% of Chenin plantings are over 20 years in age, making it the variety with by far the oldest proportion of old vines, and it is hoped that as many old vineyards remain in the ground as possible. The case rests with the observation that the winning Mooiplaas wine comes from grapes grown in a 36-year old vineyard.

JUDGING PROCEDURES

There were 121 entries in total. These were tasted blind by the five-person panel, with scoring done according to the 20 point/5 Star system.

After this first round of judging was concluded, 21 wines emerged as having particular distinction and these went through to a second round where the panel could give them more detailed examination.

Once this round was completed, there were two wines tied for first place, both possessing the same arithmetic average score, these being be the Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008 and Bellingham The Maverick 2006.

Of the five judges, two scored the former higher and two the latter, while the fifth judge, namely Christine Rudman CWM, scored them exactly the same. This left her with the casting vote, and she decided on the Mooiplaas wine as the ultimate winner.

BEST VALUE CHENIN BLANC – TOP 10 WINES ON PRICE
Wines rated 3 Stars or better and recommended for
particularly good value on the basis of their
quality/price ratio in the context of the average price
per bottle:

1. Koelenbosch Wood Matured 2007 (Kodenhof) 4 Stars R25
2. Du Toitskloof 2008 3 Stars R21
3. Riebeek 2008 3 Stars R22
4. Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Bush Vines 2008 4 Stars R30
5. Mooiplaas Bushvine 2008 4½ Stars R37.50
6. Backsberg 2008 3 Stars R27
7. Tukulu 2008 4 Stars R38
8. Indalo 2008 (Swartland) 3½ Stars R34
9. Hazendal Bushvine 2006 4 Stars R39
10. Eikendal 2007 4 Stars R39.50

ARE YOU GETTING WHAT YOU PAY FOR?
Average price per 750ml of the 121 Chenin Blanc
wines assessed: R51
Average price per 750ml of the 15 wines rated 4 to 4½ Stars: R62
Average price per 750ml of the 35 wines rated 3 to 3½ Stars: R57
Average price per 750ml of the 71 wines rated less than 3 Stars: R45

Awards

Best Value Chenin Blanc
Koelenbosch Houtverouderd 2007
Best Unwooded Chenin Blanc
Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008
Best Wooded Chenin Blanc
Bellingham The Maverick 2006
Best Chenin Blanc Overall
Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008


FOUR AND A HALF STARS
Mooiplaas Bush Vine 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R37.50
Alc 14.11% RS 2.2g/l pH 3.63 TA 6.9g/l
Complex nose showing lime, potpourri and honey. Very
pure on the palate. Juicy, ripe fruit matched by
lively acidity. Long, dry finish. Drink now or
over the next 3 years.
CE 16 JP 17.5 CR 17 AL 17 CvZ 16.5

Bellingham The Maverick 2006 *◆
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R115
Alc 14.37% RS 7.0g/l pH 3.23 TA 7.16g/l
Forthcoming bouquet of tropical fruit,toasty oak and
some leesy character. Rich and full in the mouth but
balanced by fresh acidity. Layers of
flavour: dried apricot, honey, spice. Very
expressive. Drink now or over the next 3 years.
CE 18 JP 16 CR 17 AL 16 CvZ 17

FOUR STARS
Koelenbosch Houtverouderd Chenin Blanc 2007*◆
Alc 14.2% RS 2.3g/l pH 3.47 TA 6.4g/l
Oxidative nose with notes of honey and wax. Rich and
ripe on the palate with flavours of peach and
citrus. Tangy acidity and creamy texture. Drink
now or over the next 3 years.
CE 15 JP 16.5 CR 16 AL 14 CvZ 17

Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection
Bush Vines 2008*
CELLAR PRICE: R30
Alc 14% RS 3.6g/l pH 3.74 TA 6.5g/l
Tropical fruit and honey on the nose. The palate is
intensely flavoured with good weight. Tangy
acidity lends balance. Drink now or over
the next 3 years.
CE 15.5 JP 15.5 CR 16.5 AL 16 CvZ 15.5

Tukulu 2008◆
APPROXIMATE RETAIL PRICE: R38
Alc 13.36% RS 2.83g/l pH 3.54 TA 6.17g/l
Complex nose shows lime, floral perfume and some
waxiness. Palate shows great purity and focus. Juicy
fruit balanced by fresh acidity. Long, dry finish.
Drink now or over the next 2 years.
CE 19 JP 16 CR 15.5 AL 15.5 CvZ 16

Hazendal Bushvine 2006
CELLAR PRICE: R39
Alc 13.5% RS 1.7g/l pH 3.2 TA 6.1g/l
Forthcoming nose of tropical fruit and some leesy
character. The palate is rich and textured.
Flavours of dried apricot, honey, spice. Tangy
acidity. Drink now or over the next year.
CE 17 JP 16 CR 16 AL 16 CvZ 17.5

Eikendal 2007*◆
CELLAR PRICE: R39.50
Alc 13.49% RS 5.9g/l pH 3.74 TA 5.0g/l
Honey on the nose. Rich and sweet on the palate.
Creamy texture. Lively acidity lends balance.
Drink now.
CE 16 JP 15 CR 16.5 AL 14.5 CvZ 18

Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Select Cuvée 2007
CELLAR PRICE: R40
Alc 14.5% RS 8.0g/l pH 3.46 TA 6.7g/l
Dried apricot and tropical fruit on the nose. Sweet,
rich and ripe on the palate. Good texture,
tangy acidity. Drink now or in 3 years.
CE 16 JP 15.5 CR 16 AL 15.5 CvZ 16

Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE: R50
Alc 14.5% RS 7.3g/l pH 3.19 TA 6.9g/l
The nose shows tropical fruit, honey and a hint of
oak. The palate is rich and full bodied. Oak
prominent but also lots of concentrated fruit and
tangy acidity. Drink now or over the next 3 years.
CE 16 JP 16 CR 18 AL 15.5 CvZ 15

Deetlefs Chenin Blanc 2008
CELLAR PRICE: R54
Alc 14.08% RS 2.35 g/l pH 3.45 TA 6.27g/l
Hint of floral perfume on otherwise shy nose. The
palate is clean and pure with juicy fruit and zesty
acidity. Drink now or over the next 3 years.
CE 16 JP 17 CR 15.5 AL 15 CvZ 15.5

Welbedacht Bushvine Barrel Fermented 2005*◆
PICK N PAY PRICE: R55
Alc 14% RS 2.1g/l pH 3.3 TA 5.7g/l
The nose shows ripe fruit, honey and some leesy, waxy
character. The palate is broad and
oxidative. Very expressive: flavours of apple,
citrus, spice and freshly baked bread. Drink now or
over the next year.
CE 16.5 JP 15 CR 16.5 AL 18.5 CvZ 16

Graham Beck Bowed Head 2008◆
CELLAR PRICE: R95
Alc 13.62% RS 5.21g/l pH 3.41 TA 6.57g/l
Tropical fruit, honey and spice on the nose and
palate. Layers of flavour. Intense but balanced.
Oak well handled. Touch of sweetness
counterbalanced by fresh acidity. Drink now or
over the next 3 years.
CE 16 JP 18.5 CR 15.5 AL 14.5 CvZ 15

Rudera 2004◆
CELLAR PRICE: R95
Alc 14% RS 5.5g/l pH 3.02 TA 9.0g/l
Leesy, almost vegetal quality to the nose. The palate
is complex with flavours of lime and honey
and some nuttiness. Good line of acidity –
suggests wine will benefit from further bottle
maturation. Finishes dry and savoury.
Drink now or over the next 2 years.
CE 15.5 JP 16.5 CR 16 AL 15 CvZ 17

De Morgenzon 2007◆
CELLAR PRICE: R110
Alc 14% RS 4.9g/l pH 3.16 TA 0.8g/l
The nose shows citrus fruit and toasty oak. The
palate is weighty and powerful. Flavours of lime,
honey and spice. Some sweetness but balanced by fresh
acidity. Still youthful – keep for 1 to 3 years.
CE 15.5 JP 16 CR 16 AL 15.5 CvZ 16.5

Bellingham The Bernard Series Old Vine 2007◆
Alc 14.9% RS 10.6g/l pH 3.81 TA7.06g/l
Enticing toasty oak and strong lime notes on the
nose. The palate is rich, full and textured. Very
ripe fruit, lots of oak, tangy acidity.
Extravagant style. Drink in 1 to 4 years.
CE 15.5 JP 16.5 CR 17 AL 16.5 CVZ 15 

THREE AND A HALF STARS
Hazendal Bushvine 2007 R39
Katbakkies 2005◆ ARP R62.50
Indalo 2008 (Swartland)◆ R34

THREE STARS
Du Toitskloof 2008* R21
Riebeek 2008* R22
Backsberg 2008* R27
Ken Forrester Petit 2007* R30
&Sons)* R30
Lyngrove Collection 2008* ARP R31
Fortress Hill 2007 (Fort Simon) R35
Fish Hoek 2008 (Constellation)* R35
Pecan Stream 2008 (Waterford)* R35
Boschendal 2008 R40
Nederburg The Winemaster’s Reserve 2008◆ R42
Kanu 2007* R43
Fleur du Cap 2008◆ R43
Kanu 2008* R43
False Bay 2008 (Waterkloof)* ARP R44
Rickety Bridge 2008* R45
Onderkloof Schapenberg Single Vineyard 2007 R45
Tokara Zondernaam 2007*◆ R50
Virgin Earth 2006 (Havana Hills)* ARP R50
Hildenbrand Single Vineyard 2007◆ R52
&Sons)*◆ R55
Ken Forrester 2007*◆ R55
Villiera Cellardoor 2007◆ R60
Anura 2007◆ R60
Katbakkies 2006◆ ARP R62.50
Bosman 2007 R65
Kanu KCB 2006◆ R82
Simonsig Chenin Avec Chêne 2007◆ R89
Rudera Robusto 2007◆ R95
De Morgenzon 2006◆ R100
De Trafford 2008 R120
The FMC R240
Forrester Meinert Chenin 2007◆

TWO AND A HALF STARS
Welmoed 2008* R18.50
Nuy 2008 R19.58
Windmeul 2008 R21.50
Stellenbosch Hills 2008* R25.99
KWV Steen 2008 R26
White River 2008 (Bergsig) R26.50
Babylon’s Peak Dryland Bushvines 2008* R30
Villiera 2008◆ R30
Ondine 2008 (Ormonde) R30
Rietvallei 2008* R30
Knorhoek 2008* R33
Riebeek Reserve 2008◆ R34
MAN Bushvine 2008* ARP R34.95
Arniston Bay Reserve 2008 (the company of wine
people) R39.50
Laibach 2008* R40
Nederburg The Winemaster’s Reserve 2007◆ R42
Beaumont 2008* R45
Fort Simon 2007◆ R47
Mulderbosch Steen op Hout 2008◆ R59
Katbakkies 2007◆ ARP R62.50
Jordan Barrel Fermented 2007◆ R64.50
AMW 2008 (Andy Mitchell Wines)*◆ R65
Waarburg Barrel Matured 2007◆ ARP R68.44
Diemersfontein Carpe Diem 2008◆ R69
Morgenhof 2008◆ R75
Rijk’s Barrel Fermented 2007◆ R90
Rijk’s Reserve 2007◆ R90
Rudera 2007◆ R95
Spier Private Collection 2007* ARP R96
L’Avenir Icon 2007*◆ R150
Mulderbosch Smallchange 2008◆ R200

TWO STARS
Swartland 2008 R19
Groot Eiland 2008 R19.80
Balance 2008 (Overhex)* R19.95
Slanghoek Private Selection 2008* R21
Birdfield 2008 (Klawer) R22
Alexanderfontein 2008 (Ormonde)* R24
Landzicht 2008 R25
Five’s Reserve 2008 (Van Loveren)* R27
Golden Kaan 2008* R29
Simonsig 2007 R29
Simonsig 2008* R29
DC Arum Fields 2007 (Darling Cellars)*◆ R30
Lula Chenin Blanc 2008 (500ml) (Rudera)* R30
Windmeul Reserve 2008◆ R30
Conradie Single Vineyard 2008 R30
Knorhoek 2006* R33
Knorhoek 2007* R33
Wildekrans 2008* R34
Nelson’s Creek 2008* R35
Overgaauw 2008* R37
Remhoogte Block No 6 2008* ◆ R42
Avondale 2008* R44
Hazendal Wooded 2006◆ R45
Raka 2008◆ R45
Graham Beck Gamekeeper’s Reserve 2008*◆ R49
L’Avenir 2007* R50
Cederberg 2008* R55
Môreson 2008 R55
Mont Destin 2007 R60
Tierhoek 2007◆ R65
Rickety Bridge R68
Paulina’s Reserve 2008*◆
Ken Forrester 2004◆ R80 

ONE STAR
De Wet 2008 R15
Lookout Ridge 2008 (Major’s Hill) ARP R22
Rijckbosch 2008 (Mountain River) ARP R26
Ukuzala Wooded 2008 (Mountain River) ARP R26
Hawksmoor at Matjieskuil 2008* R29.50
Windmeul Reserve Barrel Fermented 2007◆ R30
Ken Forrester Petit 2008* R30
Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection 2007◆ R50

PRICES: wines in each quality grouping are listed in order of ascending price – all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

ARP Approximate retail price
* Bottled under screwcap
◆ Wooded

WINE TASTERS: editor of WINE magazine Christian Eedes
(chair) (CE), Wine Tasting Academy graduate
James Pietersen (JP), wine writer Angela
Lloyd (AL), Cape Wine Master Christine
Rudman (CR) and Master of Wine Cathy van Zyl (CvZ).