2003 Whites, 1998 Reds

A review of older wines suggests the South African wine industry is still on a steep learning curve. Christian Eedes reports.

The annual WINE magazine review of five year old whites and 10-year old reds serves a number of purposes: firstly, it allows the conventional wisdom concerning the merits of a particular vintage to be reconsidered; secondly, it’s a gauge of just how well our best wines perform over time; and thirdly, developments in the country’s general state of winemaking can be tracked.

This year there were 20 whites from the 2003 vintage and 43 reds from the 1998 vintage under review. According to Platter’s South African Wine Guide 2008, the 2003 vintage was “(o)utstanding” while 1998 was an “(e)xcellent red vintage, enough fruit for extended cellaring”. While Platter’s verdict appears spot on regarding 2003, measured against the results of this tasting, the merits of 1998 seem to have been exaggerated.

The 2003 vintage was long and cool, making for unhurried ripening of the grapes. Our tasting of the whites reinforced the idea that South Africa is increasingly capable of worldclass whites that are able to improve with time in bottle.

Five years after harvest, both Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc and Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc proved worthy of WINE magazine’s ultimate accolade of 5 Stars.

Cape Point Semillon fell just short with 4½ Stars, panel member and MW Cathy van Zyl detecting a whiff of garlic on the nose, which she explained was a sign of excessive oxidation and the first sign of the wine’s decline. Rustenberg’s ultra-premium Chardonnay also seems to be developing with benefit, rating 4 Stars now compared to 3 Stars in June 2006.

While 60% of the line-up rated 3½ Stars or better in the case of the five-year-old whites, only 42% of the 10-year-old reds managed the same. Back in the 1990s, phenolic ripeness as a determinant of when to pick grapes (as opposed to relying solely on the pH level of the grapes) was a relatively new idea. When the hot 1998 vintage came along after the wet 1996 and the cool 1997, winemakers could not resist a move to riper grapes, resulting in wines that were more fruit-driven and higher in alcohol by volume.

For all the excitement that these wines generated on release, the panel felt that overall they now showed somewhat clumsy winemaking. The panel detected some winemaking faults such as bacterial spoilage and volatile acidity, but the most severe criticism was that the wines still appeared excessively green and lacked fruit weight.

To illustrate the point, consider the following list of wines, all of which rated 5 Stars in Platter’s on release but are not nearly as impressive now (current ratings in brackets): Kanonkop Pinotage (3 Stars), Morgenhof Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (3 Stars), Rust en Vrede (2½ Stars), Saxenburg Shiraz Select (3½ Stars), Stellenzicht Syrah (2½ Stars) and Vergelegen (3½ Stars). On this basis, those who bought and cellared these wines are entitled to be disappointed.
As panel chairman Michael Fridjhon observed: “The gold (medal) of today is a bronze in 10 year’s time. The bar is raised over time...”

Panel member Cathy van Zyl MW added that the higher quality of whites relative to reds in this tasting showed just how much experience local winemakers gained in the period between 1998 and 2003.

For all that, there were a few reds that can be said to have rewarded investment, first among these being Kanonkop Paul Sauer which rated 4½ Stars now (5 Stars in Platter’s 2001, 5 Stars in WINE, September 2001) and Boekenhoutskloof Cabernet Sauvignon which rated 4 Stars now (5 Stars in Platter’s 2001, 4 Stars in WINE, December 2000).

Special mention must also be made of Grangehurst. Winemaker Jeremy Walker has always insisted that he makes wines for the long haul and this tasting seems to bear this out: two of his wines improved on their earlier rating in WINE magazine with his Pinotage blend Nikela moving from 2½ Stars to 4 Stars and his Pinotage from 2½ Stars to 3½ Stars, while his Grangehurst Cape Winemakers Guild Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon retained its original rating of 4 Stars.

Saxenburg Private Collection Shiraz remains in great nick, outperforming its more expensive stablemate Saxenburg Shiraz Select of the same vintage in this tasting, and proving once again that winemaker Nico van der Merwe is a dab hand with this variety. The Morgenhof Merlot (down to 4 Stars from its original rating of 4½ Stars) impressed as a particularly refined example from a variety that often doesn’t make for great single-variety wines under local conditions.

Chenin Blanc

FIVE STAR
Ken Forrester
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2004
Nose shows thatch, honeycomb and apples.
Palate is complex and textured: good fruit
expression and fresh acid.
Very good length.

FOUR STAR
Rijk’s Barrel Fermented
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005
Ripe tropical fruit and some waxiness on
nose. Rich and full on the palate with layers
of flavour: apple, peaches and honey.
Long dry finish.

THREE AND A HALF STAR
Bellingham The Maverick
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005

The FMC Forrester Meinert Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005

THREE STAR
Cederberg V Generations
Previous rating:
2 Stars in WINE,
June 2005

De Trafford
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
February 2004
Corked

Mulderbosch Steen op Hout
Previous rating: 4 Stars in WINE,
February 2005

Chardonnay

FOUR STAR
<Rustenberg Five Soldiers
*Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
June 2005
Nose shows lemon and lime, blossom and
appealing bottle-aged character. Palate is still
fresh with citrus fruit and well-judged oak.
Some yeasty character.

THREE AND A HALF STAR
Glen Carlou Reserve
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
February 2004

THREE STAR
Hamilton Russell
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
March 2004

Mulderbosch Barrel Fermented
Previous rating:
5 Stars in WINE,
June 2005

Simonsig Reserve
Not previously rated in WINE

TWO STAR
Jordan Nine Yards Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
November 2004

Semillon

FOUR AND A HALF STAR
Cape Point
Previous rating:
5 Stars in WINE,
June 2005
Forthcoming grassy, green pepper nose
Intensely flavoured on palate with herbal
notes and some spice. Good texture and
bright acid. An elegant, poised wine.

THREE AND A HALF STAR
Constantia Uitsig*
Previous rating:
1 Star in WINE,
November 2004

Rijk’s Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
November 2004

Steenberg
Previous rating:
4½ Stars in WINE,
June 2004

TWO AND A HALF STAR
Stellenzicht Reserve
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
November 2006

Sauvignon Blanc

FIVE STAR
Steenberg
Previous rating:
4½ Stars in WINE,
June 2004
Complex nose showing herbal notes,
asparagus and fig. Rich and full on palate
with juicy fruit and lively acid. Still youthful.

THREE STAR
Cape Point
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
May 2004

Pinot Noir

THREE STAR
Bouchard Finlayson
CIWG Auction Reserve
Not previously rated in WINE

THREE STAR
Bouchard Finlayson Galpin Peak
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
December 1999

Hamilton Russell
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
December 1999

Merlot

FOUR STAR
Morgenhof
Previous rating:
4½ Stars in WINE,
December 2000
Red fruit on nose and palate. Medium bodied
and elegant.
Fresh acid and fine tannins.
Long dry finish.

THREE STAR
Saxenburg Private Collection
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
October 2000

TWO AND A HALF STAR
De Trafford
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
March 2000

Meerlust
Previous rating:
2 Stars in WINE,
October 2002

TWO STAR
Thelema
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
March 2001

Cabernet Sauvignon

FOUR STAR
Boekenhoutskloof
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
December 2000
A fragrant nose with dark berries and violets.
Good fruit expression, fresh acid, fine tannins.
Has weight and texture.
Long dry finish.

Grangehurst CWG Reserve
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
April 2001
Fragrant nose showing dark fruit, some
herbal notes and coffee. Palate is rich and
full-bodied. Dark fruit matched by somewhat
grippy tannins and fresh acid.

THREE AND A HALF STAR
De Trafford
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
April 2001

Thelema
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
April 2001

THREE STAR
Kanonkop
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
June 2002

Morgenhof
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
December 2000

Neil Ellis
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
April 2001

Rustenberg Peter Barlow
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
January 2001

Vergelegen
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
December 2000

TWO STAR
Delaire Botmaskop
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
April 2001

Corked
Saxenburg Private Collection
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
April 2001

Bordeaux-style red blends

FOUR AND A HALF STAR
Kanonkop Paul Sauer
Previous rating:
5 Stars in WINE,
September 2001
Cassis and hint of vanilla on nose. Full and
balanced on palate with juicy dark fruit and
fine tannins.
Excellent length.

THREE AND A HALF STAR
Beyerskloof
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
January 2001

Glen Carlou Grand Classique
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
September 2000

Grangehurst
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
June 2001

Vergelegen Cabernet Franc
Merlot
Previous rating:
not previously rated
Vergelegen Red
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
December 2000

THREE STAR
Overgaauw Tria Corda
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
September 2001

TWO STAR
Meerlust Rubicon
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
September 2002
Morgenhof Première Sélection
(magnum)
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
June 2002

TWO STAR
Simonsig Tiara
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2001

Red blends (Shiraz based or Pinotage component)

FOUR STAR
Grangehurst Nikela
Previous rating:
2½ Stars in WINE,
October 2000
Cassis, cherries, mint and hint of leather on
nose. Palate shows juicy fruit and fine tannins.
Also herbs and fruits.
Finishes dry.

THREE STAR
Simonsig Frans Malan
Reserve
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
February 2001

TWO AND A HALF STAR
Rust en Vrede Estate
Previous rating:
3 Stars in WINE,
April 2001

Shiraz

FOUR STAR
Saxenburg Private Collection
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
October 2000
Dark fruit, pepper and some floral notes
on nose. Palate is medium-bodied with red
fruit, pepper and bright acid.

THREE STAR
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah
Previous rating:
2 Stars in WINE,
December 2000

Saxenburg Shiraz Select
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
October 2000

Simonsig Merindol Syrah
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
February 2001

THREE STAR
Kevin Arnold Shiraz
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
May 1999

Boland Shiraz
Not previously rated in WINE

Stellenzicht Syrah
Previous rating:
4½ Stars in WINE
May 2001
Pinotage


Grangehurst Pinotage
THREE STAR
Previous rating: 2½ Stars in WINE, November 2001
Kanonkop Pinotage
Previous rating:
4 Stars in WINE,
Aug 2000

Neethlingshof Lord Neethling
Pinotage
Previous rating:
4½ Stars in WINE,
May 2001

ONE STAR
Simonsig Redhill Pinotage
Previous rating:
3½ Stars in WINE,
May 2001

PRICES: Wines in each star category are
listed in order of ascending price –
all ex-cellar unless otherwise stipulated.

* Bottled under screwcap

Wine tasters: Wine writer Michael
Fridjhon (chairman), WINE magazine
deputy editor Christian Eedes, Vilafonté
winemaker and international wine consultant
Zelma Long, Master of Wine Cathy van
Zyl and Tasting Academy graduate James
Pietersen.