1886
Published: 01 Apr 05
Category: Contemporary
It takes its name from the year that Johannesburg was founded as a mining settlement which is incongruous as this evokes images of gentlemen's clubs, dark furniture and he
avy drapes.
Wrong. This is a high-concept restaurant for the new millennium. It's as far away from the Rand Club as Pavarotti is from hip-hop star Pitch Black Afro. Think Tretchikoff on speed and Afro-chic taken to the limit!
It's black, it's gilt, it's jaw-dropping but somehow it's totally Jozi. It is brash and glamorous and definitely a night restaurant but somehow it's put together so well that it saved itself from being dubbed gaudy.
Study it for a while and you'll see the tributes to the people and cultures who turned a dusty mining camp into a thriving metropolis. It is also pumping with both atmosphere and affluent customers living the African dream.
When our party of four arrived the restaurant staff initially couldn't find our booking and later discovered that it had been made for a week ahead so a table had to be squashed into a corner as the weather wasn't conducive to eating outside.
We soon discovered that both the food and service were sometimes hit and miss affairs - sometimes very good but also mediocre. Our champagne cocktails arrived immediately but later in the evening it took nearly 25 minutes and plenty of pleading to get a bottle of red wine for the table.
The food is as eclectic as the décor and reflects Joburg's melting pot culture. It's an exciting menu to peruse with plenty of African and Asian influences with a large Afro Sushi Menu on offer.
Quite what "afro sushi" is I'm not sure. There's no pap or samp used in the place of rice and there is the traditional sushi and sashimi and the now ubiquitous fashion sandwiches. The menu does feature yuppie maki with smoked salmon and cream cheese for those who don't do their fish raw.
Springbok fillet with sweet potatoes lives happily with oysters, caviar and lemon sorbet as well as Asian stir-fry.
The buffalo mozzarella (the real McCoy or, in this instance, the real Khumalo) served with sweet roasted pumpkin on a marinated leek salad with a verjuice dressing was a real hit but the fresh mussels in a Moët and Chandon cream sauce were somewhat bland and could have done with more liquid.
The Scottish salmon with honey, soy and sesame and wasabi mash was excellent as was the gourmet burger. The roasted duck was slightly tough. Portions are on the small side.
The wine list is comprehensive but as with most Johannesburg restaurants wine mark-ups are on the high side. The venue also specialises in cocktails and martinis.
1886 certainly has the look, what it now needs to concentrate on is the substance.
Average three-course meal: R150.
It takes its name from the year that Johannesburg was founded as a mining settlement which is incongruous as this evokes images of gentlemen's clubs, dark furniture and he
Wrong. This is a high-concept restaurant for the new millennium. It's as far away from the Rand Club as Pavarotti is from hip-hop star Pitch Black Afro. Think Tretchikoff on speed and Afro-chic taken to the limit!
It's black, it's gilt, it's jaw-dropping but somehow it's totally Jozi. It is brash and glamorous and definitely a night restaurant but somehow it's put together so well that it saved itself from being dubbed gaudy.
Study it for a while and you'll see the tributes to the people and cultures who turned a dusty mining camp into a thriving metropolis. It is also pumping with both atmosphere and affluent customers living the African dream.
When our party of four arrived the restaurant staff initially couldn't find our booking and later discovered that it had been made for a week ahead so a table had to be squashed into a corner as the weather wasn't conducive to eating outside.
We soon discovered that both the food and service were sometimes hit and miss affairs - sometimes very good but also mediocre. Our champagne cocktails arrived immediately but later in the evening it took nearly 25 minutes and plenty of pleading to get a bottle of red wine for the table.
The food is as eclectic as the décor and reflects Joburg's melting pot culture. It's an exciting menu to peruse with plenty of African and Asian influences with a large Afro Sushi Menu on offer.
Quite what "afro sushi" is I'm not sure. There's no pap or samp used in the place of rice and there is the traditional sushi and sashimi and the now ubiquitous fashion sandwiches. The menu does feature yuppie maki with smoked salmon and cream cheese for those who don't do their fish raw.
Springbok fillet with sweet potatoes lives happily with oysters, caviar and lemon sorbet as well as Asian stir-fry.
The buffalo mozzarella (the real McCoy or, in this instance, the real Khumalo) served with sweet roasted pumpkin on a marinated leek salad with a verjuice dressing was a real hit but the fresh mussels in a Moët and Chandon cream sauce were somewhat bland and could have done with more liquid.
The Scottish salmon with honey, soy and sesame and wasabi mash was excellent as was the gourmet burger. The roasted duck was slightly tough. Portions are on the small side.
The wine list is comprehensive but as with most Johannesburg restaurants wine mark-ups are on the high side. The venue also specialises in cocktails and martinis.
1886 certainly has the look, what it now needs to concentrate on is the substance.
Average three-course meal: R150.
By Janine Walker
Address: 1886 Shop 8, 24 Central, Cnr Fredman Drive and Gwen Lane in Sandton. Tel 011 884 8240. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. BYO only on wines not stocked, R40 for wine and R80 for champagne.
Food: 3
Wine list3
Ambience: 4
Service: 2
Value: 3
